Sigma and Foveon resource (usage tips) and information thread.

One thing I'm curious about in regards my new DP3M is lens hoods. It appears to have the same mounting system as the other lenses but I have yet to see a hood listed anywhere?
 
First use....

First use....

Keith mentioned "I think it's reasonably important because the Merrils in particular are not a camera you can just pick up and use and instantly get great results. I was quite disappointed in mine initially." To overcome that potential disappointment, how would you advise someone who is completely new to the camera to proceed in the first few days of using it? Thanks for your insights ...
 
Here is what I did .. Fwiw.

Here is what I did .. Fwiw.

After reading about all the negatives about the dp series way before I bought my dp2m, one thing I decided to do was to initially concentrate on still objects to get the hang of the camera and to test out what it could do and what it couldn't.

One thing I immediately noticed, was that for me the camera is actually too light. When I press on the shutter release, I noticed that there was not enough mass to dampen it... So I would need to either add mass or figure out a different way to release the shutter than I normally do or up my shutter speed way higher then normal.

In the end I adding mass. I use a real right stuff hand grip which has a bottom plate for their qr system as well. This added enough mass for me that I did not have to change my normal shutter release technique...

I only use a tripod around 10% of the time, so for me to enjoy the dp series, I needed to find a way to shoot handheld.

I also figured out what was optimal f stop and lowest shooting speed I could use.

Experimented --> shooting in all sorts of situation to c what worked for me and what did not. From this information, I also started programming the c1 to c3 user configuration to make life easy for myselfI.

From my experience w/ other cameras one of the first things I did was to put my rollei 40 ovf on my dp2m to,handle issues w/ bright sunlight and for issues associated w/ steadying the camera when u need to shoot low shutter speed (3 point hold, breath control, stnace, smooth shutter release --> all things u learn when shooting Kodachrome 25 or panatomic x).

So I was not expecting to get any great pictures until I went thru this process.

Gary
 
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I forgot to mention...

I was initially shooting between 100-400.. But after all the experimentation, I found that good color up to iso 320. U can push it to 800, really is grey zone. The monochrom can go as high as 3200 using the blue color wheel technique. Thus here are my current c1 to c3 settings that I use for both the dp1 and 2 Merrill's.

C1 - zone/scale/hyper focal mode, check distance scale and setup zone accordingly
-- mid size raw
-- monochrom mode
-- manual focus
-- auto iso to 3200
-- aperture priority
-- dp1 fstop f11, dp2m f16
C2 - my default setup
-- large raw
-- auto iso up to 3200
-- aperture priority
-- fstop set at f4
-- af single
-- monochrom mode
C3 - good color
-- large raw
-- auto iso up to 320
-- aperture priority
-- std color
-- fstop at f8
-- autofocus single

For the non-custom modes, PASM, it uses C3 as base but
- fixed iso at 640

Gary
 
conyon said:
Keith mentioned "I think it's reasonably important because the Merrils in particular are not a camera you can just pick up and use and instantly get great results. I was quite disappointed in mine initially." To overcome that potential disappointment, how would you advise someone who is completely new to the camera to proceed in the first few days of using it? Thanks for your insights ...
Click to expand...


Keep your expectations reasonable and as said by burancap 'slow down!'

Don't worry about the battery life, write speed, slow AF etc and just concentrate on learning the menus and settings that suit your style and importantly, master and understand SPP.

Two months down the track I feel I have 'finally' learned how to get the best from my DP2M and now regard it as the most rewarding digital camera I've ever used. Keeping in mind that I have a D700 and two Zeiss primes in the cupboard!
 
No problem.. Canyon and evilgeniusdan.. As everyone contributes to this thread, it will be a good base of learning for everyone.

Gary
 
Dp3m

Dp3m

I know some have had sharpness issues w/ the dp3m. I was thinking about my comment about being too light. Since these cameras have no image stabilization like a p&s, any slight movement at the time of shutter release is really going to be magnified especially when using LCD in conjunction w/ that 50f2.8 lens.. For the dp3m, u may need to add both weight and a higher than normal shutter release then normal for u? Or do u use it on a tripod? Those w/ dp3m can u comment?

Gary
 
A simple fix for the hot shoe ... most finders you put into them don't fit very snuggly at all and tend to wobble around a fair bit.

There's a spring clip in there that's reasonably easy to get out ... you lift the centre of it with a very fine screwdriver and slide it backwards out of the shoe. Once out you will see that it has two springy rails, one on either side and these are angled upwards slightly with a right angle tag on the end. Carefully angle the rails up a bit further and then put a slight kink halfway along them ... in other word bend those rails back down slightly from about half away along their length. Refit the clip (easy) and you'll find that it now holds things a lot more snuggly by significantly increasing the upward pressure on them. 🙂
 
I fashioned a lenshood for my DP3m from the plastic top of a spray can. It fits the bayonet mount nicely and is reversible like the original. Costs next to nothing and only a few minutes of diy time

David
 
conyon said:
Keith mentioned "I think it's reasonably important because the Merrils in particular are not a camera you can just pick up and use and instantly get great results. I was quite disappointed in mine initially." To overcome that potential disappointment, how would you advise someone who is completely new to the camera to proceed in the first few days of using it? Thanks for your insights ...
Click to expand...

To start, keep the ISO at 100 and use auto white balance for outdoor shots and indoor shots with lighting from the outside. Use spot focusing to autofocus on the part of the scene that most interests you. AND use a tripod! I also adjust EV to -0.3. With experience, you learn when you can afford to deviate from these parameters.

I find that if I think and plan each shot, the photo goes well. If I stop thinking, the results are awful. This platform is not very forgiving.

That is one of the reasons I like the Sigma Merrills. They force me to think and slow down. Their slow response also helps (oddly enough). I view each shot as precious so I take each one more seriously. As a result, I have more keepers with the Sigma Merrills than any other camera system I have used to date (both film and digital).

And don't forget the high ISO capabilities of Sigma Merrill photos adjusted to black and white in SPP. I learned that from a previous thread here at RFF. Not only does this enhance the breadth of capabilities of these cameras, it also helps you to better understand how the foveon sensors work.
 
This thread is really helpful. I'd really like to get a DP but at the same time, I'm a bit boggled by the workflow. It seems that SPP is not really difficult, but slow. I haven't used a post processing app like Lightroom or Aperture or others (suggestions welcome!), I'm a bit apprehensive, yet still quite interested. Slow is fine, just not quite sure how to get started. Which is best and clearest for someone new to the process?

The work posted by the DP cameras is incredible. The monochrome's are deep, rich - haven't seen any digital that renders in this way. So, it is worth the work. Suggestions appreciated!

Many thanks,
Darya
 
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