Sigma and Foveon resource (usage tips) and information thread.

darya151 said:
This thread is really helpful. I'd really like to get a DP but at the same time, I'm a bit boggled by the workflow. It seems that SPP is not really difficult, but slow. I haven't used a post processing app like Lightroom or Aperture or others (suggestions welcome!), I'm a bit apprehensive, yet still quite interested. Slow is fine, just not quite sure how to get started. Which is best and clearest for someone new to the process?

The work posted by the DP cameras is incredible. The monochrome's are deep, rich - haven't seen any digital that renders in this way. So, it is worth the work. Suggestions appreciated!

Many thanks,
Darya
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I bought ACDSee Pro 6 for about ninety dollars from memory and it's all I use aside from SPP. It's realtively easy to learn (LR does my head in) and the interface is extremely good IMO. There's none of this import export bullsh!t it just opens whatever files/folders you want to work on.

I've been using their software for about ten years now and can't praise it enough for what it can do and how much it costs. I recently downloaded a trial version of capture one pro which I messed around with for about a day then went straight back to my favourite. 🙂
 
One thing u could do is to download some raw files from the web.. Even if they are the small ones, at least u can play w/ them and c how the to create a work flow that would make sense to u before u buy a camera.

Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sigma+raw+file+download&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari

I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.

Gary
 
GaryLH said:
One thing u could do is to download some raw files from the web.. Even if they are the small ones, at least u can play w/ them and c how the to create a work flow that would make sense to u before u buy a camera.

Here is a google search w/ some hits to same raw file downloads.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sigma+raw+file+download&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari

I think the hard part really is figuring out a work flow...once u decide that the foveon sensor is for u.

Gary
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One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee. 😀

Foveon workflow is unusual! 😛
 
Keith said:
One of the things that drove me mad was the time SPP takes to open a raw image then move to the next when reviewing what you've shot ... and I didn't want to set the camera to shoot raw and jpeg. I seldom come home with more than forty images and once they're open in SPP I set it to batch create me a set of jpegs while I go off and make a coffee. 😀

Foveon workflow is unusual! 😛
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Couldn't agree more. But I think people need to figure out some basics first before they start doing batch operations.

I find a lot of stuff can be run thru the batch processing engine, but there are some that need some tender care thru spp.

Gary
 
GaryLH said:
Couldn't agree more. But I think people need to figure out some basics first before they start doing batch operations.

I find a lot of stuff can be run thru the batch processing engine, but there are some that need some tender care thru spp.

Gary
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Definitely ... once I've flitted through the jpegs to decide which are keepers I go back and deal with the selected raw files on an individual basis before converting them to 16 bit TIFFS.

Do we love our Sigmas or what! 😀 (everybody cheer)
 
spp noise reduction and sharpness

spp noise reduction and sharpness

in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.

after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.

i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.
 
GaryLH said:
I know some have had sharpness issues w/ the dp3m. I was thinking about my comment about being too light. Since these cameras have no image stabilization like a p&s, any slight movement at the time of shutter release is really going to be magnified especially when using LCD in conjunction w/ that 50f2.8 lens.. For the dp3m, u may need to add both weight and a higher than normal shutter release then normal for u? Or do u use it on a tripod? Those w/ dp3m can u comment?

Gary
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Gary,
In my experience, the DP3m is the sharpest of the three DPxm cameras. But all of them are incredibly sharp. I try to always use a tripod with these cameras. Not so necessary with the SDIm and an image stabilized lens (as expected).
 
dfatty said:
in processing some high iso (1600+) black and white using the blue channel method, i was surprised to find in converting some raws to tiffs, the tiffs were much less sharp than i was seeing in SPP.

after playing around a bit, it all came down to the noise reduction. by default the luminance and banding settings are in the middle, which was enough to greatly reduce the sharpness when converting to tiff. i'm aware that NR can reduce sharpness, but it was much more than i expected at the middle setting. setting NR to the lowest level brought back the sharpness. at the expense of noise of course.

i haven't figured out if this is specific to the blue channel files or if i'm doing something else wrong, but i haven't noticed this much loss of sharpness with color files. just thought i'd post in case someone else encounters this while processing and freaks out. it certainly freaked me out that the dp2m output suddenty looked ordinary, lol.
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I export from SPP with noise reduction and banding at the minimum setting when using this method based on blue channel priority. The default setting is quite destructive to a file that doesn't need it IMO.

I noticed that 'saved settings' seem to ignore this area and automatically defaults back to the middle setting. (annoying)
 
From 1600 on down I use minus 2 for both noise settings.. I also start using the blue channel starting at 1600 though. By 3200, I will starting using the noise settings at their default value.. It seems the longer the exposure time, the more u need to depend on the blue channel game once u get into 1600 and above.

Gary
 
GaryLH said:
From 1600 on down I use minus 2 for both noise settings.. I also start using the blue channel starting at 1600 though. By 3200, I will starting using the noise settings at their default value.. It seems the longer the exposure time, the more u need to depend on the blue channel game once u get into 1600 and above.

Gary
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When you use the loop you realise that the sensor actually produces quite a lot of noise at ISO 400. The difference when you use the blue channel even at this ISO is quite marked!
 
Keith said:
When you use the loop you realise that the sensor actually produces quite a lot of noise at ISO 400. The difference when you use the blue channel even at this ISO is quite marked!
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I actually have not noticed significant noise at 400 when shooting b&w... color is a different issue.. i tend to use the default noise setting by 400 if i am shooting color. Guess I am not looking hard enough.

back on topic, b&w... But starting at 800 I do notice it. So far I have been ok w/ what I have seen when shooting b&w. I rather have more tonal quality.. And good sharpness and live w/ the noise. But by 1600, the noise is getting to me..

Gary
 
Keith and Gary, thanks so much for your help and guidance! I am still wrestling with a purchase of a DP; your advice is sound, I am going to try the suggestions! For all the frustration some have voiced about the Sigma cameras, this forum has initiated experimentation, creativity, engagement with artistry and process, sharing resources.
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
 
Great thread, just watched the SPP video 🙂 Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.

Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.

Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?

http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camera/sun_g/sun6952512500643

It's around $95 USD, too much?

On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.

While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .

Thx
 
It looks like a variation on the real right stuff L bracket and grip that I use w/ my dp Merrill cameras. The main difference is the bottom plate on the rrs goes all the way across vs the half plate that is showing on the web page.

http://reallyrightstuff.com/Items.aspx?code=BodySigmaDP&key=cat

I guess I would wonder about any imbalance related issues when u lay down the camera on a flat surface.

I find that for me these cameras are tooo light and I don't really want to completely change my shutter release technique. So I went w/ more mass to dampen the shutter release cycle. I also found that the rrs grip placed my finger at a better location for a bit softer release stroke. I would think the longer the lens the more this can become an issue.

Gary
 
darya151 said:
Keith and Gary, thanks so much for your help and guidance! I am still wrestling with a purchase of a DP; your advice is sound, I am going to try the suggestions! For all the frustration some have voiced about the Sigma cameras, this forum has initiated experimentation, creativity, engagement with artistry and process, sharing resources.
Thanks for welcoming others in.
Darya
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The more the merrier 😀. We all learn from one another.

Gary
 
mingkookoo said:
Great thread, just watched the SPP video 🙂 Thx guys for all the info, still need to go through them little by little.

Questions for Dp3m users: I've been out shoot with it 3 times twice on tripod and once without. I can't get any sharp images under 1/125 due to my shaky hands unless I lean my back on a pole or something.

Saw this hand grip /tripod mount combo just now, do you guys think it would help at all?

http://oriental-hobbies.com/fs/camera/sun_g/sun6952512500643

It's around $95 USD, too much?

On tripod with MF, half press shuttle and turn the lens with auto image magnification pop up is really useful.

While selecting focus point, turning the shutter dial can change the focus bracket size is useful at times .

Thx
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It looks pretty good for the price IMO and probably worth a try ... if it doesn't work out I'll give you fifty dollars for it! 😀

Composing with an LCD on a camera with this focal length is a recipe for disaster in poor light IMO and I use an accessory viewfinder so I can brace the camera against my head in situations where hand held is the only option. The finder I use is one of the old variable Leitz type that has parralax adjustment so I can get the framing extremely accurate with practise.

I have the overpowering desire to get out and use the DP3M today and it's raining cats and dogs! 😛
 
@ Gary: Thx for your info. You are so right, the sigma is pretty light . If it is more hefty I'm sure it would make it more steady with the longer focal length.

The product looks very similar to the RRS's. By the way do you have a Pic of your merrills with the RRS setup?

thx
 
Sigma SD1m w/ 50f1.4 alongside my DP1m and DP2m

_DSF1338.jpg


Gary
 
They look quite nice on the DpMerrills. At the moment I can't afford to get the RRS setup though 🙁

If someone decided to try the less expensive similar grip from Japan I would love to hear about their experience with it.

By the way Gary, lovely Foveon trio you have and thanks for the pic 🙂
 
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