kshapero
South Florida Man
Which do you prefer and why? Don't try to talk me out of a filter as I am too paranoid to shot without one.
rlouzan
Well-known
Hi,
Some manufacturers like Leica don't recommend the use of Skylight 1A or 1B filters on their lenses, since they can change color transmission (e.g. slide film).
Whatever you do, avoid cheap filters.
Regards,
Robert
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Some manufacturers like Leica don't recommend the use of Skylight 1A or 1B filters on their lenses, since they can change color transmission (e.g. slide film).
Whatever you do, avoid cheap filters.
Regards,
Robert
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
FS: Hand Made Leather Camera Straps
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/phot...2/limit/recent
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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david.elliott
Well-known
I prefer b+w clear filters.
Bruin
Noktonian
What are you shooting? (Slide, digital, etc.)
The effect of skylight filters is hard to see on color negs. Some digital cameras have weak UV filters on the sensor and would benefit from a true UV cut filter. UV filters are also good to have at high altitudes, where the sky doesn't disperse it as much.
People will tell you that the lens elements and even regular window glass filters UV. This is true to some extent, though they don't filter out the longer wavelengths (most UV filters don't either). Hoya UV(O) HMC, Marumi L390, Contax L39 MC, and Kenko Zeta L41 are good ones with a 390nm or longer cutoff. All of these have excellent coatings as well.
IMHO, if you're gonna buy a UV filter, get one that works better than your lens does!
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test_Introduction.html
The effect of skylight filters is hard to see on color negs. Some digital cameras have weak UV filters on the sensor and would benefit from a true UV cut filter. UV filters are also good to have at high altitudes, where the sky doesn't disperse it as much.
People will tell you that the lens elements and even regular window glass filters UV. This is true to some extent, though they don't filter out the longer wavelengths (most UV filters don't either). Hoya UV(O) HMC, Marumi L390, Contax L39 MC, and Kenko Zeta L41 are good ones with a 390nm or longer cutoff. All of these have excellent coatings as well.
IMHO, if you're gonna buy a UV filter, get one that works better than your lens does!
http://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test_Introduction.html
estudleon
Member
Somebody told me at differen forums that the UV filters help to avoid the CA in the image.
I follow thinking that any filter will affect the IQ, in the worst way.
The UV has minimun effect in slide film, because, like was said before, the glass of the lens and the glue avoid the UV transmission.
To portect the lens (old use in photographers of the 50's and 60's), the lens shade is better than the filtar, and add to it the benefict of stop the light falling over the lens.
The pola filter is another history.
I follow thinking that any filter will affect the IQ, in the worst way.
The UV has minimun effect in slide film, because, like was said before, the glass of the lens and the glue avoid the UV transmission.
To portect the lens (old use in photographers of the 50's and 60's), the lens shade is better than the filtar, and add to it the benefict of stop the light falling over the lens.
The pola filter is another history.
ferider
Veteran
I have used UV and Skylight filters pretty much interchangably, Akiva. On color Skylight generates a bit warmer tones.
However, these days, on B+W, I use yellow filters almost all the time. Except speed loss, there is really no drawback, only advantages, IMO. And it really makes a difference for both landscapes and portraits. In the rare occasion that I need the full lens speed, I take the yellow filter off and shoot "naked". This is mostly in-doors, anyways.
Roland.
However, these days, on B+W, I use yellow filters almost all the time. Except speed loss, there is really no drawback, only advantages, IMO. And it really makes a difference for both landscapes and portraits. In the rare occasion that I need the full lens speed, I take the yellow filter off and shoot "naked". This is mostly in-doors, anyways.
Roland.
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david.elliott
Well-known
Roland,
What are the advantages of using a yellow filter? For landscapes you get better contrast in the sky right? And for portraits better skin tones? Anything I am missing?
What are the advantages of using a yellow filter? For landscapes you get better contrast in the sky right? And for portraits better skin tones? Anything I am missing?
kshapero
South Florida Man
That's is about where I have landed.
ferider
Veteran
Correct, sky comes out more natural, and skin-tone is more flattering. Here's a typical, high contrast people scene with yellow filter (on Tmax/Rodinal):
Was a bit surprised myself about the glow on the guys hat ... veiling flare in my 35/2 v3, I assume.
Prest_400
Multiformat
I use Skylight. Shooting color, specially slide, it helps a little bit warming up those bluish colors when overcast or in shade.
Have UV, and, well, it does nothing special. Just some glass in front of the lens. Though, I regret having spent $ on those. I could have bought something else.
I agree that a lens hood might be more beneficial. Only downside is the added bulk, unless you want rubber ones, that don't protect.
Unless you get on some situations like sand, sea or kits that want to stick their fingers on the lens, I'd go for a metal hood. Cheaper and it helps with flare.
I should get one of those as well.
Have UV, and, well, it does nothing special. Just some glass in front of the lens. Though, I regret having spent $ on those. I could have bought something else.
I agree that a lens hood might be more beneficial. Only downside is the added bulk, unless you want rubber ones, that don't protect.
Unless you get on some situations like sand, sea or kits that want to stick their fingers on the lens, I'd go for a metal hood. Cheaper and it helps with flare.
I should get one of those as well.
david.elliott
Well-known
Thanks Roland!