Damian
Yes. Have some.
Hey there all. I've only posted a few times, but this forum is wonderful. I try to do as much research as I can before I ask a question that has been asked 30 times over. With that in mind, I've managed to CLA a QL17, an GSN, an Isolette, and I just cleaned up a beautiful Konica S2 Auto.
It seems to be in terrific shape. The slow speeds were sticking. A gently shake would cause the gears to turn bit by bit until the shutter finally closed. A couple of flushes and that problem seems to be amended. One of the wires connecting to the metering cell on the nameplate came off and I had to resolder it. That may have been my fault opening the lens, but it wasn't a big deal. Now, there seems to be two problems that I need some help with:
First and foremost - The meter needle is reacting very slowly to move towards the wide open end of exposure. In fact, if I cover the cell completely, it could take a couple of MINUTES for the needle to get past 1.8 where the shutter won't release. It seems to be perfectly responsive towards f16. For a battery, I'm using a #675 hearing aid cell with a ring of foil around it. The battery check button moves the needle no problem. Any ideas about adjustment for this? I don't want to just start turning screws.
Secondly, the shutter ring can be very difficult to turn. Sometimes its relatively easy, other times not. When I reassembled the lens, I am fairly sure I put it back together correctly. I even managed to figure out how to replace the fiddly little metal strip that causes the shutter to click at each stop. Is there something I should lube with regards to the rings turning? I know that lubrication seems to be the devil, so I've stayed away from it thus far.
Thanks in advance for any help.
It seems to be in terrific shape. The slow speeds were sticking. A gently shake would cause the gears to turn bit by bit until the shutter finally closed. A couple of flushes and that problem seems to be amended. One of the wires connecting to the metering cell on the nameplate came off and I had to resolder it. That may have been my fault opening the lens, but it wasn't a big deal. Now, there seems to be two problems that I need some help with:
First and foremost - The meter needle is reacting very slowly to move towards the wide open end of exposure. In fact, if I cover the cell completely, it could take a couple of MINUTES for the needle to get past 1.8 where the shutter won't release. It seems to be perfectly responsive towards f16. For a battery, I'm using a #675 hearing aid cell with a ring of foil around it. The battery check button moves the needle no problem. Any ideas about adjustment for this? I don't want to just start turning screws.
Secondly, the shutter ring can be very difficult to turn. Sometimes its relatively easy, other times not. When I reassembled the lens, I am fairly sure I put it back together correctly. I even managed to figure out how to replace the fiddly little metal strip that causes the shutter to click at each stop. Is there something I should lube with regards to the rings turning? I know that lubrication seems to be the devil, so I've stayed away from it thus far.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I would be worried that the CDS cell is going bad. They lose responsivity at the low-end.
Do a search on Konica S2 repair on the forum. I know the shutter ring problem has been mentioned. Mine loosened up after some flood cleaning with isopropynal alchohol. But another member posted a repair of a common problem on the ring.
Kim, G'Man?
Do a search on Konica S2 repair on the forum. I know the shutter ring problem has been mentioned. Mine loosened up after some flood cleaning with isopropynal alchohol. But another member posted a repair of a common problem on the ring.
Kim, G'Man?
Damian
Yes. Have some.
Brian Sweeney said:
Thanks Brian. That would make me sad. This camera is gorgeous otherwise.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Hi,
The shutter ring sounds like you haven't quite got everything lined up when you put it back on. I would take the front off and try again. As to the meter problem, I can't think of an answer off the top of my head.If the meter needle is working correctly on the battery check, it is unlikely to be the meter. One problem might be corrosion or a dirty contact on the meter/battery check changeover switch within the battery compartment. If you have a meter, remove the bottom plate and check the voltages on the output wires. If it isn't this, you may have caused some heat damage to the cell when soldering. They can be quite sensitive.
Kim
The shutter ring sounds like you haven't quite got everything lined up when you put it back on. I would take the front off and try again. As to the meter problem, I can't think of an answer off the top of my head.If the meter needle is working correctly on the battery check, it is unlikely to be the meter. One problem might be corrosion or a dirty contact on the meter/battery check changeover switch within the battery compartment. If you have a meter, remove the bottom plate and check the voltages on the output wires. If it isn't this, you may have caused some heat damage to the cell when soldering. They can be quite sensitive.
Kim
Damian
Yes. Have some.
Kim Coxon said:
Thank you Kim. I'll pull off the bottom plate and throw my multimeter on it. I'm assuming I should be seeing roughly 1.4 volts? I hope I didn't cause any damage to the cell itself. The soldering took place where the wire from the lens barrel meets the wire from the diaphram 'eye' if that makes sense. I thought the cell was behind this eye, but I don't know for sure. The wires meet on a piece of brown circuit board it looks like, but I thought that board was simply a holding area for the soldering joints.
Damian
Yes. Have some.
greyhoundman said:
Well that's good. I assumed right about that board. I probably didn't do any heat damage, as the soldering only took about 20 seconds. I'll check the wiring under the bottom plate, and if I don't have any luck finding a problem, I'll seek out a parts C35. Do you have any instructions for calibrating the meter? I assume there's a set screw of some sort under the top plate.
P
pshinkaw
Guest
I have a partially cannibalized Auto S2. The cell and the Sekonic meter movement are still there. PM if you find that you need it.
-Paul
-Paul
Damian
Yes. Have some.
pshinkaw said:
Thanks! I'll have a look at the wiring, and I'll see if I find something. If not, I may take you up on it.
Damian
Yes. Have some.
Ok - I've finally had time to look at this guy. I opened up the front of the lens, and after blacking out the CdS cell with tape, a voltmeter to the two wires leading to the cell read about 1.33V. That's good. With a light pointed at the wide-open CdS, the voltage drops to ~.8V. Probably fine as well. I'm guessing that since my needle does not want to get up to the f1.8 mark and the CdS is not offering battery resistance when completely dark, that my cell is ok.
Does anyone (Greyhoundman?) have a little more detailed instructions on adjusting the meter resistor?
Does anyone (Greyhoundman?) have a little more detailed instructions on adjusting the meter resistor?
IK13
Established
Got to resurrect this thread...
Just CLAd an S2. This camera had been taken care of, it was pretty good to start with.
Still - replaced light seals, fixed front lens barrel wobble and partially not working self-timer, cleaned the vf/rf, even did the Schottky diode fix for silver oxide batteries.
It is in great shape now...except for the meter. Camera does not have, and as far as I can tell have not ever had, any corrosion. Took apart the battery compartment - clean as a whistle. No corrosion on the wires connecting to the name plate either. Good connecting points.
Battery check moves the needle quickly to the check mark, but otherwise the meter takes ages to settle on a reading (and often it simply fails to do so).
Weirdly enough - it seems that I can make the meter go up by "pumping" the shutter release button.
I wonder if Damian ever solved his problem?
Just CLAd an S2. This camera had been taken care of, it was pretty good to start with.
Still - replaced light seals, fixed front lens barrel wobble and partially not working self-timer, cleaned the vf/rf, even did the Schottky diode fix for silver oxide batteries.
It is in great shape now...except for the meter. Camera does not have, and as far as I can tell have not ever had, any corrosion. Took apart the battery compartment - clean as a whistle. No corrosion on the wires connecting to the name plate either. Good connecting points.
Battery check moves the needle quickly to the check mark, but otherwise the meter takes ages to settle on a reading (and often it simply fails to do so).
Weirdly enough - it seems that I can make the meter go up by "pumping" the shutter release button.
I wonder if Damian ever solved his problem?
Kim Coxon
Moderator
A common problem on the S2 is the meter/batt test switch withinn the battery holder. It tends to make good contact when the button is pressed but does not make good contact with the meter circuit when it is released. To cure the problem, you have to take the battery holder apart and clean the contacts.
Kim
Kim
IK13 said:Got to resurrect this thread...
Just CLAd an S2. This camera had been taken care of, it was pretty good to start with.
Still - replaced light seals, fixed front lens barrel wobble and partially not working self-timer, cleaned the vf/rf, even did the Schottky diode fix for silver oxide batteries.
It is in great shape now...except for the meter. Camera does not have, and as far as I can tell have not ever had, any corrosion. Took apart the battery compartment - clean as a whistle. No corrosion on the wires connecting to the name plate either. Good connecting points.
Battery check moves the needle quickly to the check mark, but otherwise the meter takes ages to settle on a reading (and often it simply fails to do so).
Weirdly enough - it seems that I can make the meter go up by "pumping" the shutter release button.
I wonder if Damian ever solved his problem?
IK13
Established
Kim Coxon said:
I did that, Kim. I saw what you're talking about and I wondered the same thing - it didn't strike me as being an example of good engineering. But everything was absolutely perfect.
The problem appears to be elsewhere....silly, silly me...
I stayed up all night fixing the camera and was checking the light meter pointing it against lamps etc. ...while we all know that these CdS cells get less then stellar in low light as they age... :bang:
Today, I went outside and the meter on my silver-oxide adjusted S2 matched almost perfectly the readings I was getting from my Fuji F30!
Since I plan to use the S2 in good light only - I'm happy!
Incidentally - my infinity is a hair off. How do I get to the adjustment screw(s) on the S2? By looking at the cold shoe plate I don't see how to slide the cover...
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Lift the front of the plate slightly using a very small screwdriver or similar and then the plate will come off bacwards. This is for the vertical screw. For infinity you will have to adjust the horizontal screw which is behind the cover in the bottom right hand vorner of the rear finder cover. I must admit I tend to take the whole cover off as I find it easier.
Kim
Kim
IK13 said:
IK13
Established
Thanks. I think you're right - lifting the cover might be easier.