Slower shutter speeds - normal?

JRJacobs

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I have noticed with my GS that with the slower shutter speeds (i.e. 1 sec or more exposure times) you have to hold the shutter button down the whole time during the exposure until you hear the shutter close. It may be true of any exposure speed, but that I only notice it during the slow ones. At any rate, is this normal operation? Other cameras I have owned operate where you just have to depress the button quickly, regardless of exposure time.
 
I think you may need to talk to G'man. I had the same thing on my GS. The POD was shot. But don't worry, it isn't expensive to get your GS working correctly again. Just curious, are your batteries dying also? I recomend you send a PM or email to Greyhoundman. I promise you won't be disappointed. My GS is operating like new. Check this picture out. This was 2 photos taken at different moments and stitched together. NO adjustments were made. the camera nailed the exposure on both shots to were you can't tell were one starts and the other ends.
 

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Hi

I had the same question about my Minolta Hi-Matic F but then it turned out that it was supposed to be that way, it even says so in the manual. That may be the case with your camera too. So look into that before you start disassembling the camera.

Berk


JRJacobs said:
I have noticed with my GS that with the slower shutter speeds (i.e. 1 sec or more exposure times) you have to hold the shutter button down the whole time during the exposure until you hear the shutter close. It may be true of any exposure speed, but that I only notice it during the slow ones. At any rate, is this normal operation? Other cameras I have owned operate where you just have to depress the button quickly, regardless of exposure time.
 
Nope, the POD is fine because I just replaced it.
Before I did the camera behaved very strangely - now it seems very good.

Seems like it is normal operation - I'm getting very accurate exposures.
My testing is to go into a fairly dark room and set the camera to f/16 in "auto" mode with ISO 25.
This will cause the camera to take a longer exposure (at least 3 secs). When doing this, I find I have to hold the shutter button down the entire time. I just want to make sure this is normal that you have to hold the shutter button down the entire time. Maybe someone else could test and check for me?

Thanks!
 
I don't understand that either. What if you're using a tripod and the self timer? This means the only way you could do the long timed out exposures in "auto" mode on a tripod is to use a lock down cable release or stand there and hold the shutter button down. Just doesn't make sence. I haven't had my GS get anywhere close to the 30 seconds exposure time that it's supposed to be able to do. I think 8 or 10 second is the lonest it has stayed opened in auto mode so far. Maybe it's because I haven't been holding the button down? It's hard for me to tell when the darn shutter closes it's so quiet. With my Nikon FE I just look through the finder and when the mirror flips back up it's finished. I have another question about the long exposure capability in Auto mode. When my FEs shutter opens the exposure time is already "locked in". The shutter stays opened for the entire cycle no matter if the lighting changes. I've heard the OLY OM cameras aren't that way. If the lighting changes while the shutter is opened the camera reacts to the change. Does anyone know about the Yashicas? Sorry, I'm not trying to hi-jack your thread.
 
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Nearsighted said:
I don't understand that either. What if you're using a tripod and the self timer? This means the only way you could do the long timed out exposures in "auto" mode on a tripod is to use a lock down cable release or stand there and hold the shutter button down. Just doesn't make sence.

Exactly. If I use the self-timer, I push the shutter button down, and then flip the "lock" lever - this does work. Is this the same way they all work?

I saw this on another forum:Forum thread

Talks about the same issue, and claims this is normal operation......
 
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I've never tried used the lock lever to lock the shutter button down so I don't know. Learn something new every day. I thought the lock lever was only for keeping the shutter button from pre-mature ejerkulating. Thanks for the link. An interesting read.
 
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That little clunk that happens when you wind the camera had me concerned when I got my camera back. I thought something was wrong with it. It didn't do that before I sent it off for servicing. But after a little research I found out it's supposed to do that. Weird. A near silent shutter but a noisy winder. I really like this camera and it's affordable, even with the make-over. I think it's a better low light hand held camera than my Bessa R with the 50/1.5 Nocton because of the leaf shutter. No vibration what so ever. My opinion only.
 
Could someone with a known working camera possibly check this for me?
Try setting the ISO very low (i.e. 25 or so), and then with the camera in "auto" set the aperture to f/16 and then take an exposure while indoors. This should cause a longish exposure. With mine I have to hold down the button for the duration of the exposure, until I hear the shutter close - otherwise it will close whenever I let up on the button.

I am ready to open my camera again if mine is not normal, but I hope some other kind person could check this for me first so I can be sure that something is amiss with mine. As I stated earlier, I am getting accurate exposures.

Thanks!
 
Your GS is working the same as mine. I too have to hold the shutter button down for longish exposures. The tip you gave me on using the shutter lock button along with the self-timer is what I'm going to try next time I'm shooting at dark-thirty. I wasn't looking forward to bringing along a locking cable release. My exposures also have been spot on.
 
I just asked someone in the know. He confirmed that this is normal for this camera. The shutter button must be held down (by whatever means) untill the electronics on the camera close the shutter.
 
Thanks alot for checking that! So I guess it is a good idea in general to hold the shutter button down. I have the original owner's manual, I am suprised it doesn't mention it.

Thanks again!
 
I thought the meter only selects a shutter speed between 1/500 and 30 seconds, but when I held the shutter release button down in a dimmly lit room it actually stayed open for however long I decided to kept my finger on the button, i.e. it doesn't close after 30 seconds. Otherwise the meter functions perfectly under normal shooting circumstances though.
 
Now that's odd - on my GS, GSN and Pro the shutter stays open after I release the button. Before the PoD was replaced on each camera the opposite was true.

Have you checked the adjustment of your secondary shutter rod? It should only /just/ latch in the down position when you release the shutter. I had one body where someone had adjusted the rod to allow for the fact that the pad was missing - consequently after a new pad was fitted the rod was out by 2mm.

Just a thought, I must consult the repair manual and see if it mentions this.
 
Interesting, John...

I don't know which rod is the secondary one. Must I open the front of the camera to make the adjustment, or can it be done from the top or bottom?

Thanks for the reply!
 
JRJacobs said:
Interesting, John...

I don't know which rod is the secondary one. Must I open the front of the camera to make the adjustment, or can it be done from the top or bottom?

Thanks for the reply!

You can see both rods from the bottom, with the bottom plate off.

If I remember right, the secondary has a larger head and a groove to latch with a small lever once the shutter button reaches the release position. The end of the rod has a screwdriver slot (normal RH thread) so that you can adjust the point at which it latches. According to the service manual this should only just latch at the point when the shutter fires.
 
That did it! I opened up the bottom and adjusted the rod. I also needed to slightly adjust the tab on the lever mechanism to get it to engage. You were right Greyhoundman - my camera didn't make the "clunk" sound and now it does when the rod goes back down. This was super easy: total repair time = 10 mins.

Thanks to everyone for the help on this!
 
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