So, I am officially in LF

[valdas]

A couple of weeks ago I bought Graflex Super Graphic. Last weekend it arrived - really nice condition, clean lens (135mm Optar), all shutter speeds accurate, ready to shoot (the seller included some film holders). The film which I ordered separately arrived yesterday as well as Jobo 2509 reel which I needed for development. The rest of accessories needed for scanning and developing I already had. So, my first sheet... In fact - the second because the first one I managed to ruin (I was really sloppy in removing the dark slide... don't ask how...). I did not look for a great content/subject or try any specific composition - just wanted to go through the process for the first time to "feel it". I also played with camera movements a bit (as you can see from out of focus areas on the shot bellow). Well, it is slow 🙂 But that's expected.

Development. No surprises here. Loading 2509 was quite easy. I did not have dedicated tank (2500 series) for that reel, but the old Jobo 4531 was also ok.

What I did not figure yet is how to dry negatives in a convenient way - I found some tips online, so maybe will figure out my drying process later.

Results. Well - even if it is scanned using simple V700, the resolution (looking at focus areas) did not disappoint me. Foma 400 film grain compared to 35m or even 120 is barely visible. I think I am gonna like it.

 

[Emile de Leon]

That 135 Optar is a surprisingly good lens..
I have one with a ton of front element scratches..and it really sings..
I thought when I got it..some news photog..used his tie like crazy on this lens..
Didnt matter at all..

 

[Corran]

The main thing with movements like tilt is to not overdo it. It's easy to tilt too far if you look at the foreground and then the background, like the trees in your shot, and tilt till they are both in focus...forgetting about anything up higher in the frame. The slightest tilt does enough, usually, if you need it at all. For this shot I would try practicing your front rise, not tilt (get a good level). Keep at it.

 

[Deleted member 65559]

Valdas, Welcome to the club. I hang my negatives to dry in the shower, suspended on a 3mm cord by small alligator clips, just big enough to catch the rebate without touching the image itself.

 

[valdas]

The main thing with movements like tilt is to not overdo it. It's easy to tilt too far if you look at the foreground and then the background, like the trees in your shot, and tilt till they are both in focus...forgetting about anything up higher in the frame. The slightest tilt does enough, usually, if you need it at all. For this shot I would try practicing your front rise, not tilt (get a good level). Keep at it.

Yes, I realize this, but I cound not resist to try it. I did not have an objective to have it all in the focus. It was obvious on the ground glass that plenty of this shot would be out of focus, even at f16. But understanding “how it works” is part of a learning process. I will keep testing this camera and will do “normal focus” shots as well trying to use tilt as appropriate. And I know it’s probably not that easy 🙂

 

[PRJ]

You should reverse the front standard if you plan on doing landscapes. It is easy to do and reversing it will give you tilt in the right direction.

Have fun! Sounds like you are really enthusiastic about it. That is half the battle.

 

[Corran]

The Super Graphic has more movements than the standard Graphics. But reversing the FS is a good idea for those using an older Crown/Speed and wanting to shoot landscapes.

 

[valdas]

Reversing FS? Any information about this?

P.S. ok, I found the video...

 

[Corran]

You don't need to do it if you have a Super Graphic.

The older Crown / Speed Graphic can only tilt backwards, which is because it's designed to correct the tilt caused by dropping the front standard. Reversing the FS means you don't have to drop the front standard to have forward tilt, which is impossible with some focal lengths.

To do this though, you take off the bellows and flip the FS 180 degrees. You also have to do a slight tweak to the locking mechanism to flip it around. Hard to describe in words, but there's videos on it.

 

[valdas]

You don't need to do it if you have a Super Graphic.

The older Crown / Speed Graphic can only tilt backwards, which is because it's designed to correct the tilt caused by dropping the front standard. Reversing the FS means you don't have to drop the front standard to have forward tilt, which is impossible with some focal lengths.

To do this though, you take off the bellows and flip the FS 180 degrees. You also have to do a slight tweak to the locking mechanism to flip it around. Hard to describe in words, but there's videos on it.

Thanks, I found the video. But you are right, my Super Graphic tilts both ways.

 

[mbisc]

Welcome to the Club -- the slippery slope of LF GAS - haha

 

[valdas]

Welcome to the Club -- the slippery slope of LF GAS - haha

I know, I know... 🙂 But I have some Leica stuff to sell to finance that GAS...

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I know, I know... 🙂 But I have some Leica stuff to sell to finance that GAS...

Big mistake. Leica only goes up in price. And harder to find in good condition if used.
In the opposite, LF is getting cheaper and cheaper. I could get awesome used field camera kit for under 500$ now.

 

[plummerl]

Hi Valdas, nice first image! For hanging the negatives, if you have access to IKEA, I found a great solution with the RIKTIG curtain hooks. Cheap and plentiful, works great:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/riktig-curtain-hook-with-clip-80212201/

 

[valdas]

Big mistake. Leica only goes up in price. And harder to find in good condition if used.
In the opposite, LF is getting cheaper and cheaper. I could get awesome used field camera kit for under 500$ now.

And that is exactly the point. The price does not equal value. Selling something I do not use (so it has no value to me but it is expensive) and buying something cheap that I like and value makes perfect sense to me.

 

[valdas]

Hi Valdas, nice first image! For hanging the negatives, if you have access to IKEA, I found a great solution with the RIKTIG curtain hooks. Cheap and plentiful, works great:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/riktig-curtain-hook-with-clip-80212201/

Thanks! Ikea just re-opened here after the lockdown, so tomorrow will buy that stuff!

 

[Ko.Fe.]

And that is exactly the point. The price does not equal value. Selling something I do not use (so it has no value to me but it is expensive) and buying something cheap that I like and value makes perfect sense to me.

What if you quit from LF? You'll have cheap and getting cheaper LF gear, but it will not buy back your Leica anymore, because Leica prices are only going up.

All I'm trying to say, you have camera, shutter and lens. Hold for now and see if LF really works for you.

To me any bw film only works if it is on DR print. Printing from LF is different than from else. 4x5 needs huge enlarger. Decent contact print is from 8x10 and prices for 8x10 negatives are out of reasonable already.

I did 4x5 DR prints. And whole exercise comparing to results was not worth it. Negatives scans are surrogate, IMO.

 

[valdas]

What if you quit from LF? You'll have cheap and getting cheaper LF gear, but it will not buy back your Leica anymore, because Leica prices are only going up.

All I'm trying to say, you have camera, shutter and lens. Hold for now and see if LF really works for you.

To me any bw film only works if it is on DR print. Printing from LF is different than from else. 4x5 needs huge enlarger. Decent contact print is from 8x10 and prices for 8x10 negatives are out of reasonable already.

I did 4x5 DR prints. And whole exercise comparing to results was not worth it. Negatives scans are surrogate, IMO.

First, I have plenty of 35mm gear. Then, I know my priorities. Third, I never consider cameras as an investment, for that there is a stock market, real estate etc. It really does not matter if I sell or not one Leica lens or body.

 

[mbisc]

With manufacturing of Compur and Copal shutters long discontinued, I expect the really good lenses (modern Rodenstocks, and even some of the classics) not dropping in price much more. Sure, 70-y.o. Optars and such are cheap, but they always have been (their value won't drop much more either)...

In my humble opinion, a mediocre 4x5 negative will always make better (wet) prints than the best 35mm negative, and a perfect 4x5 negative (modern Rodenstock lens, Zone system, perfect focus) simply can't be beat in the darkroom.

 

[Corran]

Printing from LF is different than from else. 4x5 needs huge enlarger.

I did 4x5 DR prints. And whole exercise comparing to results was not worth it. Negatives scans are surrogate, IMO.

No it's not, if anything it's easier.

And if you couldn't see a difference from 4x5 negatives you need to check your technique.