I find that I use almost exclusively the 30mm for landscapes.
In response to other comments here:
If you crop film to simulate X-Pan images you can lose quality twice over. Firstly you need to match the X-pan lens performance. Secondly the smaller area of film from the crop will have half the detail.
I find that I use almost exclusively the 30mm for landscapes.
In response to other comments here:
If you crop film to simulate X-Pan images you can lose quality twice over. Firstly you need to match the X-pan lens performance. Secondly the smaller area of film from the crop will have half the detail.
Depends on what size film you crop, and what lens you use. I'd back a cropped 44x66mm image from my Alpa and 38/4.5 Biogon any day, or a cropped 56x84m from my wife's Alpa with a 35/5.6 Apo Grandagon.
Depends on what size film you crop, and what lens you use. I'd back a cropped 44x66mm image from my Alpa and 38/4.5 Biogon any day, or a cropped 56x84m from my wife's Alpa with a 35/5.6 Apo Grandagon.
I'm currently trying a roll of 35 in an old 616 Ansco folding camera. Should produce 24x110-ish frames if you ignore the sprocket holes, which it exposes over just like the 6x9 does.
I'm currently trying a roll of 35 in an old 616 Ansco folding camera. Should produce 24x110-ish frames if you ignore the sprocket holes, which it exposes over just like the 6x9 does.
How are you ensuring reasonable film flatness? This is ENORMOUSLY relevant when considering sharpness, even if the lens is any good. Come to think of it, what lens are you using?
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.