rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
I'm currently working out a deal for an Epson V800 and unless shipping is insanely priced, it ought to be here next week. 
The scanner will be coming with Silverfast and, apparently, Epson's own software. And I already own Vuescan--that's what I've been using with the crappy all-in-one I've been doing what few scans I do at home.
My inclination is to continue to use Vuescan--after getting the drivers for the V800--but I'm not sure.
Vuescan has definitely been better than the Canon software but has also seemed a bit fiddly, I have never been able to get a good scan with out several attempts and the default settings have been "ok" at best.
I shoot one 4x5 film( HP 5+) and my negs are fairly consistent for exposure, now.
I'd like to be able to set sort of a basic "preset" and then, if needed, fine tune that.
Anyone have a specific reason for favoring one or the other(Silverfast or Vuescan) for the V800?
Thanks!
Rob
The scanner will be coming with Silverfast and, apparently, Epson's own software. And I already own Vuescan--that's what I've been using with the crappy all-in-one I've been doing what few scans I do at home.
My inclination is to continue to use Vuescan--after getting the drivers for the V800--but I'm not sure.
Vuescan has definitely been better than the Canon software but has also seemed a bit fiddly, I have never been able to get a good scan with out several attempts and the default settings have been "ok" at best.
I shoot one 4x5 film( HP 5+) and my negs are fairly consistent for exposure, now.
I'd like to be able to set sort of a basic "preset" and then, if needed, fine tune that.
Anyone have a specific reason for favoring one or the other(Silverfast or Vuescan) for the V800?
Thanks!
Rob
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Film scans are not supposed to look perfect right from the scanner, and the software that comes with them is not designed to do so. The ideal film scan looks flat and lifeless; this lets the scanner capture the full range of tones, even in high contrast scenes. You MUST edit the scans in Photoshop or Lightroom or whatever editor you like, if you want to get normal tonality from scans.
Read this tutorial I wrote: Introduction to Film Scanning
Then read my tutorial on using Vuescan to scan BW film. Most of the settings I give should work on your Epson, too (I used a Nikon scanner for the tutorial).
Read this tutorial I wrote: Introduction to Film Scanning
Then read my tutorial on using Vuescan to scan BW film. Most of the settings I give should work on your Epson, too (I used a Nikon scanner for the tutorial).
charjohncarter
Veteran
I agree with Chris. Basic software is letting some else decide how your photos should look. It has been awhile since I watched Chris' tutorial but I seem to remember his basic ideas were correct (at least for me). Everyone eventually creates there own workflow but you will be able to get your files the way you want them IF you don't let software (whatever it is) do the controlling and you do final tweaks in any editing program you like.
Fjäll
■̷̛̈́̉̓́̽&
The Epson standard software works just fine for me. It's the most straightforward. All that's needed is a detailed scan for importing to Lightroom and let the Negative Lab Pro plugin do 95% of the work. I rarely got the colors I wanted in any of the scanning softwares I've tried.
BernardL
Well-known
You already went through the learning curve of Vuescan. So, the only potential negative of that choice does not exist for you, and it's an easy decision. Make sure you have read the "advanced workflow" section of the user manual.
BernardL
Well-known
Maybe that is because these software rely on "smart" guesswork, like auto contrast or white balance.
Have you tried this vuescan workflow:
[blank frame] preview, set exposure; preview, set film base color
[shot of gray card in normal lighting] defocus; right-click on gray sets neutral gray and enters manual color setting
black point 1%; white point 0.2% or whatever suits your preferences
[other frames] just scan
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Epson scan is best software I ever tried with Epson scanners. VS and SF are next to useless on Epsons, IMO.
But it is not for everyone, I'm among those who were able to realize what it does its best in auto. I just took it as the fact what here is zero reason for extra manipulation in Epson scan, it gives best what scanner could give in Professional mode, but WB and exposure are in auto. The rest of adjustment is done in LR 4.4, old standalone sw.
But I use SF with Plustek and since my manual exposed frames are different, it needs individual manipulation before scan comparing to Epson-Epson were it is good enough to scan all frames in one time. Somethings Epson will not be able to batch scan some frames, those I do manually, it is usually frames exposed in very dark surroundings.
But it is not for everyone, I'm among those who were able to realize what it does its best in auto. I just took it as the fact what here is zero reason for extra manipulation in Epson scan, it gives best what scanner could give in Professional mode, but WB and exposure are in auto. The rest of adjustment is done in LR 4.4, old standalone sw.
But I use SF with Plustek and since my manual exposed frames are different, it needs individual manipulation before scan comparing to Epson-Epson were it is good enough to scan all frames in one time. Somethings Epson will not be able to batch scan some frames, those I do manually, it is usually frames exposed in very dark surroundings.
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
Thanks for all your helpful answers.
The seller had listed this for sale in a couple places, including Ebay and someone there did the BIN so I had a message this morning that we couldn't do a deal after all.
I had been clear that I wanted to buy it and all I needed was a total price and seller's email so I could pay him. :bang:
Ah, well. I will find one, hopefully at a similarly good price.
Rob
The seller had listed this for sale in a couple places, including Ebay and someone there did the BIN so I had a message this morning that we couldn't do a deal after all.
I had been clear that I wanted to buy it and all I needed was a total price and seller's email so I could pay him. :bang:
Ah, well. I will find one, hopefully at a similarly good price.
Rob
charjohncarter
Veteran
For color I use the Epson software, and I thank Colton Allen (one of our members) for tutoring me with this:
http://www.coltonallen.com/getting-the-most-from-color-negative-film-with-your-epson-flatbed/
This takes many of the undefinable mysteries out of color processing. I also use a ColorPerfect plugin with PhotoShop Elements to do my final tweaking.
http://www.coltonallen.com/getting-the-most-from-color-negative-film-with-your-epson-flatbed/
This takes many of the undefinable mysteries out of color processing. I also use a ColorPerfect plugin with PhotoShop Elements to do my final tweaking.
Nickon51
Member
I use Vuescan software with my V800 and Nikon Coolscan IV. It does support a lot of scanners and ones that I have used over the years. Silverfast's main disadvantage as far as I am concerned is the limit of one scanner per license.
Unlike some of the previous replies, I am trying to get good scans straight off the scanner without having to use Photoshop or other image editing software. The setting that helps in this is setting brightness in the color tab to .7. This applies a gamma correction to the image. Do a preview with all defaults and then apply brightness .7 and see the difference.
Unlike some of the previous replies, I am trying to get good scans straight off the scanner without having to use Photoshop or other image editing software. The setting that helps in this is setting brightness in the color tab to .7. This applies a gamma correction to the image. Do a preview with all defaults and then apply brightness .7 and see the difference.