Spots on negatives- first time developing BW at home

[AndrewM.]

Hi guys,

I have begun developing BW at home and just finished my first 2 rolls, both shot on a new-to-me Leica M2. I am using the CharJohnCarter method for tri x, shot at 250 ISO so that means HC110 dilution H plus rodinal, following times and temps and agitation/inbersion.

Most of the frames look great- it was amazing to develop my own film for the first time! But...I have some weird things in several of the frames.

Based on attached images, is it the camera or my developing technique/process?

Please lend your insight!!

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Yes, seeing your film come out of the wet chemicals is a great experience.

What weird things are you asking about? The two artifacts I've pointed out below, which cross the frame areas? These look suspicious to me.

Also, frame 9A might be over-exposed.

 

[AndrewM.]

Yes! Sorry, I had no clue how to get those arrows there to point out the flaw!! You are right too about over exposure. I blew exposure on a few other frames. Clouds were coming and going and I am a terrible judge of sunny 16 apparently, at least when sun ins t constant...

So, do those marks look like processing errors or something else?

 

[charjohncarter]

It could be your film was touching (i.e. film off the reel track in one spot).

 

[dufffader]

It looks like chemicals did not get to that part of the film. Mechanically this is usually caused by improper film loading or you may have some foreign item in the container - I sometimes accidentally leave some tape in the reel.

Now, it's early in the morning so my brain is not thinking well. If it is lack of developer contact, it would be clear on that spot, right? And if there's no fixer contact there then it would be dark? If I were you, I'll take take strip and dip it into a fixer mixture to see if it clears off.

 

[Larry H-L]

Possibly a light leak?

 

[AndrewM.]

Thanks guys! Good list of ideas and possibilities. I lean towards me improperly losing the reel. I am using a changing bag and to be honest, I struggled to get the film on for both reels. I think is used too much pressure as I was worried about it jumping the rails outward. Also looks like the blemish runs near the trough of the curve of the film. I am shooting a few other test rolls and will be extra diligent when loading the next 2 rolls.

Does tri x always curl so badly? Tmax or FP4 any better?

 

[ColSebastianMoran]

Wait a minute. The subject areas are dark, not light. That means they were exposed and that developer got to these areas. Light leak?

Andrew, can you give us a closer photo, even a smart-phone photo, of that area of the negatives.

I think the vertical dark bands are the window frame in the background. Give us a clear view of the subject questionable areas.

 

[AndrewM.]

Will do! Just left the tennis courts but will snap and re-size a pic with negatives on the light table just as soon as I am home.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Yes, Tri-X always curls that bad. Beautiful film, but a real pain in the ass to work with.

Are you loading your film on plastic reels or metal reels? I have a video I made showing how to lead 35mm metal reels that you might find useful.

https://youtu.be/HHLvxVDUZHE

Don't feel bad if you messed up some frames on your first roll. We all screwed up our first couple!

 

[AndrewM.]

Thanks again fellows- Chris Crawford, I am using a kit I bought from free style and they are white, plastic reels. Should I try stainless steel in your opinion? I love your tutorials and am gonna try pyro if I can get a year under my belt with HC110 & rodinal.

Okay, here are a few more pics. I bought a light box with the other developing equipment so used that and a loupe to magnify the mistakes I made with these rolls.

Very interesting upon closer inspection with the loupe. There is the 'banding' type defect in frames at the top and then, it looks like To me, a different looking defect in the other frame. I swear it's almost like the other defect is some weird kind of starburst effect- almost static electricity like, if I am making any sense.

Thanks again for all the help and your kindness. I was a little more pumped about these first rolls until I realized how bad I kicked them up!!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Thanks again fellows- Chris Crawford, I am using a kit I bought from free style and they are white, plastic reels. Should I try stainless steel in your opinion? I love your tutorials and am gonna try pyro if I can get a year under my belt with HC110 & rodinal.

Okay, here are a few more pics. I bought a light box with the other developing equipment so used that and a loupe to magnify the mistakes I made with these rolls.

Very interesting upon closer inspection with the loupe. There is the 'banding' type defect in frames at the top and then, it looks like To me, a different looking defect in the other frame. I swear it's almost like the other defect is some weird kind of starburst effect- almost static electricity like, if I am making any sense.

Thanks again for all the help and your kindness. I was a little more pumped about these first rolls until I realized how bad I kicked them up!!

The starburst effect looks like a "Sunstar." It is an effect caused by photographing a landscape scene with the sun shining through tree leaves. Its a type of lens flare, and is not caused by processing.

About reels: I have always preferred metal reels. They're what I learned on when I took photography in high school when I was 15 years old.

A lot of people think plastic reels are easier to load. I don't. If the film is even the tiniest bit damp (and sweat from your hands can do it) the film will bind up on the reel and be very hard to load. This is not an issue with metal. Also, the cut end of the film can sometimes stick on the reel even if the film and reel are dry.

That doesn't mean you have to switch, some people do like the plastic reels. If you do get metal ones, buy Hewes reels. They're very expensive, but are MUCH easier to load than cheap metal reels. Cheap ones are often misaligned even when new and loading one that is not in perfect condition is a maddening experience. Hewes reels cost about $30 each, but they will last a lifetime if you take good care of them (don't drop them!). I have some I have had for 20 years that still work perfectly.

 

[halfaninchawater]

Chris is correct, we all screwed up rolling film on reels the first time around. When it comes to loading film on reels practice makes perfect. Practice loading some old unexposed film you're willing to sacrifice in the light of day. Do it again and again until you can do it easily. Then load it with your eyes closed. You can then see how well you did and correct your method for any mistakes. Then repeat... This should help your confidence level loading either plastic or metal reels when you load film blind.