Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Has someone experienced metering differences (or others) between different button cells?
SR44 and LR44 batteries
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btgc
Veteran
According to General Wisdom, alkaline version drops voltage much faster than silver oxide cells.
I had LR44's in ebay camera and they were good for doing test clicks, no real shooting, though.
I had LR44's in ebay camera and they were good for doing test clicks, no real shooting, though.
George S.
How many is enough?
SR44's are the better choice. As already stated, LR44's can test "GOOD" in-camera, but once you start shooting and put a real-world load on them, they become useless.
btgc
Veteran
Just to add on SR's - there are two versions of them, low drain and high drain. I received camera with Renata SR44's in it and while shooting event with camera ON, after ~20 minutes BATT symbol lit up.
Renata is recognized to be manufacturer of watch batteries, which appear to be low drain and aren't strong enough for long use with electronic shutter+LCD in finder. They are fine for single shots with camera switched OFF between them.
I'm going to purchase two CR1/3N cells, they are valid cells for Ricoh program models. Or look for high drain SR44's cells, though casual shops don't know about this, electronic part shops may have this info in description.
Renata is recognized to be manufacturer of watch batteries, which appear to be low drain and aren't strong enough for long use with electronic shutter+LCD in finder. They are fine for single shots with camera switched OFF between them.
I'm going to purchase two CR1/3N cells, they are valid cells for Ricoh program models. Or look for high drain SR44's cells, though casual shops don't know about this, electronic part shops may have this info in description.
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Roger Hicks
Veteran
Yes. SR44 last a lot longer in all my cameras that use them.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Thanks for the answers!
What about wrong exposures, anyone?
What about wrong exposures, anyone?
Roger Hicks
Veteran
john_s
Well-known
I downloaded a Maxell file from somewhere and it shows equivalents from different manufacturers:
SR44W is shown as high drain (and known as 357 in some makers' catalogues)
SR44SW is shown as low drain (and known as 303 in some makers' catalogues)
SR44W is shown as high drain (and known as 357 in some makers' catalogues)
SR44SW is shown as low drain (and known as 303 in some makers' catalogues)
Bill58
Native Texan
I only use SR44s and get them from these super guys--batteryguy at cogeco dot ca (email)
Somewhere I read that the discharge curve of the SR44 more closely parallels that of the old Mercury batteries.
Somewhere I read that the discharge curve of the SR44 more closely parallels that of the old Mercury batteries.
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Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
The fact is, after trying to find for one month a black CV 28 3.5 for a pocketable just in case set, I quit, and I ordered the very small Olympus XA! Wow, I will get it in a few days, and I can't believe what's inside that shell! I'm happier than I was in the days of getting my Hasselblad with three lenses! I am excited about seeing one of those for the first time and trying to get the most out of that Zuiko... The whole design is so amazing!
Today I read someone saying his small camera was overexposing since he got it, and a friend recommended him to change common LR44 to SR44 cells, and his two stop overexposure went away! As the XA is AE only, its own metering accuracy matters a lot for slide film...
Then I found a few more threads explaining that the subject is complex... Sometimes when batteries are coming to their end, they have different power, leading to wrong exposure. Some other times, even new, LR44s can't keep the same power all the time, so meter doesn't work perfectly.
Some say you can get both over and under exposure, because when the battery gives a wrong power, the curtains can close faster or slower depending on several factors... So for curiosity I checked what batteries I have inside my cameras... All of them, coming from KEH, Adorama, Tokio dealers, and Stephen Gandy, came with LR44...
So I wonder why aren't SR44 more usual if these facts are well known and both batteries cost just cents...
Today I read someone saying his small camera was overexposing since he got it, and a friend recommended him to change common LR44 to SR44 cells, and his two stop overexposure went away! As the XA is AE only, its own metering accuracy matters a lot for slide film...
Then I found a few more threads explaining that the subject is complex... Sometimes when batteries are coming to their end, they have different power, leading to wrong exposure. Some other times, even new, LR44s can't keep the same power all the time, so meter doesn't work perfectly.
Some say you can get both over and under exposure, because when the battery gives a wrong power, the curtains can close faster or slower depending on several factors... So for curiosity I checked what batteries I have inside my cameras... All of them, coming from KEH, Adorama, Tokio dealers, and Stephen Gandy, came with LR44...
So I wonder why aren't SR44 more usual if these facts are well known and both batteries cost just cents...
photograham
Newbie
SR44 is great! Not sure why they are not included, I guess they are cheaper in bulk.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Most cameras made for the SR-44/LR-44 type batteries have more complex circuits than the older cameras made for mercury batteries. The newer cameras have voltage regulators in the circuitry so the voltage drop off on the alkaline should not affect exposure on MOST cameras, but the cameras will cease to function when voltage drops too low and Silver Oxides last longer.
Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Just check if SR or LR batteries are listed to be used with your camera. If LRs are allowed, use them without reservation.
LRs (alkaline) start their lifecycle with a very high voltage (relatively speaking) and drop consistenly over their lifespan. SR (silver oxide based) do indeed hold a much more constant voltage over their lifespan. For older cameras with simple circuitry that does not compensate for the voltage drop of LRs you might get meter variations. I have not heard of shutter problems due to this, but I guess it's possible.
For example my old Nikons (FM/FE/EM) work fine with both LR and SR batteries.
LRs (alkaline) start their lifecycle with a very high voltage (relatively speaking) and drop consistenly over their lifespan. SR (silver oxide based) do indeed hold a much more constant voltage over their lifespan. For older cameras with simple circuitry that does not compensate for the voltage drop of LRs you might get meter variations. I have not heard of shutter problems due to this, but I guess it's possible.
For example my old Nikons (FM/FE/EM) work fine with both LR and SR batteries.
pvdhaar
Peter
There are two main differences between SR and LR cells.
First is a marked difference in shelf life due to self discharge. SR cells should be used within two to three years after manufacture, while LR cells have an expiry date that typically lies ten years away.
The other is peak current. SR cells can deliver a far greater peak current than LR cells. They also show a lower voltage drop while delivering that current.
What you'll see is that cameras where the batteries only power the light meter will be better served with LR type batteries. The very low meter current doesn't drain the LR cells a lot, so their life span isn't much different from their shelf life..
On the other hand, cameras where the batteries also control the shutter and/or power the mirror return (Nikon FA/FE etc) are better served with SR cells. The mechanical functions require larger currents and pose more load on the batteries, draining them within about a year or two. Which more or less corresponds with the expiry date as well.
Coincidence? Nah.. rather clever design..
First is a marked difference in shelf life due to self discharge. SR cells should be used within two to three years after manufacture, while LR cells have an expiry date that typically lies ten years away.
The other is peak current. SR cells can deliver a far greater peak current than LR cells. They also show a lower voltage drop while delivering that current.
What you'll see is that cameras where the batteries only power the light meter will be better served with LR type batteries. The very low meter current doesn't drain the LR cells a lot, so their life span isn't much different from their shelf life..
On the other hand, cameras where the batteries also control the shutter and/or power the mirror return (Nikon FA/FE etc) are better served with SR cells. The mechanical functions require larger currents and pose more load on the batteries, draining them within about a year or two. Which more or less corresponds with the expiry date as well.
Coincidence? Nah.. rather clever design..
btgc
Veteran
From what I have see, XA needs SR44's while XA2 and later models can work also on LR44's.
Probably this is due to XA's two meters, requiring more juice and/or stability of voltage.
And, I think that LR44 is cheaper to produce, which isn't always reflected in retail price. I'm not related to industry so take my assumption with grain of salt.
bgb
Well-known
XA does require 2 x SR44 batteries but i have used LR44 in mine with no exposure issues ... i would not normally use them but they were all i had at the time
The XA is a lovely little camera 🙂
The XA is a lovely little camera 🙂
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
If you can get SR44s at a good price, and use them within their shelf life, why take a chance on SR44s in older cameras?
fuwen
Well-known
I have been using LR44 battries with my RTS II, 159MM, Rollei 35RF, R4M, Praktica and so far I do not face any performance issues.
George S.
How many is enough?
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