keytarjunkie
no longer addicted
Is it necessary?
I ask because for the past year and a half, I've been processing my film with stabilizer, and while it doesn't have any negative affects on 120/220 and 4x5, I ALWAYS get watermarks all over my 35mm. No matter what kind of film, reel, whatever. The other films dry much easier than 35. And I'm beginning to think it's the amount of stabilizer or the time I'm using it.
Basically my developing process is:
-set jobo to 38.0ºC, make sure water temp is exactly 100ºF with an analoge thermometer
-warm up chemistry and water to 100ºF
-dry-warm film tank for 5-10 minutes
-3:15 developer
-0:50 bleach
-1:00 rinse with water
-1:30 fix
-six changes of H20 1 minute each
-1 minute stabilizer
I get good results with this, minus the watermarks on all of my 35 of course. Does anyone have advice on what to do to get rid of them? I've tried wiping them down, it leaves just as many watermarks AND scratches the negs haha.
I ask because for the past year and a half, I've been processing my film with stabilizer, and while it doesn't have any negative affects on 120/220 and 4x5, I ALWAYS get watermarks all over my 35mm. No matter what kind of film, reel, whatever. The other films dry much easier than 35. And I'm beginning to think it's the amount of stabilizer or the time I'm using it.
Basically my developing process is:
-set jobo to 38.0ºC, make sure water temp is exactly 100ºF with an analoge thermometer
-warm up chemistry and water to 100ºF
-dry-warm film tank for 5-10 minutes
-3:15 developer
-0:50 bleach
-1:00 rinse with water
-1:30 fix
-six changes of H20 1 minute each
-1 minute stabilizer
I get good results with this, minus the watermarks on all of my 35 of course. Does anyone have advice on what to do to get rid of them? I've tried wiping them down, it leaves just as many watermarks AND scratches the negs haha.
randomm
Well-known
Just out of curiosity: what c41 set are you using?
I've used both Tetenal and Fuji. Fuji is a regular 4 bath set, whilst Tetenal has bleach and fix combined into a single bath. I can't remember the exact times for Tetenal, but at least for Fuji bleach is 6min30sec and fix 6min. I recall the Tetenal bleach/fix being around similar figures.
I'm interested what chemical set can do the bleach & fix so quickly...
I've used both Tetenal and Fuji. Fuji is a regular 4 bath set, whilst Tetenal has bleach and fix combined into a single bath. I can't remember the exact times for Tetenal, but at least for Fuji bleach is 6min30sec and fix 6min. I recall the Tetenal bleach/fix being around similar figures.
I'm interested what chemical set can do the bleach & fix so quickly...
randomm
Well-known
Oh, back to your question: I've added a bit of photoflo or Fairy washing up liquid into the stab, then it flows off nicely leaving no drying marks 
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
I started developing C41 with a Tetenal/Jobo 1L powder kit. I used distilled water to mix all the chemicals and I added photoflo to the stabilizer. I have had no water marks at all. Using distilled water at least for the last bath (also in b+w developing) means that there are no minerals in the water to leave residue. I also wipe down with my fingers, which don't scratch.
Fotohuis
Well-known
The Stabilizer should contain a wetting agent. In this way it also should prevent drying marks. If not make the Stabilizer with destilled water and if this doesn't help add a small amount of wetting agent.
I am using the (Rollei) Digibase C41 kit without any problems but I am making always the chemicals with a Brita (TM) filtered water, also in B&W.
Trying to squeege a film can be ended in damaging the emulsion, especially when using softer emulsions or doing this (like C41 and E6) on a 38C temperature. Certainly not recommended!
Best regards,
Robert
I am using the (Rollei) Digibase C41 kit without any problems but I am making always the chemicals with a Brita (TM) filtered water, also in B&W.
Trying to squeege a film can be ended in damaging the emulsion, especially when using softer emulsions or doing this (like C41 and E6) on a 38C temperature. Certainly not recommended!
Best regards,
Robert
Fotohuis
Well-known
BTW, the same set up: Jobo CPA-2 with elevator, temperature 38C measured with a calibrated mercury analogue thermometer.
Same processing only 3 water changes 1-2-4 minutes. The Stabilizer not in the drum anymore and not in rotary because of the foam building.
Same processing only 3 water changes 1-2-4 minutes. The Stabilizer not in the drum anymore and not in rotary because of the foam building.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
The stabilizer is absolutely needed in C-41; omitting it will significantly reduce the lifespan of the negatives.
Ronald M
Veteran
I hope you are not trying to keep it stored.
Do keep it in a clean dedicated glass bottle.
You absolutely must use it.
Try mixing with distilled water and keep it away from the Jobo. Hang the film and spray it down with stabilizer. I use a $2 plastic ear syringe which I rinse 25 times before first use. Store nose down in bottle so it drips out and rinse out the stabilizer after each use.
Inspect the film before stabilizing so you know for sure contamination is from that step.
That is all drying marks are, contamination from somewhere. You need to find it.
Do keep it in a clean dedicated glass bottle.
You absolutely must use it.
Try mixing with distilled water and keep it away from the Jobo. Hang the film and spray it down with stabilizer. I use a $2 plastic ear syringe which I rinse 25 times before first use. Store nose down in bottle so it drips out and rinse out the stabilizer after each use.
Inspect the film before stabilizing so you know for sure contamination is from that step.
That is all drying marks are, contamination from somewhere. You need to find it.
keytarjunkie
no longer addicted
Hmm, I never heat my stab but I do always apply it to the film via jobo. Maybe I'll try spraying it on...