Staining developers

[Freakscene]

Just remember the pyro developers can be quite toxic and are suspected mutagens/carcinogens. Try to stick with the liquid concentrates (avoid mixing powders absent special equipment to prevent powder inhalation) and wear nitrile gloves to avoid absorption and skin staining.

Pyrocatechol and pyrogallol are no more toxic than hydroquinone, which is in most developers. Be careful with all of them.

Marty

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Hooray! PMK arrived today, but I have to wait for the Alkaline fix to arrive from Germany, as the only UK supplier had none in stock, and would have to order it in.

A question on stop bath - I currently use Ilfostop - should I use that or something else?

 

[Pashmo]

Hooray! PMK arrived today, but I have to wait for the Alkaline fix to arrive from Germany, as the only UK supplier had none in stock, and would have to order it in.

A question on stop bath - I currently use Ilfostop - should I use that or something else?

I've only ever used a water stop, but that goes for all my films wether developed in pyro or otherwise.

I went on a hunt for Alkaline fixers after Fotospeed discontinued their FX40 alkali fixer. I have a list of UK suppliers stocking various alkali fixers, I'll dig it out for you.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Pashmo that would be most kind, thank you!

 

[Pashmo]

Pashmo that would be most kind, thank you!

I’ve had a quick look about and first call photographic have stock of Tetenal Superfix odourless and Rollei RXN. Although not strictly Alkaline they are pH neutral so better than a traditional fix for pyro devs.

If you don’t mind waiting a few days then Fotoimpex have stock of Moersch’s ATS alkaline fixer. I’ve bought from them before and delivery was faster than buying in the UK sometimes.

I also have a few recipes for home made alkali fixers if you want to go down that route. Very easy to make.

 

[Dan]

I believe a plain water stop is recommended (fill the tank, drain, repeat once more, then fix).

 

[Nokton48]

I've always used a double water rinse when developing film with PMK+

I also just bought a fresh bottle, and some TD-54 fixer from FF. And some fresh Amidol.
I use a flat toothpick to add a "pinch" which turns PMK into PMK+

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

As several others have pointed out, use plain water instead of acid stop bath. Anything acidic destroys image stain.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Thanks all, pure water it shall be.

Pashmo - I ordered some from Fotoimpex on Monday, I always find them to be very well priced (especially film) and as or even more rapid than most UK suppliers, which is sad in a way, but hey ho.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

I've always used a double water rinse when developing film with PMK+

I also just bought a fresh bottle, and some TD-54 fixer from FF. And some fresh Amidol.
I use a flat toothpick to add a "pinch" which turns PMK into PMK+

I'm officially intrigued.

 

[Nokton48]

It's in the "Book of Pyro". A pinch of Amidol will add 1/3 to 1/2 stop actual shadow film speed. All you need is a box of flat toothpicks, and a very small amount of Amidol.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Thanks! I'll start with the normal first and see how it goes.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Moersch alkaline fixer arrived today so were it not for some house viewings (selling a house is a royal PITA) I'd have got going already. I'm assuming it's like normal fixer in that you mix it and then reuse until in need of replenishment.

A big thanks to Chris Crawford - his information on developing is first rate. http://crawfordphotoschool.com/film/developing.php?tab=3

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

A horrible feeling went through my mind as I just looked at the negatives hanging to dry. I used the PMK recipe for Bergger at 400 from Bergger itself and the images look very under. Then I realised I might well have put in 300 + 1 + 2 rather than 300 + 3 + 6. On the other hand 18 minutes at 20 seemed very long.

Oh well, the best time to make a mistake is with a trial roll!

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Under a bit, but those highlight tones are exquisite. The home of Nescafe nears its end at Hayes. From the train with an Olympus 35RD, Bergger Pancro 400 at 400 in PMK Pyro 1+2+300 for 18 minutes at 20c, using the Chris Crawford 1 min agitation at the start, then 2 each 15 seconds. Felt like hours...

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Charles,


I'm glad I was able to help you. Your first effort looks good. My first time had spots and streaks! The only problem with yours is the darker tones are kind of flat; I think that's from using the incorrect dilution. Next time should come out much better!


When you run out of the Bergger film, try some Ilford HP5 or FP4; they're incredible in PMK!

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Thanks Chris - the camera's now loaded with HP5 and I will not muck up the dilution again. Your guidance steered me well away from heffalump traps (except of my own making!).

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

A roll of Tmax400 at 200 just out of the tank. Proper dilutions this time, done using Chris's guidance on Tmax (I shaved 30 secs off the end to reflect the slightly greater exposure at 200 rather than 250) and all done at 24c. Much, much nicer negatives. Now I have to wait for them to dry.

Meanwhile, please someone buy my house so I can move and set up a proper darkroom with enlargers! Film is a total experience.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

A roll of Tmax400 at 200 just out of the tank. Proper dilutions this time, done using Chris's guidance on Tmax (I shaved 30 secs off the end to reflect the slightly greater exposure at 200 rather than 250) and all done at 24c. Much, much nicer negatives. Now I have to wait for them to dry.

Meanwhile, please someone buy my house so I can move and set up a proper darkroom with enlargers! Film is a total experience.

Awesome! Post some pics once you get them scanned.

 

[CharlesDAMorgan]

Just exquisite negatives. I know Tmax400 is a stunning film, and I was shooting with my beautiful 105mm Nikkor DC f2, but the results are above that.

Yankee Doodles on stilts, Prescott Hill Climb Autumn Classic 2019