Stand Developing and Push?

[fromthehip]

Getting ready to develop with stand and had a few questions.

Right now when I shoot and send off to the lab, I push Tri-X 400 one stop to 800 and use a .3 nd filter during the day.*To be clear I live in Sunny California and shoot at the beach a lot and wanted a way to be able to shoot into the night as well on the same roll. I found pushing to 800 allowed me to have a camera that I can use after the sun goes down, by simply popping off the nd filter… and having faster shutter speeds at night of course. *

For example, on most sunny days, I keep my shutter at a constant 250th, and f/11 there by over exposing by 1 or 1 and a half stop. *(To create think/fat negatives supposedly best for scanning) Pushing 800 called for the nd filter to keep these settings.

I’m just wondering now with starting to do stand develop at home, if I’d need to use the nd filter anymore?

So now with stand, also wondering if the way I was shooting will still work?

1. *Does stand development work well with over exposing or is that not the best way to get a scannable negative? *Or best to just expose properly?

2. *For shooting, with stand it sounds like I can just shoot as fast a shutter I want at night, and no need for ND filter during the day and stand with Rodinal magical understands I was at 400 or 800🙂 Is that’s what’s meant by changing iso on the fly?

3. One member mentioned that we he pushes he uses this:
“When expose the film to a higher speed (example TX400 @800iso @1600iso @3200iso @6400iso) the recipe is - respectively - 300ml. water + 4ml. or 5ml. or 6ml. or 7,5ml. for 6400iso.

Your thoughts on all?

Thanks,

Shane

 

[Bill Clark]

This is a good article:

And I find it works!

http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/

 

[fromthehip]

Thanks! Yes I'm using that article as my base and it answers most questions... just not the ones I'm posing here exactly. 🙂

This is a good article:

And I find it works!

http://jbhildebrand.com/2011/tutorials/workflow-tutorial-2-stand-development-with-rodinal/

 

[Bill Clark]

I change shutter speeds depending on the situation. Years ago my standard speed was 1/60th.

I still Am learning. I find that's the fun and interesting part with photography.

What works for some folks may not be the thing for me to do.

I look at what is going on in front of the lens. I find that keeps me pretty busy!

Hope this helps you.

 

[fromthehip]

bump

bump

anyone else?

 

[charjohncarter]

What is your reason for using stand? I don't think by using stand you will change as you say the use of a ND filter. There are other developers that have been designed for multiple EV, but I'm not sure stand is one of them. Stand is for your sunny day shots at the beach as it compensates for extreme tonal ranges. But even shooting at double the EV in the low tonal range of the evening you will probably get muddy, and poor mid-range tones. Now if you are scanning you should be able to get these flaws back in PS or other editing programs with curves.

My preference is to figure out a solid development scheme (time,temp, agitation) and tailor it for sunny days. Then in the evening shoot at your 800 which will give some added contrast when developed normally. And if that isn't enough you can still go to curves or harsher paper.

 

[fromthehip]

Thanks, my reason to use stand is the simplicity. 🙂

What is your reason for using stand? I don't think by using stand you will change as you say the use of a ND filter. There are other developers that have been designed for multiple EV, but I'm not sure stand is one of them. Stand is for your sunny day shots at the beach as it compensates for extreme tonal ranges. But even shooting a double the EV in the low tonal range of the evening your will probably get muddy, and poor mid-range tones. Now if you are scanning you should be able to get these flaws back in PS or others editing programs with curves.

My preference is to figure out a solid development scheme (time,temp, agitation) and tailor it for sunny days. Then in the evening shoot at your 800 which will give some added contrast when developed normally. And if that isn't enough you can still go to curves or harsher paper.

 

[telenous]

...

Right now when I shoot and send off to the lab, I push Tri-X 400 one stop to 800 and use a .3 nd filter during the day.*To be clear I live in Sunny California and shoot at the beach a lot and wanted a way to be able to shoot into the night as well on the same roll. I found pushing to 800 allowed me to have a camera that I can use after the sun goes down, by simply popping off the nd filter… and having faster shutter speeds at night of course. *

I've tried pretty much what you describe above in a brief visit to Cali, albeit with Ilford HP5+ 400 and no ND filter. Personally I wasn't happy with the outcome -- everything was a compromise, and the tonality of the negs, esp. in photos made during the day, was seriously lacking, except in a few lucky frames. Apologies if this isn't what you want to hear, I know we are all headstrong about stuff like that, best of course will be to try this and see for yourself. I'm now using appropriate ISO film for the speed/contrast I need. If that means changing film mid-roll, so be it, big deal.

As for stand, I don't think it will solve your problems. I've tried it a long time ago with Rodinal, and this is a developer that works well for slight pulling, not pushing. Overall I can't say I remember 'stand' giving me anything I couldn't have got with a regular developer. Of course, I had to try for myself, see how 'stand' turns out for me, so you may well too.

Anyway, this has been my experience, fwiw.

.

 

[Bob Michaels]

I change shutter speeds depending on the situation. .....

Aw Bill, come on. Changing shutter speeds is far too simple, far too pedestrian. Even a novice can change shutter speeds.

You need to invent your own convoluted complex process.

 

[Bill Clark]

Gosh Bob, now you have me confused. Or is it convoluted? Ha! I guess I'll need to go digital and use "P" cuz that stands for professional. At least that's what I've been told!

The item I need to remember is to first take the lens cap off!

Have a wonderful week!

 

[Bob Michaels]

Bill, it is funny that just yesterday I commented privately to another RFF member that I though I was seeing a decrease in the number of people trying to invent a complex solution when a simple one already existed.

Then many get off discussing using a ND filter and a non standard development process but your solution is simply changing shutter speeds. I get to thinking that man Bill Clark is a real genius.

 

[fromthehip]

An entertaining bunch for sure… 🙂

TIME TO SHIFT!

I've been inspired, mid roll, to just test and finish the roll out at 400 with no .nd filter.

Exotic I know!

Like this, I can of course see the results with stand on all and choose from there.

Question answered.

Would love not to have to juggle a filter anymore.

May even post my findings at some point.

Thanks guys.

 

[Mark C]

Why did you ever have to juggle a filter; doesn't your camera have a 1/500 second shutter speed?

 

[fromthehip]

It's a Leica... For accuracy, we try to stay below 1/500th. 🙂

Why did you ever have to juggle a filter; doesn't your camera have a 1/500 second shutter speed?