Started with Xtol 1:3, Discovered Xtol 1:1

DNG

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Seems like with the 1:3 dilution, my negatives were always a tad thin. I tried longer times, more agitation, over exposure by 1/3 stop... no real help..:bang:

So, with my last roll of Delta 100, I shot it at 64, developed for 100 at the time for 20c, though my temp was 21c, at the 1:1 dilution....

What a difference... nice density, not over done, great scanning with just a few adjustments.

🙂

I will post a few photographs in a bit......
 
I haven't tried Delta with XTOl, but I like 1:1 better for TMAX 400 and Neopan ACROS, and I like 1:3 better for Neopan 400.

Gonna have to try it neat with the ultra-modern emulsions, I think.
 
Xtol 1+3 works very close to exhaustion for the developer, which is not especially vigorous. First checks: did you use distilled water for mixing and diluting, and did you use 100 mL of stock solution per roll? These can cause thin negs. With TMX, even doing everything right, some negs come out thin (if the subject matter is high key and the neg is thick) which is why kodak stopped recommending 1+2 and 1+3 dilutions. It is possible that the same is happening here, but I'm not sure - I only used Xtol on Delta 400 at 1+1, and a long time ago.

File0896.jpg


You can also just stop asking questions and use 1+1, unless you want the acutance and look of 1+3.

Marty
 
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I dig Xtol 1:1, even moreso with a little dash of rodinal in the mix. Seems like it lends a bit more crunch to the look of the shots. Kinda like running the guitar through a Fender AND a Marshall at the same time: Glisten and Bite.
 
Xtol 1+3 works very close to exhaustion for the developer, which is not especially vigorous. First checks: did you use distilled water for mixing and diluting, and did you use 125 mL of stock solution per roll? These can cause thin negs. With TMX, even doing everything right, some negs come out thin (if the subject matter is high key and the neg is thick) which is why kodak stopped recommending 1+2 and 1+3 dilutions. It is possible that the same is happening here, but I'm not sure - I only used Xtol on Delta 400 at 1+1, and a long time ago.

You can also just stop asking questions and use 1+1, unless you want the acutance and look of 1+3.

Marty

Yes, on are your prep questions. I used as 1:3, 125ml of Xtol. So, that was just not enough?. Umm, I thought going with 400ml per roll would be fine with 1:3. It is 1/4 inch higher than the reel.

Oh well. I'll never stop asking for advice, if I need it. That's what this forum is for.

Thanks for help.
 
Yes, on are your prep questions. I used as 1:3, 125ml of Xtol. So, that was just not enough?. Umm, I thought going with 400ml per roll would be fine with 1:3. It is 1/4 inch higher than the reel.

Oh well. I'll never stop asking for advice, if I need it. That's what this forum is for.

Thanks for help.

So you have 400 mL of solution in total? That's about 100 mL of stock (what kodak recommends). That might not be enough. Even 125 mL might not be. If you like 1+3 and want to keep using it, try 1 or 2 rolls in a 4 roll tank and see what happens. Otherwise just stick with 1+1.

Marty
 
So you have 400 mL of solution in total? That's about 100 mL of stock (what kodak recommends). That might not be enough. Even 125 mL might not be. If you like 1+3 and want to keep using it, try 1 or 2 rolls in a 4 roll tank and see what happens. Otherwise just stick with 1+1.

Marty

Yeah, I'll have to increase maybe to 500 milliliters or so for that dilution
thanks
 
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I love it too. 1+2 has become my staple as it is a little more economical, even gentler on highlights and has a touch more bit but otherwise very, very close only cheaper.

People go on about Xtol being bland but I see nothing bland in my prints and neither does anyone else.
 
Interesting. I have never met an emulsion that didn't love Xtol 1:3 and continuous agitation. Alas, that doesn't include Delta 100. For some reason, Delta 100 didn't like me. Or I didn't like Delta 100.
Based on your results above, I'm going out this weekend and waste a bunch of film. Working strictly in color for past few months is more than I can stand. I may even try Xtol 1:1 and/or add a few drops of Rodinal. I tried that once a few years back. Liked the results. Didn't follow up. Dumb.
Keep running film through Bubba. I need another M body. Dumb!
 
I just noticed the embossed siding on the building in your first photo. I ran across a similar building in Flatonia, Texas. Way cool when the light hits it just right. Thanks for sharing. What lens/lenses were using above?

EDIT DUH!: SMACKS his head hard. Pentax. Ok.
 
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I just noticed the embossed siding on the building in your first photo. I ran across a similar building in Flatonia, Texas. Way cool when the light hits it just right. Thanks for sharing. What lens/lenses were using above?

EDIT DUH!: SMACKS his head hard. Pentax. Ok.

That's OK,
I have to exercise the Pentax also... 😀
The Pre-SMC 55mm f/1.8 is really a nice lens for B&W and fine grain film. as the above photo's show.

Bubba get's the next few rolls.. 😉
 
I just discovered XTOL myself and am loving it! I happily burned through a few rolls of various film when I was off work last week. Despite the very short days here this time of year I shot a film per day plus, a fun vacation despite staying at home. 😀

So far I found that I like 1+1 for regular exposure / box speed or just below (1/3 stop, depending on the film), or stock for pushing film 1 or 2 stops. Check out my XTOL set on flickr if you'd like to see how Fomapan, Rollei RPX400, Rollei Superpan 200, FP4+, and possibly others look developed in XTOL of various dilutions:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsomogyi/sets/72157625536615184/with/5307180495/

I actually bought my first batch of XTOL because it is supposedly more environmentally friendly (or at least less environmentally unfriendly) than other developers. Not that I meant to hijack your thread, but is that true?

Cheers,
Rob
 
Arista.EDU-Ultra 200 (a.k.a. Fomapan 200) exposed at EV 100 in Xtol 1:3 is a favorite of mine. I'm hording my last few sheets hoping that it will return to production someday.
 
I actually bought my first batch of XTOL because it is supposedly more environmentally friendly (or at least less environmentally unfriendly) than other developers. Not that I meant to hijack your thread, but is that true?

Xtol does not have any hydroquinone or other phenolic developing agents. This is environmentally good - they are quite persistent and fairly toxic. But it still contains borates, which are environmentally deleterious to plants. The most environmentally friendly developers contain no phenols or borates, but as far as I know there are no commercially made developers like this, although you can mix them yourself.

Marty
 
I thought the whole point of Xtol 1:3 was to pull shadow detail when pushing, so the low contrast property of the developer would be desired. I regually use Xtol 1:3 for 400@1600, agitate for the first minute and then 15 seconds every 3 minutes. I do not use it for below @800. This is when hc-110 generally comes in to play for me.

old expired tri-x @1600 in xtol 1:3

1127564371_jJS9M-L.jpg


neopan 400@1600 in xtol 1:3

1077701162_GjKus-L.jpg

1077701131_UPeky-L.jpg



neopan 400@1600, I think this is hc-110 1:100

1059120480_qMcgu-L.jpg
 
@Denis M

Nice photographs, Lots of highlight and shadow details, and tonal range.

It is, I like 1:3, but I need to increase how much I use..
As I mentioned, I used 125ml of Xtol to make 400ml, witch was too little Xtol. It got exhausted before the timer went off.. hence thin negatives... So, I will increase it to 600ml working solution, and increase Xtol to 200ml. for 1:3 in a 2 reel tank with one reel loaded. Xtol needs a min amount of stock solution, and 125ml was too low for 1:3.
 
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