Starter kit for film developing help?

L

Landberg

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Hi!

It's been almost 8 years since i developed my last roll of film. I'm a bit curious to try it again and wondering in if this kit is ok or if it is just ****ty?
I'm shooting tmax 400. Where do i find the develop times for this chemistry and tmax 400?

My idea is to keep the film tank and spirals and then buy new chemicals and cylinders, will that work?

http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/darkroom/starter-kit-film-basic.html

Thank you!
 
Hei!

TMax in Adonal (which is the same as Rodinal) looks wonderful IMO. With proper agitation, it gives it a bit more contrast and grain.

Here you'll find any development time for TMax 400 in any developer. For Adonal, just see Rodinal and you're off. Ask if you wonder more.

Edit: For my taste it works perfectly in Adonal 1+50, 10 minutes, with 30 seconds vigorous agitation the first minute and 15 seconds every following minute.
 
That starter kit isn't too bad for the money asked. The Paterson tank is a good one and costs about 26 euro on its own.
 
Andrea Taurisano said:
Hei!

TMax in Adonal (which is the same as Rodinal) looks wonderful IMO. With proper agitation, it gives it a bit more contrast and grain.

Here you'll find any development time for TMax 400 in any developer. For Adonal, just see Rodinal and you're off. Ask if you wonder more.
Click to expand...

Thank you for a quick answer!
How much liquid will i use/film?

Is the Tmax dev/fix a god choice after the test chemicals? And adostop for stoppbath?
 
Landberg said:
Thank you for a quick answer!
How much liquid will i use/film?

Is the Tmax dev/fix a god choice after the test chemicals? And adostop for stoppbath?
Click to expand...

The tank you're buying seems to be a two reel one (= where you can develop 2 rolls together), and those hold normally 600ml liquid. On the bottom of the tank you can normally read how much liquid you need if you have both 35mm reels inside, only one 35mm, or only one set on 120 film. You do your simple math consequently and there you go. For the 600 ml developing solution necessary for two 35 mm rolls, you'll need 12ml Adonal (1+49), so your first bottle will last for a while.

Many say that TMax gives its best when developed in TMax developer, but its best means infinite tonal range and no grain, while I prefer more contrasty BW with visible grain. If you have similar tastes in fact of BW, you'll love the combination you're getting with the combo you linked to. I never used or felt the need for anything else than Rodinal (now Adonal). This is also a very simple developer to use, by the way.

The stop bath will work just fine, I never used any in fact.
 
Andrea Taurisano said:
The tank you're buying seems to be a two reel one (= where you can develop 2 rolls together), and those hold normally 600ml liquid. On the bottom of the tank you can normally read how much liquid you need if you have both 35mm reels inside, only one 35mm, or only one set on 120 film. You do your simple math consequently and there you go. For the 600 ml developing solution necessary for two 35 mm rolls, you'll need 12ml Adonal (1+49), so your first bottle will last for a while.

Many say that TMax gives its best when developed in TMax developer, but its best means infinite tonal range and no grain, while I prefer more contrasty BW with visible grain. If you have similar tastes in fact of BW, you'll love the combination you're getting with the combo you linked to. I never used or felt the need for anything else than Rodinal (now Adonal). This is also a very simple developer to use, by the way.

The stop bath will work just fine, I never used any in fact.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Do you use water instead of stop?
 
Landberg said:
Thanks! Do you use water instead of stop?
Click to expand...

Yes, as soon as I finish emptying the tank of the developer, I quickly fill it with water shake it once and empty it, before starting the fixing. But when I skipped this step and went from developing to fixing directly I saw no difference whatsoever. Lykke til!
 
Andrea Taurisano said:
Yes, as soon as I finish emptying the tank of the developer, I quickly fill it with water shake it once and empty it, before starting the fixing. But when I skipped this step and went from developing to fixing directly I saw no difference whatsoever. Lykke til!
Click to expand...

Mange Takk!;)
 
One more question, i remember that we used to put something in the water at the end to prevent dry stains on the film, what is that? :p
 
The same as i use to do the dishes? When do i put it in and how long should i wash the film? (Feeling like a student again!) ;)
 
Landberg said:
Hi!

It's been almost 8 years since i developed my last roll of film. I'm a bit curious to try it again and wondering in if this kit is ok or if it is just ****ty?
I'm shooting tmax 400. Where do i find the develop times for this chemistry and tmax 400?

My idea is to keep the film tank and spirals and then buy new chemicals and cylinders, will that work?

http://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/darkroom/starter-kit-film-basic.html

Thank you!
Click to expand...

That's not a bad starter kit. I've been using a two-reel Patterson tank for years.

I would supplement the kit with two 600 ml graduates (plastic is fine); one for developer and the other for fixer.

To avoid water and dust spots, I recommend doing the following: (1) use distilled water for your last rinse; and (2) then dunk the reel(s) into a bath of distilled water and one or two drops of Photoflo and let them soak for a couple of minutes. Be sure to scrub the plastic reels thoroughly after each use; you don't want Photoflo to build up on the reels.
 
Bingley said:
That's not a bad starter kit. I've been using a two-reel Patterson tank for years.

I would supplement the kit with two 600 ml graduates (plastic is fine); one for developer and the other for fixer.

To avoid water and dust spots, I recommend doing the following: (1) use distilled water for your last rinse; and (2) then dunk the reel(s) into a bath of distilled water and one or two drops of Photoflo and let them soak for a couple of minutes. Be sure to scrub the plastic reels thoroughly after each use; you don't want Photoflo to build up on the reels.
Click to expand...

I ordered two graduates for that reason. Back in the days when i developed film we always used regular water and it worked just fine.

Some say to just to put water in the tank with a couple of drops of wetting agent and then agitation for 30 seconds to a minute. Is that wrong or just a different way?

Can i clean the tank and the reels with regular washing up liquid?
 
Clean the tank, and give the reels a good scrub with a clean washing up brush - use clean hot water with normal washing up liquid (as used for dishes) it'll do the job.

Wetting agent + agitation is just a different way - everyone does it slightly different.
 
Thank you all for quick help! I just ordered the start kit above. I will order some tmax dev/fix soon. I think this will keep me away from digital camera for a long time!;)

Another "big" question, squeegee or not to squeegee?
 
I used to just take the of the top of the tank and then put it under the tap for a couple of minutes. For cleaning. And then before i take out the film i fill it up with water one last time and some wetting agent + agitation.
 
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137356

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137356

The Patterson tank and reels are OK.
I prefer metal tanks and reels.
Rodinal is a great developer.
TMax film needs long fixing times!
TMax developer was not made specially for TMax films..
The name was chosen. Sorry!
It is a good developer.
I would choose Tri-X or HP5 rather than TMax.
I stand my water for a few days..The Ph becomes better.
More neutral.
I filter all solutions before use.
I fix double the clearing time of a piece of film.
Use filtered Photographic soap liquid for final rinse.
Good luck, it's easy and fun.Keep notes!
 
leicapixie said:
The Patterson tank and reels are OK.
I prefer metal tanks and reels.
Rodinal is a great developer.
TMax film needs long fixing times!
TMax developer was not made specially for TMax films..
The name was chosen. Sorry!
It is a good developer.
I would choose Tri-X or HP5 rather than TMax.
I stand my water for a few days..The Ph becomes better.
More neutral.
I filter all solutions before use.
I fix double the clearing time of a piece of film.
Use filtered Photographic soap liquid for final rinse.
Good luck, it's easy and fun.Keep notes!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Where can i find fix times? i Googled it but found different answers.
 
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