Starting with a used darkroom

[Y0ssar1an]

Hi,

I want to start making my own B&W contact sheets and prints. Fortunately there is a darkroom downstairs from me at work (a university physics department). No one has used it for a long time. It needs a thorough dust/clean but is an amazing resource, fully dark, safelights, running water, enlargers, etc.

My question is basically about chemical longetivity and contamination:

1. There is a good stock of powered D19 and D76 developer. Does this have a shelf life? Is this what I want to be using or should I start with C41?

2. There is a stock of liquid fixer of unknown age which sounds suspiciously cristaline on shaking. The label on the back says two years. I assume I should just buy new.

3. Would you advise disposing of all trays, reels, tongs etc as there is no record of what's been used in them?

4. There is some assorted Ilford and Kodak paper stock in a dark safe. Does paper age? I can't find any developement info on the outside. I assume it's OK?

Thanks, Ben

PS: There's also a JOBO developing tank/machine (for which I forgot to write down the model number). I've never worked with one before, and don't plan on starting off on this, but would welcome opinions on how easy they are to clean (or on the flip side how likely it is that it's contaminated!)

 

[TEZillman]

Ben,

Welcome to the forum! I'll give you my 2 cents worth. I would suggest that you buy new chemicals. Without knowing their age, you are risking your films. Yes they do spoil and they should have a use by date on them. You're not at much risk trying to use the paper as you can always try again with fresh paper if it's spoiled. You just do not want to destroy your negatives.

I would suggest starting with standard silver based film and paper rather than C41. C41 is expensive and harder to work with.

With a thorough cleaning, you should be able to use the trays, tongs and reels without any great danger.

I'm afraid I have never used a Jobo processor, so I can't offer any advise there.

 

[Finder]

My question is basically about chemical longetivity and contamination:

1. There is a good stock of powered D19 and D76 developer. Does this have a shelf life? Is this what I want to be using or should I start with C41?

As long as the power is not wet or exposed to air for that time, it should be fine. D19 is a high contrast developer for lith film. D76 is a normal B&W film developer. C41 is for color negatives and chromagenic B&W.

2. There is a stock of liquid fixer of unknown age which sounds suspiciously cristaline on shaking. The label on the back says two years. I assume I should just buy new.

New sounds like a good idea. Usually liquid stock has a shelf life except for stop bath.

3. Would you advise disposing of all trays, reels, tongs etc as there is no record of what's been used in them?

I see no problem if they were kept well. Fixer can stain a tray brown, but it is not a problem. I always use the same tray for the chemical. When I finish, I leave everything bone dry so I know chemicals are not sitting on anything - most chemicals look like water. Fixer is especially corrosive. So rinse with hot water and have plenty of towels.

4. There is some assorted Ilford and Kodak paper stock in a dark safe. Does paper age? I can't find any developement info on the outside. I assume it's OK?

Paper, like film, has a shelf life. If the development instuctions are still there, they will be on a sheet in the box.

I would look at all the material as a little suspect until you have used it. Take a test roll of film and make a few contacts with the paper. The paper may be at least good enough for contacts.

The Jobo processors are good machines. It should have been cleaned after every use. If it is dirty, it is hard to know what to do without the model and the problem. BTW, Jobo sells a processor cleaning chemical for the tempering bath.

Anyway, have fun. It sounds like a good dusting is the order of the day. I would try to round up the instructions for the enlargers as they may need to be collimated and aligned.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I would also suggest trying it, but not with critical stuff first. I've mixed up and used 15 year old developer and fixer before. I also used some 20yr out of date paper before. It worked, good enough for practice.

 

[Fred]

And a second welcome Y0ssar1an, sounds like you should fit right in. There are many here who do there own film processing and a smaller number who can/choose to wet print where others who do not have the facilities scan the negatives.

OK the inportants bits of your questions:

1) Bin the existing chemistry, keep the paper for testing and getting used to the printing and handling the paper. Yes it ages but at a far slower rate than the average colour film. New chemistry gives you a good starting point reducing the unknown variables.

2) Go for traditional monochrome. It means that you can print using the red safe light. Gives you the confidence as well for working in the dark. More important is that the temperature is not as critical, above 20 degrees is fine. Adjust for the film dev though.

3) Wash all trays, containers completely before use, the past life should have no effect.

4) the most important, have fun but get a book (anything by John Hedgecoe should help) You'll be making fine prints in no time.

5) Don't give up, consider going on a course to refine your skills.

 

[Y0ssar1an]

Wow, thanks for all the quick replies. I had the wrong idea about C-41, I thought it was the standard for B&W. I'll stick to D76 then. Right now I've been getting my negs developed in a nearby store as I don't want to try anything I can't do-over.

Sounds like with a quick trip I'll have enough to start practicing.

Thanks again, Ben

 

[titrisol]

Hi BEN:

Is they are in cans of sealed envelopes they are probably still OK.
But for starters buy your own chemistry.
Dump the fixer!

Hi,
1. There is a good stock of powered D19 and D76 developer. Does this have a shelf life? Is this what I want to be using or should I start with C41?

2. There is a stock of liquid fixer of unknown age which sounds suspiciously cristaline on shaking. The label on the back says two years. I assume I should just buy new.

These should be alright, give them a wash first just to be sure.

3. Would you advise disposing of all trays, reels, tongs etc as there is no record of what's been used in them?

Yes peper ages, just develop by inspection... isn;t that wonderful 😉
Get some paper developer (Ethol LPD is my fav) and try making prints.
Cut a small piece of the box you plan to use and thrown in the develper, check for graying. If the paper comes out white you are in business, if it comes slightly gray it may still be used for contacts.

4. There is some assorted Ilford and Kodak paper stock in a dark safe. Does paper age? I can't find any developement info on the outside. I assume it's OK?

Thanks, Ben

Though I haven't used JOBOs routinely, they are supposed to be the best for developing film.

PS: There's also a JOBO developing tank/machine (for which I forgot to write down the model number). I've never worked with one before, and don't plan on starting off on this, but would welcome opinions on how easy they are to clean (or on the flip side how likely it is that it's contaminated!)