Strange Contax

Shostka

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Jan 13, 2025
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Tokyo
Hello from Tokyo!
I found strange marking engraved ContaxII on the internet. Does anyone know the meaning of this marking "⊕" ? I have no idea, evidence or record for this character...... It's similar to the emblem shape of Shimazu, who ruled Kagoshima, Japan...
I hope Contax experts in this forum have some information...

1752490977160.png
 
Hello. Is there any service manual for Contax IIA Shutter Capping? Thank you for your time.
Hello George: Not a manual, but I have notes on both the shutter capping and slow speeds hanging up, as well as a few other Contax IIa quirks. You can download all of my repair notes for free at Dropbox
- Look in the Zeiss Ikon folder to find the Contax IIa notes.
 
@ Shostka:
I browsed through the two books "On the Trail of the Contax" by Hans-Jürgen Kuc, but couldn't find a single picture showing such a marking.
Greetings to Tokyo from Austria 🙂
 
Thank you for your time. yoi so much
Hello George: Not a manual, but I have notes on both the shutter capping and slow speeds hanging up, as well as a few other Contax IIa quirks. You can download all of my repair notes for free at Dropbox
- Look in the Zeiss Ikon folder to find the Contax IIa notes.
Thank you for your time. yoi so much mr. Rick
 
Leicaflex SL MOT and similar would have markings under the pressure plate or in that vicinity to denote what 'sub' version they were or if they had been back to the factory for modification. By 'sub version' I mean variations in technical specification/manufacture not noticeable to the user.

Zeiss used a prefix letter added to the serial number on the Contax I. Maybe this mark was adopted later on.
 
@ Shostka:
I browsed through the two books "On the Trail of the Contax" by Hans-Jürgen Kuc, but couldn't find a single picture showing such a marking.
Greetings to Tokyo from Austria 🙂
Leicaflex SL MOT and similar would have markings under the pressure plate or in that vicinity to denote what 'sub' version they were or if they had been back to the factory for modification. By 'sub version' I mean variations in technical specification/manufacture not noticeable to the user.

Zeiss used a prefix letter added to the serial number on the Contax I. Maybe this mark was adopted later on.

Thanks for your reply! I suspect that the marking was engraved by an Japanese science equipment factory "Shimadzu Corporation", when the camera was imported to Japan before WW2. 1/4 inch screw for tripod, which is commonly seen on the cameras for asian region, also support the story... I will ask the company and visit its museum in Kyoto on August to consult the record they might keep. They also own microscope made by Leitz, that might have the same marking.

1753118468313.png

And about the tripod screw; do you know how the screw size was selected on Contax and its familes? My Super Nettel "for China", Contax "for Manchoukuo" and "Shimadzu" have all 1/4 inch screw and the other Super Nettel or Contax have the 3/8 inch. I'm wondering the screw was selected by customer or the distributor when ordering, or the Zeiss Ikon selected the screw depending on where to be exported... I'm also planning to visit specialist of large format camera and wooden tripod at Osaka.
 
Hello George: Not a manual, but I have notes on both the shutter capping and slow speeds hanging up, as well as a few other Contax IIa quirks. You can download all of my repair notes for free at Dropbox
- Look in the Zeiss Ikon folder to find the Contax IIa notes.
Rick, I used your notes many years ago when first opening up a IIa and found them very helpful...Thanks!!
I'm curious if you agree with my couple thoughts on the IIa/IIIa shutter: In my experience, lubrication to the #1 opening curtain shaft is a key step in solving high speed capping. Also, if the camera has been sitting for many years cocked, as they often are due to a stuck shutter, it could take 2+ spring tensioner clicks to make up for the relaxed spring, but never add more than needed to have everything run smoothly and quietly once lubricated.
For the slow speed escapement...once any old lubrication is removed with a good degreaser like lighter fluid or automotive brake cleaner, I've found very fine dry graphite to work well in it's place. This seems to be very reliable, especially if the camera may be used in cold conditions.
 
Thanks for your reply! I suspect that the marking was engraved by an Japanese science equipment factory "Shimadzu Corporation", when the camera was imported to Japan before WW2. 1/4 inch screw for tripod, which is commonly seen on the cameras for asian region, also support the story... I will ask the company and visit its museum in Kyoto on August to consult the record they might keep. They also own microscope made by Leitz, that might have the same marking.

View attachment 4872425

And about the tripod screw; do you know how the screw size was selected on Contax and its familes? My Super Nettel "for China", Contax "for Manchoukuo" and "Shimadzu" have all 1/4 inch screw and the other Super Nettel or Contax have the 3/8 inch. I'm wondering the screw was selected by customer or the distributor when ordering, or the Zeiss Ikon selected the screw depending on where to be exported... I'm also planning to visit specialist of large format camera and wooden tripod at Osaka.
I don't know anything about the 1/4 vs. 3/8 other than that any Contax I have had with the focusing marked in feet has had a 1/4" tripod socket and the ones marked in meters have had 3/8" tripod sockets. That may tell you the intended export market-the US and Britain prior to going metric.
 
I don't know anything about the 1/4 vs. 3/8 other than that any Contax I have had with the focusing marked in feet has had a 1/4" tripod socket and the ones marked in meters have had 3/8" tripod sockets. That may tell you the intended export market-the US and Britain prior to going metric.
Sounds interesting...!
 
Rick, I used your notes many years ago when first opening up a IIa and found them very helpful...Thanks!!
I'm curious if you agree with my couple thoughts on the IIa/IIIa shutter: In my experience, lubrication to the #1 opening curtain shaft is a key step in solving high speed capping. Also, if the camera has been sitting for many years cocked, as they often are due to a stuck shutter, it could take 2+ spring tensioner clicks to make up for the relaxed spring, but never add more than needed to have everything run smoothly and quietly once lubricated.
For the slow speed escapement...once any old lubrication is removed with a good degreaser like lighter fluid or automotive brake cleaner, I've found very fine dry graphite to work well in it's place. This seems to be very reliable, especially if the camera may be used in cold conditions.
Hi Larry:

That makes sense. In the IIa, the timing system shafts are vertical, the shutter drum shafts are horizontal and they’re connected by bevel gears - this is an arrangement that introduces side forces and extra friction in the bearings, so it’s very sensitive to dirt and lubrication, And the bearings aren’t particularly easy to reach for cleaning. Any hesitation in the #1 curtain will lead to fading or capping at the fast speeds, so thorough cleaning is critical.

For escapements, particularly in cameras that will be seeing a lot of shelf time, I like to let them run dry if they’re willing. If the surfaces of the pallet and star wheel are nice and smooth, it will usually run well without lubrication. If it doesn’t run smoothly dry, I apply the smallest possible drop of the thinnest possible oil to the bearings and teeth of the pallet and star wheel - nowhere else beyond that.

🙂=
 
Hi Larry:

That makes sense. In the IIa, the timing system shafts are vertical, the shutter drum shafts are horizontal and they’re connected by bevel gears - this is an arrangement that introduces side forces and extra friction in the bearings, so it’s very sensitive to dirt and lubrication, And the bearings aren’t particularly easy to reach for cleaning. Any hesitation in the #1 curtain will lead to fading or capping at the fast speeds, so thorough cleaning is critical.

For escapements, particularly in cameras that will be seeing a lot of shelf time, I like to let them run dry if they’re willing. If the surfaces of the pallet and star wheel are nice and smooth, it will usually run well without lubrication. If it doesn’t run smoothly dry, I apply the smallest possible drop of the thinnest possible oil to the bearings and teeth of the pallet and star wheel - nowhere else beyond that.

🙂=
Thank you so much Mr. Rick and Alen I made it. I lubricated the first curtain shaft. There is no capping✌🏻 But I bulb mode doesn't work😔 shutter fores very fast on Bulb mode. Do you have any advice for it?
 

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