Sunny f/16 Rule - how do **you** use it?

[digitaldave]

I've read up on the sunny f/16 rule, and I think I've got the hang of how it works. However, what I'd like to know is, assuming the sunny conditions alluded to in the name of the rule, do you tend to set f/16 and shutter = 1/film speed, or do you adjust settings as to achieve different artistic effects whilst maintining the same overall exposure as the rule dictates.

For example, using the rule with 100 ASA film, you would set f/16 and 1/125s and should get good exposures. But say you wanted to shoot with a lower DOF, so want to open up to f/4, would you just decrease the shutter speed by an appropriate amount? OR would you just stick to f/16?

Hope that makes sense 🙂.

Dave.

 

[Pherdinand]

f/16 to f/4 is not stopping down, it's opening up, f/4 results in a bigger hole which lets light through so you'll have to decrease the shutter time = increase shutter speed, as you write. So it makes sense, yes.

The film does not care what aperture and what sh speed, it cares about their combination, that is, about the total amount of light hitting it.

 

[digitaldave]

Oops, stopping down / opening up error corrected 🙂.

I know the filem is only interested in the overall combination, I want to know what you as a photographer prefer to do 🙂.

 

[Huck Finn]

Since you have opened your lens 4 stops wider, you have to increase your shutter speed by 4 stops to 1/2000 in order to achieve the same exposure. You can choose to over or under expose if that's the effect you are seeking.

 

[egpj]

You would adjust the aperature and the shutter speed as well. If when shooting 100 speed film in full sunlight the aperature is f16 the as you adjust your shutter speed the aperature needs to open up the corresponding stop. Lets see:

f16/125
f11/250
f8/500
f5.6/1000

If you are shooting with something like a leica then that is the end of that but with something like a Konica Hexar you could keep on going. Anyway, hope this makes sense.

 

[Keith]

Dave,

I highly recommend this guy's advice. It's my bible and the information is easy to understand!

http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm

Cheers from downunder...

 

[FrankS]

I would definitely adjust aperture and shutter speed to provide the same exposure as f16 @ 1/125sec with 100 speed film. I rarely want to use f16 as a working aperture.

 

[Bike Tourist]

Dave, the "sunny sixteen" is just a memory device to get the right exposure for a sunlit scene. You would then adjust your equivilant settings to taste, keeping the same relative exposure.

Later, you might also note the difference in exposure values for overcast, shade and so forth when you meter, so that eventually you can accurately guess the exposure in many conditions.

This is not really necessary with modern, accurate meters, but a good drill to give you confidence in your exposure settings. Also, useful in the event of a meter failure.

 

[VictorM.]

I use f/16 as a starting point. I rarely use flat, front light, so I also use:

Front light: Sunny 16
Side Light: open 1 stop
Back light (not close-up): open 2 stops
Back Light (close-up): open 3 stops
Open Shade: open 3 stops

These approximations work with Tri-X. Slower, contrastier films need more accurate exposure.

 

[kaiyen]

Also:

-clearly defined shadows: f16
-shdows with soft edges f11
-indistinct shadows (there, but very blobby): f8
-no shadows: f5.6

Then adjust by above lighting conditions (side, back) if those conditions make sense.

allan

 

[rovnguy]

Sunny 16 is a start, the I consider the sweet spot on the lens I'm using at the time, then I bracket in half stops (if possible). I actually fond of the aperture range from f5.6 to f/11.

 

[Flyfisher Tom]

Sunny 16 is merely the starting point, on a fully sunny day in N America, with the sun behind you directed at your subject.

then, here are the variations ...

-3 for dark shade or very cloudy days
-2 for light shade or generally cloudy days
-1 for less than full sunny 16 brightness

Take a handheld meter with you just strolling around (even without a camera). Practice guessing, and verifying the exposures, and sooner rather than later, you'll realize you are pretty good at guessing various light conditions. good luck