Talk to Me about Peru

ktmrider

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It looks like my daughter and I will be spending the first couple weeks of July in Peru. We are flying into Lima and Macchu Pitchu is on the schedule. Everything else is open.

Thanks.
 
Never been there, but from what a friend of mine who traveled to Perú two years ago told me, you want to hold on to your valuables all the time. Theft is rampant in all Latin America.
 
I was there last year. The conventional trip in Peru is to go from Lima to Cusco to Macchu Pichu, to the sites outside of Cusco (Sacred Valley, etc.), by bus through the Altiplano to Lake Titicaca (you would likely stay in Puno City). It is extremely important to spend a day in Cusco to acclimatize to the altitude (you will go from sea level to 14,000 feet in a <2 hour plane ride). It's a charming town with a lot of old colonial stuff to explore. Your trip back will be from the Puno City airport (barely capable ot taking jets) to Lima to the U.S.

Oh yes, and gear. For Macchu Pichu, you don't need ultrawide lenses unless you really want them; I used a GA645 and an X100, both with a 35mm FOV. Huayna Pichu (the 1400 foot peak above MP - see the picture below) is only accessible in the morning, must be booked in advance, and it can be very rainy. Bring plastic bags, a chest sling for your camera, and shoes with good grip. Cliff Bars are not a bad idea. Also take along some Valium if you have acrophobia. The views up there on Huyana Pichu can be vertiginous. Bracket like hell because you're not coming back.

When we did it, we got in touch with the Tucano Agency, which is owned by a British gentleman. They will set up accommodations and get you from the Cusco airport to your hotel. From there, they are very hands-off (we just had them supply a driver and we programmed the rest). I think they also have lead-you-by-the-hand programs as well if you're of that disposition/age. Brush up on your Spanish. You'll have a great time.

Dante

feature122.jpg
 
Peru is wonderful. There's a trip there for everyone.

Watch your bags. Give yourself a couple of days to get acclimated, go on hikes (if that's your thing), eat light, pack light, shop around.

Oh, and watch your bags.

I hiked from Mollepata to Aguas Calientes (4 days).

Here are some from the trip (excuse the google translate):

http://nitroimagens.com.br/nitronline/en/2011/09/21/historias-salve-salkantay/

and for Machu Picchu

http://nitroimagens.com.br/nitronline/2011/09/28/historias-la-ciudad-perdida/

Have fun! It's amazing.

A small camera like an X100 can go a long way.


I traveled with a GF1.

Cheers,
 
Dante has given you a very good overview. I have been to Peru several times and I absolutely love it. The views, particularly in the Andes, are absolutely magnificent. As Dante said, the altitude is the biggest problem you will face, do not try and plan to travel quickly on foot since you will need to let your body acclimatize. Planing an extra day in Cusco just to get feeling better is a great plan. Additionally, use bottled water for all your water needs, drinking, brushing teeth, etc.

In addition to photography, also plan on doing some shopping while in Cuzco. There are some beautiful shops. The woolen goods, made from Llama and Alpaca wool are beautiful, as well as very warm.

As for theft, I never had any problem. I personally doubt that it is any worse than any large city in the United States. Do keep your more valuable belongings on a short leash but I wouldn't worry excessively. While in any foreign country I keep my passport, credit cards and cash (in that order) on my person or locked in a safe. I also recommend making a couple photo copies of your passport and stashing them in different locations such as a suitcase and your jacket pocket. It isn't a legal document but it is certainly a start if you end up walking to a US Embassy dressed in nothing but your boots and hat. 😛

But most of all, just have fun. Like I said, it is a wonderful country and the people really are terrific. And don't forget to have a Pisco Sour while you are there.
 
I did a month in Peru & Bolivia last Oct/Nov.
Didnt see much of Lima. Spent a day waiting for our luggage.

We went from Lima to Paracas (Not much to see).
Paracas to Nazca (Apart from the lines, little to see, Chauchilla cemetery interesting on the way).
Nazca to Arequipa. ( start of Altitude
acclimatisation 2500m ish, Quite a nice town) First picture is Chachani (6300m) 1 of the 3 snow capped Volcanoes that surround Arequipa. 2nd pic is back of El Misti another Snow Capped Volcano on the way to Colca Canyon (pic 3)
F
rom there we went to Chivay & to the Colca Canyon, . Nice hot springs in Chivay, Colca Canyon very dramatic. High! between 3 & 4000m. You get up to 4800m on the pass above Chivay.

Cuzco & Sacred Valley. Must see really.
You will appreciate how much the Spanish destroyed of the Inka Architecture/Culture when you are there.
Go & look round the market in Cuzco. Nice selection of Cows lips on offer.
We did the Inka Trail. Are you? Fantastic, but hard work!
If you do the Inka Trail go to Sayakmarka ruins if you get the chance. You will probably be the only ones there. We were! Amazing!
Puno (pretty grim) & Lake Titikaka. Must see. We did a home stay. Played the locals at football. Hard work at 3300m. Brilliant experience.

From there we went to La Paz & then on to the salt flats & train graveyard (must see).

Pickpockets are there I am sure. But none of our party had any problems. Just be sensible. No valuables on show, keep your Camera in a bag when you can. One that does not look like a Camera bag!
I had problems with the batterys? in my Loan M9 at Altitude. Be aware.
 

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If you are going to fly from Lima (sea level) up to Cusco (2700m) you better be really careful and not walk around a lot for a day or two. I started trekking up to Macchu Picchu the minute the plane landed and got a monster altitude sickness for my bravery. It's like having a really, really bad hangover for two days. You definitely don't want that. From Cusco/M.P. onward there's a really scenic railway connection to Puno on the shores of lake Titicaca.

Peru is full of surprises and packed with history. It's one of the most beautiful countries I've ever seen.
 
Ktmrider - Mablo reminded me of two things about Machu Picchu: (1) take the bus up the mountain from Aguascalientes unless you want to hike for an entire day to get to the site (some people like that, some people don't - but the site is only open during daylight hours) and (2) of the two trains that go to MP, they are both nice. The Hiram Bingham Express is monstrously expensive (as you would expect being operated by the Orient Express) - Incarail has a great vistadome. It's 60 to 70 bucks, but it's not that much more than the cheap tickets.

If you are looking at sites between Cusco and MP, you can overnight and then catch the train at Ollantaytambo. It's a short ride in.

Dante
 
Great Replies

Great Replies

Thanks for the quick replies. I may rent or buy a motorcycle for a continued tour of SA. I live at 4000 ft msl and might spend a few days at 9000 ft at Cloudcroft, NM before heading south.
 
Well not to be redundant...

Well not to be redundant...

Watch your bags...

And wrap the equipment backpacks in chicken wire. Specialty bags are also made with a wire core in the strap.

This is to hopefully foil a common practice called "slash and grab", usually done in pairs. Sometimes on roller blades.

A "cutter" precedes a "grabber". The cutter uses a box or razor knife to slash the bottom of a camera or gear bag. The grabber comes along and snatches up the contents that fall to the ground, or hanging out of the bag. The wire embedded in the strap of a bag is to foil a cutter who slashes the shoulder strap.

A hardware store here in town carries a line of bags that have wire mesh sewn into the lining and a braided wire core in the shoulder strap.

When a group of us went to Peru in 1990, the govt of Peru, suggested we wait a year as it was the 200th anniversary of some spiritual hoodlum gang in the Andes. There had been some tourist deaths along the Andes Trail.

We waited a year (20 of us) and went. Had no problems, but we did do the chicken wire trick on our back packs as suggested by the government and a tourist agency.

Sorry, gotta tell it like it can be sometimes. I'm sure all other suggestions apply...Altitude sickness, Water warnings, Digestion issues.

We had a great time.

Enjoy the trip. Stay together. Don't wander in the jungles, but hell, you can't do that on the big island of Hawaii either, even now. (booby traps and armed guards on Marijuana patches everywhere)

Make the best of it.
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I may rent or buy a motorcycle for a continued tour of SA. I live at 4000 ft msl and might spend a few days at 9000 ft at Cloudcroft, NM before heading south.

That's a cool idea and something I hope to do in the future. I remember seeing more than a few small groups of riders along the way, a couple on BMW Dakkars and other similarly big bikes.
 
Update

Update

Tickets purchased last night. Will be doing Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca and then back to Lima. Will be taking M6 with 21/35/90 and X100.

Daughter speaks spanish and we will be joined by one of her friends who is teaching in Bolivia. Have a chance to purchase a KLR650 for$2000 and touring South America.

Thanks for advice.

By the way, if anyone is concerned about water quality when they travel, may I suggest you investigate a device called a Steripen. It is available at REI and other outdoor retailers. It purifies water using UV radiation. I used one in Nepal and throughout SE Asia purifying water for drinking out of the tap-takes 30 seconds for 1 liter.
 
I've heard the hike from Cuzco to Macchu Picchu is an amazing experience.

As said above, be careful with your stuff. In the group I was with several had cameras, passports, and money stolen on the streets and from rooms in fine hotels.

If I were to go again and had your gear, I'd take only the X100 or the M6 and 35. For me, always having to be on alert for theft really took some of the pleasure out of the trip.

John
 
Was there about 15 years ago. Loved it.

Most amazing thing I did was a hike in the Cordillera Blanca in the north. The Santa Cruz loop hike simply amazing. Also the hike to Machu Pichu was incredible.

I was traveling for several weeks and just took my Yashica T4 Super and a lot of Fuji slide film. Worked out great.

Crime wise I had a watch ripped off my wrist as I was getting off a bus in the north somewhere and gathering my stuff together (including a 7 foot double surfboard bag). Also I came in from Equador overland and all the money I changed at the northern border which is kinda sketchy turned out to be fake.

Spend some time in Cuzco, it's a fun town. If you can get to the north to Huaraz do it. Also Culca Canyon and Lake Titicaca are pretty amazing.

All in all one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Good surf too...
 
A Concealed Carry Bag....

A Concealed Carry Bag....

We planned a 20 person tour a few years ago, but did not complete it.

1) We were advised by the Peruvian govt not to go the year we wanted to. Some 200th year anniversary of a something, something brotherhood. Much crime anticipated on the Andes Trail and various. (Deaths and robberies did escalate that year.)

2) Various agencies suggested wrapping or lining backpacks with chicken wire to foil the "slash and grabbers". Often work in teams, one slashes, second follows and grabs fallout.

3) It occurs to me that since some bag companies make very nice bags for concealed carry handguns, that if your basic gear fits, get on. The benefit... the leather strap has a steel cable embedded to prevent a "slash and grab" such as I mentioned above. Such a bag is a routine bag, but has a zippered pouch on the body side with a slim holster inside. The bag itself comes in various sizes. (Oh Oh! I haven't started a "bag" search, have I?):bang:

Out of 20 midwesterner's, over half had very low risk tolerance, so the trip did not happen. Being born and bred in the wilder parts of the PNW, I was gung ho, but not so much that I wanted to go alone.

Never made it, but I am sure that, exercising caution and not drinking the water would make it exciting and rewarding photography wise.

Sorry to inject a downer side to foreign travel, but I just care so much for ALL OF YOU.
If you are a veteran foreign traveler, don't bother to visit this site. If not be sure to jump to page two, after looking at page one:


http://www.bugbog.com/travel_safety/travel_safety.html

NOTE: I did not mean to imply carrying a weapon or concealed handgun on such a trip.

The only place I feel threatened enough to do that is right here in the "Good Ole USA". The "Freedom" that I fought for does have it's down side.

I would never carry a "weapon of minimal destruction" or (WMD) across any of our borders into a foreign country. (Unless I were part of an invasion, legal, lied to, or otherwise) BTDT!
 
About ten years ago we did the five day hike from outside Cusco to outside Machu Picchu. We jumped onto the train into Machu Picchu at the point where most of the tourists get off the train to hike into Machu Picchu. The hike, all at elevation was spectacular as were the families we met along the way.

There were so many tourists at Machu Picchu that my sister and I felt we should have done this trip about 30 years earlier before it became so popular. However, we are far from typical tourists.

I did get really sick at elevation during the hike. I finally came down the mountain and spent a day recovering in Urubamba then jumped onto the train to catch up with our group. My day in Urubamba was incredible, probably my highlight of the trip. I spent the entire day with the locals, mostly at a the non touristic marketplace.

FWIW: I chewed the coco leaves until my jaw got sore. Drank the coco tea. None of it did a thing for me.
 
I have been to Peru four times, the first time an extensive tour (Lima, the Amazon, Cusco, the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the altiplano train from Cusco to Puno, visiting the Uros Islanders on Lake Titicaca) then subsequently to trek all over the Inca heartland including to Choquequirao, the remote sister citadel to Machu Picchu. You'll find much of interest. I wouldn't worry too much about theft. It might happen, anything might happen, but I didn't find it a noticeable problem. Just take prudent precautions and you should be OK. Certainly if you get to 3000m or above (e.g. Cusco or Lake Titicaca) you will need a few days to acclimatise. In contrast I never adjusted to the heat and humidity of the Amazon, although it was still interesting. Machu Picchu is of course fantastic. I viewed it first after trekking for four days along the Inca Trail. You've trekked for four days, this is the last stretch, you are excited and you know you are going to make it, you climb over the last ridge and BANG! there is the citadel spread out over the next ridge. It's more dramatic than taking a bus up from Agua Calientes, going throught the turnstiles and getting your first view when you are in it, although 'every which way' it's spectacular. Really any of the places I have mentioned are fascinating. Was there anything I didn't like? The relentless street sellers in Cusco get a bit trying after a couple of days. Beware the taxi drivers at Cusco airport. Find out the going rate beforehand and negotiate. What camera did I take? An Olympus SLR and two Zuiko's: a 24mm f2.8 and a 50mm f1.4. You will need a flash in the mountains if you want to deal with the extremely high contrast when photographing people. In fact I bought an OM2000 specially for the trip because it allows flash synchronisation at 1/125 sec. With a flashgun with a GN of 28 (100ASA, metres) I was just able to balance flash and ambient in the mountains when photographing people about 3 metres away. Also, you will need flash in the jungle because it's so dark.
 
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So, Talk to me about Peru

So, Talk to me about Peru

I agree with the advice about not being paranoid about theft. Just be smart and enjoy yourself.
It's a long time now - 40yrs, but I did 20,000 miles throughout Sth. American, in 7 months. Stayed a week at Machu Picchu, camping for free down by the river and first visited the ruins for several hours in the middle of the night with a full moon. Still see it all in B&W.
I'd suggest two things.
Keep your money, cards, and passport on your person. But use a dummy wallet that has enough cash to get you through a day or two and has old cards that won't allow anyone to access any of your accounts. I even have an expired drivers' license with the number removed. The whole thing looks legit and if it's stolen or more especially if you're asked to hand it over, the bad guy will depart.
Your appearance is an indicator of your potential for robbery. Rather ordinary clothing and ratty luggage is a good idea.
And if I was to return, I'd invest significantly more time and money exploring Bolivia. You'd like to see Cusco, etc., but Bolivia was significantly less jaded about tourists 40 yrs ago, and I suspect that's still the case.
Philip Barlow
 
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