Techniques for shooting (ultra) wide-angles

Dear wiedo,

Arjay said:
Good levelling is the secret for naturally looking 15mm Heliar shots. The lens produces severe perspective distortion if you use it without a levelling device, but virtually zero barrel distortion.

There are two ways to obtain pictures w/o perspective distortion:
  1. Use a spirit level during shooting like the CV level or an electronic levelling device like the Seculine Action Level Cross to level the camera when shooting, and make sure that the film/sensor plane is parallel to the plane of your main photo subject (e.g. a building front), or
  2. use Photoshop or PTLens to do perspective correction during digital post-processing (this can be tricky, but it is feasible, albeit at the price of reduced image resolution).
BTW, the CV 15mm finder produces heavy barrel distortion. I wonder if there is an alternative to this finder, because the CV finder's barrel distortion makes framing a matter of luck.
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you can buy a conventional "spirit level" made for cameras for less than EUR 10, e.g.:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wasserwaage-3..._Blitze_PM&hash=item19bb654b39#ht_2596wt_1643
http://cgi.ebay.de/Dual-Axis-Spirit...jektive_PM&hash=item3a51170790#ht_3625wt_1167
http://cgi.ebay.de/High-Precision-2...r_Blitze_PM&hash=item27ab7b82e5#ht_1304wt_941
 
The VC 15mm finder has terrible barrel distortion and is extremely difficult to level by eye sight alone. However, the VC right angle finder with the 15mm front element attached is very good for leveling.

With such wide angles I usually like something VERY close in the framing and I find 15mm in an RF not very good for 2 reasons: lack of close focus and just cant frame very accurately when something is that close. Apart from size and weight, nothing beats my Nikon 15mm f/3.5 AIS in this focal length :D
 
Radi(c)al, sure, I know conventional spirit levels, and I even own several of the two and three axis levels. The problem is (a) their rather slack manufacturing tolerances (every spirit level indicates another levelled position, and the differences between them are more than just several thenths of a degree), and (b) how to position them on an average Leica or Hexar.

The Seculine Action Level Cross comes with an accessory 'cold' shoe with little magnets on its corners, which enables easy positioning on iron/steel camera tops. Since my Hexar's top is made of titanium, I had to use double-sided adhesive tape to fasten the shoe. Not overly elegant, but it works.

What sets this level apart from others is the fact, that it effectively works as a three-axis level: Its LED display indicates two axes for levelling. What's invisible is the fact that it also provides dual axis levelling info if you use the camera in portrait mode! Additionally, the device features electronic calibration, so that it can even be used on home-made shoes that are not precisely level. Plus, its accuracy is said to be in the range of .2 degrees.

BTW - I'm not affiliated with Seculine in any way, I just happen to like this gadget.
 
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Finder said:
Didn't he notice you standing on his shoes? You must have been very close. This is a fun image.
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I held it out at arms-length digital style, only way I could get my knees out of shot, about 2ft from the subject, it was a Bessa L so he noticed the shutter going off but it was too late by then, I know him quite well anyway, we eat there a lot in the summer.
 
I've used a 15mm quite a bit on the streets, great lens really.

If you're using it at a medium distance, just try and stay level:

3517629668_b3341cbcaa.jpg


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However, where the lens really shines is getting close to your subjects:

3199869515_1e75230b1f.jpg


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ruby.monkey said:
Finding somewhere to mount it can be problematic. Pity Voigtlander discontinued the double shoe adapters.
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I've got one ;)

rbsinto said:
Oy!
Talk about a big problem!
You could make your own for $8.64 from the dreck you can get out of a bargain bin at a photo swap meet.
Two non-dedicated hot-shoes, and the cheapest, piece of junk flash you can find for the hot-shoe foot, a strip of aluminum or even plastic for the base, and a tube of 5-minute epoxy and you're in business.
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Let's ask rbsinto?
 











A couple in B+W and a couple in color all shot with the Voigtlander 15 4.5 ASPH on Leica M3/M6/M7 bodies.

As far as using the ultra wide angle everyone has a differnt style. And thats a good thing. Getting in close is certainly has merit, Just like keeping the camera level, pointing up, pointing down. Do it all. Let your subject lighting and creativity dictate how you use the lens. As well as what you are tying to covey in your photographic expression. There is no "right" one way for every subject, every single time. The challenge is to treat every single frame with the ultra-wide angle as a opportunity to get it right for that image. For me that often mean some raising of the camera/climbing or laying on my belly with my face in the dirt/snow/mud.

Best of luck.

Gregory
 









One way to get really good with the UWA is to shoot everything any anything. Sometimes it really helps your creativity to limit your choices.
For me shooting with the UWA is an valuable tool in the bag that Im rarely with out.

Gregory
 
Going through some old film recently found a few more with the 15mm on the streets:
4576506349_be2e8095f9.jpg


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Again for both of these I was fairly close. Something I've noticed is that I like a slow shutter speed with an ultra wide angle. The background kind of blurs out and the subject stays mostly sharp.
 
YES I AM PACO (KESQUIMO)
NO WORRY FOR VERTICALS . IS A HIGH QUALITY ULTRA WIDE. YOU CAN DO go unnoticed, WORKING WITH hyperfocal .
THE LENS IS GREAT WITH EPSON RD1. HE HAD GOOD RESULTS.
 
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