techniques of street snap shot...?

I kind of like the reply suggesting the use of a camera with AE. And, if you don't want to worry about pre-focusing, I think a Contax G2 outfit might be ideal - just point and shoot. Just my very, very humble amateur opinion.
 
I do both zone and hyperfocus.

With a 35mm, you need to get closer, so zone focus works better, since f8 @ 10ft gets you 6ft to 25ft approx.

With a 50mm, I can stay further back, so f16 it is @ 18ft, which is the hyperfocal, and gives me about 9ft on out.
 
I'm very new at the street photographer thing too, but have been trying. I like Oh Two's advice. It's good to be open about what you are doing. In my limited experience, it always seems better to say 'hi' and ask if they mind. The picture will be better, and it's a way to connect with people who you might otherwise not meet - isn't that what a lot of us are trying to do? be curious, ask questions, shake their hand, tell them what you are doing, whatever.

The other advice on shutter speed f/ is great too. Its no good to fuss with a meter and your camera once you pick a subject. Its about practice and being prepared.

I've a couple things that I would like to add.
- The wider the lens you use the slower the shutter speed can be.
- I have a Mamiya 7. I've attached a couple small tabs of tape to the lens barrel, so I can focus the camera at my waist by feel with my thumb.
- I have a few cameras that I use. I've noticed that the Mamiya and the old Canon RF are conversation starters (no funny T-shirt needed!). Someone always comes up to me and says "nice camera" , when they do I take their photo.

Thanks, for the good input on this thread.
 
The best shots are from people who want to pose for you...

i'm not against this but it will get you very different kind of shots from just walking around and shooting.
i very rarely engage my street subjects, sometimes after i shoot the pic.
 
rogue_designer said:
My preferred rig is loaded with 400 speed film (metered at 250 in my case), and either a 50 or 35mm lens - the 35 is especially nice, since it's deeper depth of field makes up for some focus difference if I'm in a hurry.
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I don't know why the rf should metered at 250 when using 400 speed film. may you elaborate?
 
no_doubt_kit said:
I don't know why the rf should metered at 250 when using 400 speed film. may you elaborate?
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If developing your own B&W, Over Exposing (or pulling) your film will give you a better Dynamic Range and make sure your Highlights and Mid tones are well exposed for detail.

If using Color and having a lab develop it. shooting at lower ISO (over exposure) will almost guarantee Highlights and Mid tones are captured with plenty of detail.

So by overexposure by 1/3 to 1 full (your preference in end results), you are helping the film record highlight detail and moving your mid tones a bit to the left (Histogram reference in editing scanned negs).

I use 1/3 more, or ISO 320 for 400 Color Neg Film.
 
My fav way is also hyper focal distance at f8 or f11(when there's plenty of light) I usually shoot 125th sec or sometime's 1/60th when there's less light..

Depends on what my ambient light meter says..

I really like to use tri-x 400 rated/developed as 240 ISO in Perceptol..
 
Hi,
Great advice so far. I recognise a lot of what has been said.
I usually use a 28 or 35 mm lens. Pre focus and pre meter. When I come into another place I can change that. This setup is for the unexpected fast shot.
I also come in places where something is already happening and I anticipate on a scene coming. Then you can get prepared and just wait and fire at the right moment.
Don't act suspicous. I learned that when you sneak on people with a long big lens they will spot you right away and feel being spyed on. On the contrary they sometimes don't notice me when I'm a few meters away with a wide angle.
Be open, you're a photographer and photographers make pictures. If somebody asks what you're doing just explain them that this is what you do. Be nice and make a compliment on how they look. It works. Winogrand worked like this and I saw in a documentary that Martin Parr also works like this.
It is all about self confidence and knowing what you do and why you are doing it.

Cheers,

Michiel Fokkema
 
"I don't know why the rf should metered at 250 when using 400 speed film. may you elaborate?"

This makes sense if you think about the Sunny 16 rule. With 400 speed film, Sunny 16 says the correct exposure on a bright, sunny day will be 1/500 at f16. Setting the shutter at 1/250 has the effect of overexposing a full stop. Setting the meter to 250 would have the same effect across the board. At least, that's how it seems to me.

BTW -- This is turning out to be a really informative thread. Thanks for starting it.
 
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Here's what I've gotten accustomed to:
35mm focal length, f5.6-f11 for depth of field, zone focus to 10ft, memorize settings for sunny & shadow so it's ready and I don't have to think about it.
j
 
So if you guys are overexposing the film (250 @ 400ASA) I guess the film has to be develloped at 400 ASA. Or is there also use for exposing a 400 asa film at 250ASA and then develloping it at 250ASA?

Roel
 
Roel said:
So if you guys are overexposing the film (250 @ 400ASA) I guess the film has to be develloped at 400 ASA. Or is there also use for exposing a 400 asa film at 250ASA and then develloping it at 250ASA?

Roel
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If you are talking C41 process film, Then I believe there is no compensation in Developing times for ISO changes. What you are effectively doing is OVER EXPOSING and Developing NORMALLY.

This will give you Negs that print darker. The film does have a one stop either way in latitude that is still easily printed or scanned. But 2 stops over (100 ISO) or 2 stops Under (1600 ISO) can be problematic in Shadows or Highlights.

If I remember:

Too Much Over Exposure can Block Shadows.
Too Much Under Exposure can Block Highlights (not enough exposure to render detail)
I am talking NEGITIVE FILM, NOT SLIDE. Which is reversed.
 
kmack said:
Frank has a point here.
Using my Canon 1.8/50

Scale focus: if I am set at f8 the area of acceptable sharpness is from about 8 feet to 14 feet when focused at 10 feet.

The hyperfocal distance is 30 something feet and extends from about 17 feet to infinity.


You can get all that from f/distance scale on the lens.
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This how I set my lens's too, CV25 or 55mm. I set a zone of focus that I am comfortable with. Usally with CV25- 3f-10f @ F/8 (1.5m Click).

With the 55mm, I shoot at F11 focused at 2.5m, for 6f-13f roughly. But here I most bring the Rf up to frame. Not so with the 25mm

Sometimes I will use the Hyper-Focus with the 55mm too, which gives me 7f-Inf at F/11
 
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a little trick...

a little trick...

i'm suprised it wasn't mentioned but here goes... when i'm out street shooting (people that is) i meter my palm in the direct sun and in the shade at the chosen f stop (usually f8) and film speed. then i memorize those two readings and simply switch back and forth accordingly, generally ignoring the m6's meter (which is a good idea for street work).
i preset my focus for a chosen distance... say 8-10 feet back from a telephone pole, and shoot within that range for most of the day.
seems to work pretty consistent for me.
the reading of the palm is really when you're after people and faces. you can meter anything similair to your "target" and use said settings.
 
emraphoto said:
i'm suprised it wasn't mentioned but here goes... when i'm out street shooting (people that is) i meter my palm in the direct sun and in the shade at the chosen f stop (usually f8) and film speed. then i memorize those two readings and simply switch back and forth accordingly, generally ignoring the m6's meter (which is a good idea for street work).
i preset my focus for a chosen distance... say 8-10 feet back from a telephone pole, and shoot within that range for most of the day.
seems to work pretty consistent for me.
the reading of the palm is really when you're after people and faces. you can meter anything similair to your "target" and use said settings.
Click to expand...

That exactly what I do. Just tend to use the back of my hand. And using the 24mm will give almost no problems regarding focussing errors.
Roel
 
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