Test Photos from my deck with x100

I think i have hijacked this thread from the original topic, but good information nonetheless :)
@Catto, why didn't i think of this :bang: sometimes the obvious is not so obvious!
 
Catto said:
Isn't the simplest answer to rotate the filter on your Rangefinder and watch the meter as you do - when it gets to maximum effect (ie. lowest shutter speed or largest aperture) you'll know from the reading...if you go past that point it'll start getting brighter again, and your meter will indicate that as well.

Of course, on the X100 the EVF or rear LCD will be a much easier option; and of course with any digital camera, you can take as many test shots as you like to check the polariser's position.
R
Click to expand...

Real rangefinders don't have meters. :)
 
I think most Polarisers have a white mark on them; you rotate that so it's pointing to the sun and away you go. If you're doing landscapes and want to be sure you can always take it of, have a look through and put it back on. There's a simple formula involving "Brewster's Angle" (which is so simple I can't remember it) which tells when most of the polarisation tkes place.
 
Ah, the age-old prejudice ... ;)

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quoted from Wikipedia.de
 
Actually the question about using a polarising filter is a good one. The same issue applies with graduated neutral density (grad ND) filters that I use frequently. The X100 viewfinder system seems ideal.

Now I wonder about using a 10-stop ND filter (not graduated) for long moving water and cloud exposures. That filter lets just 1/1000 of the ambient light through. I wonder If I can still use the OVF and manually focus? I think the manual focus indicators will still require more light through the lens, or perhaps the manual focus system and focus distance indicators rely upon an internal memory of the position of the lens elements? And even more importantly, how will the sensor cope with two or three minute exposures? Will it overheat and get the banding problems that some other sensors exhibit?
 
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