Testing F3's MD-4 without the body attached

[helvetica]

I picked up a non-functioning F3+MD4 combo the other day, and promptly restored the F3 to full function by separating the camera from the motor drive and installing the button batteries.

Now I am trying to determine if the MD4 is operational or salvageable. The camera has film in it now, so I cannot attach it back yet. I cleaned all of the slightly corroded contacts and put in a set of rechargeable AA's into the holder. The battery holder measures 7.4 volts across the contacts, so I know that the battery pack works.

When I plug the battery pack into the MD4, is there a way to test the motor drive? pressing the MD4's shutter in the various settings as well as the button next to the LED's does not result in any activity.

 

[presspass]

Did you test the batteries with the battery check button on the drive/camera? You should get two red lights. If you don't, the power isn't reaching the motor. I have used F3s with MD4 drives for nearly 20 years and have never had a motor fail, even following drops that damaged the cameras. I assume you cleaned the contacts inside the drive housing as well as those on the battery holder. Did you also clean the contacts on the top of the motor and on the base of the camera? If you did all of this, the motor probably needs repair or replacement - replacing it would be cheaper. I've never tried to test a motor when it wasn't mounted on a camera. I will try this tonight and see what happens. I'll get back to you tomorrow.

 

[nobbylon]

8 x AA should read more than that, more like 12+

 

[presspass]

I should have read the original post more carefully. I have had issues with rechargable AAs in the MD4 drive. Try some alkaline batteries and see if that makes a difference. Sorry for the omission.

 

[rbsinto]

I picked up a non-functioning F3+MD4 combo the other day, and promptly restored the F3 to full function by separating the camera from the motor drive and installing the button batteries.

Now I am trying to determine if the MD4 is operational or salvageable. The camera has film in it now, so I cannot attach it back yet. I cleaned all of the slightly corroded contacts and put in a set of rechargeable AA's into the holder. The battery holder measures 7.4 volts across the contacts, so I know that the battery pack works.

When I plug the battery pack into the MD4, is there a way to test the motor drive? pressing the MD4's shutter in the various settings as well as the button next to the LED's does not result in any activity.

Simple enough to remove the film in mid-roll.
Note the number on the frame counter. Press the rewind button on the bottom of the camera and slowly rewind the film.
When the leader slips out of the take up spool, you'll hear a "click".
Stop rewinding and open the back, and the film leader will be sticking out of the cartridge.
To re-install the film, put a body cap on the camera, and advance the film to one frame beyond the number you noted before you removed it, and you're ready to go.
I've been doing this for almost 40 years without problems.
Robert

 

[Calzone]

I saw at Adorama a salesman test a MD-4 alone buy using a coin to short all the contacts and pressing the shutter release. I personally would not do this.

I bought a few MD-4's as spares and discovered that one did not sound right and another didn't work because the one that I had was sounding tired. Currently I own two: one to use and a spare.

I think I paid about $15.00-$20.00 each. Seemed wise to stock up.

Good luck.

Cal

POSTSCRIPT: KEH has one in excellent condition currently for $16.00.

 

[helvetica]

I think I paid about $15.00-$20.00 each. Seemed wise to stock up.

Good luck.

Cal

POSTSCRIPT: KEH has one in excellent condition currently for $16.00.

Hah! This is exactly what i was counting on. The F3 works great which is all that I really needed, the MD4 was going to be a bonus for the grip, as I am used to a Canon 1D sized camera. I don't have any intention of going the full 5+ FPS with it as that is more in the realm of digital cameras these days. It is a lot cheaper to go "clicka-clicka-clicka-clicka-clicka" with a digital camera!!

 

[Calzone]

Hah! This is exactly what i was counting on. The F3 works great which is all that I really needed, the MD4 was going to be a bonus for the grip, as I am used to a Canon 1D sized camera. I don't have any intention of going the full 5+ FPS with it as that is more in the realm of digital cameras these days. It is a lot cheaper to go "clicka-clicka-clicka-clicka-clicka" with a digital camera!!

The F3 was really designed to be used with a motordrive. The film transport has bearings to get the frame rate and for durability. Built to last.

BTW because of your thread I found a rare MF-18 databack at KEH that prints the date inbetween frames. I whish all my film cameras did this. A few years ago I found one and today I found another. Many thanks.

Cal

 

[Noserider]

Cal, nice score on the MF-18 been looking to stumble on one of those one day. While I agree that the F3 was designed with the motor drive integrated (and thats the way I used it 100% until Convinced Otherwise) a fellow Nikon Newshooter in the early 90's pointed out that "the F3 is a different camera without the motor". He was correct in my view; and I became a better shooter after I learned when to take off the motor and use it in a more subtle, perhaps refined capacity. It aint No Leica M thats for sure but for some young hotshot used to blazing away on the MD-4 with MN-2's but the trim F-3 (or in my case F-3P) seemed downright stealthy. I find it so curious to follow along this conversation about MD-4's since it seems from forum readings and personal experience with others that most folks now use the F-3 without the motor. Back in the day it was more likely to only see them with motodrives; it was usually put on right out of the box and never taken off.

 

[Noserider]

Oh and using S is rather a nice experience; you get to feel the smooth torque of the motor moving and stopping the film. The MD-4 is really one of anyone's best motor drives ever and if you have an F3 you owe it to yourself to at least try one.

 

[helvetica]

You have summed up my expectations! I really don't intend on using it in C mode, but I have always wanted to try it for the ergonomics. I have used an F3 in the past and an F2 currently without the motor drives, and they are indeed refined and special machines in their own right.

 

[newsgrunt]

There's a cover on the baseplate to use the motor (motor rewind) that needs to be removed so you could rewind the film, then reload after removing said cover.

 

[helvetica]

There's a cover on the baseplate to use the motor (motor rewind) that needs to be removed so you could rewind the film, then reload after removing said cover.

Sadly that cover was lost by the previous owner and not included. I currently have a bit of duct tape shamefully covering the exposed hole as a very temporary solution. It tragically looks like people are selling that tiny cover for the same price that you can get an entire motor drive!

 

[Rob-F]

8 x AA should read more than that, more like 12+

Even the rechargeable batteries should read more than 7.4 volts. Whether they are rechargeable alkalines or Nicads, the open circuit voltage should be around 1.2V times 8, or around 9.6V. It sounds like one (and probably two) of the batteries are no good. I would check them individually.

 

[Calzone]

Cal, nice score on the MF-18 been looking to stumble on one of those one day. While I agree that the F3 was designed with the motor drive integrated (and thats the way I used it 100% until Convinced Otherwise) a fellow Nikon Newshooter in the early 90's pointed out that "the F3 is a different camera without the motor". He was correct in my view; and I became a better shooter after I learned when to take off the motor and use it in a more subtle, perhaps refined capacity. It aint No Leica M thats for sure but for some young hotshot used to blazing away on the MD-4 with MN-2's but the trim F-3 (or in my case F-3P) seemed downright stealthy. I find it so curious to follow along this conversation about MD-4's since it seems from forum readings and personal experience with others that most folks now use the F-3 without the motor. Back in the day it was more likely to only see them with motodrives; it was usually put on right out of the box and never taken off.

You are a lucky owner of a F3P. I love mine which was a real press camera once owned by the newspaper "Newsday," and it had been used to cover Operation Desert Storm. I bought it just after it had come back from the war and just after it got overhauled by Nikon.

I have really gotten spoiled by the ergonomics of the F3P: the faster loading (no secondary door lock); the bigger controls; the weatherproofing; and being able to get those extra frames from a roll.

I also own a F3HP that I rigged without a motor drove. It is a very elegant camera. I recovered it in mucho soft Italian goat leather, and somehow I found a rare aftermarket grip here in the classifieds. The MF-18 databack has this raised ridge that works like a thumbs up. There is such a strong aftermarket and Nikon made mucho-mucho accessories over the 14 years of production that it is almost like having F3 "al la carte."

A helpful hint is use an AH-4 Handstrap. Basically the ergonomics are like wearing the camera like a glove in your right hand where it is ready to shoot. Five pounds around your neck is fatiguing, but be aware you are carrying a deadly weapon in plain sight. Be aware that one time my F3P rigged with its MD-4 and AH-4 got mistakened for a handgun in Queens Plaza here in NYC where I live. I watched this guy duck for cover. LOL.

Cal

 

[Calzone]

Sadly that cover was lost by the previous owner and not included. I currently have a bit of duct tape shamefully covering the exposed hole as a very temporary solution. It tragically looks like people are selling that tiny cover for the same price that you can get an entire motor drive!

I think DAG had them for a few dollars not long ago. Sometimes they come with a MD-4. There's a drawer built into the MD-4 to store it.

Cal

 

[helvetica]

I think DAG had them for a few dollars not long ago. Sometimes they come with a MD-4. There's a drawer built into the MD-4 to store it.

Cal

I will have to check it out, as that drawer was the first thing I checked when inspecting the MD-4.

In some ways, what I really want is a 3D printed contraption that is about the same size and shape as the MD-4, with shutter buttons in both the normal and portrait orientations, but otherwise adds no functionality. Gain all of the egronomics of a D3/D4/1D but none of the weight or complexity.

 

[Calzone]

I will have to check it out, as that drawer was the first thing I checked when inspecting the MD-4.

In some ways, what I really want is a 3D printed contraption that is about the same size and shape as the MD-4, with shutter buttons in both the normal and portrait orientations, but otherwise adds no functionality. Gain all of the egronomics of a D3/D4/1D but none of the weight or complexity.

H,

Be aware that Nikon made a secondary shutter release that is basically an electrical switch that mounts on the MD-4 (screws into) if you like having a separate shutter release for shooting verticals. I think it is called a "MR-2." Another inexpensive accessory.

Also know that if you use a MD-4 it is a good idea to remove the baseplate battery since it no longer supplies power to the meter.

Cal

 

[helvetica]

Be aware that Nikon made a secondary shutter release that is basically an electrical switch that mounts on the MD-4 (screws into) if you like having a separate shutter release for shooting verticals. I think it is called a "MR-2." Another inexpensive accessory.

Yes! I was looking into those for my F2AS that i foolishly sent to ebay when i made my great Nikon -> Canon migration a few years ago. Truly I regret selling that more than anything else!

 

[rbsinto]

H,

Be aware that Nikon made a secondary shutter release that is basically an electrical switch that mounts on the MD-4 (screws into) if you like having a separate shutter release for shooting verticals. I think it is called a "MR-2." Another inexpensive accessory.

Also know that if you use a MD-4 it is a good idea to remove the baseplate battery since it no longer supplies power to the meter.

Cal

It's proper name is a "terminal shutter" and it works on the MD-1, 2, 3, 11, 12, and 15 as well as the MD-4.
I have one which cost me nickels and dimes when I bought it new about 30-odd years ago. I used it mostly as a connector for a cable release.