dejavu
Member
Hi Rangefinder forum folks,
First time posting photos here and first time out on a proper photo shoot with my new X-Pro1.
These were shot at Half Moon Bay near Melbourne, Australia.
Fuji X-Pro1 with 35 f/1.4 XF on tripod + HiTech 1.2 ND Grad.
Impressions: The EVF was a mixed blessing for sunset shoots when there is a mix of super bright sun and dark foreground. The EVF really helped to brighten up the foreground to allow accurate focusing but it dimmed the view when the sun is in the frame. When this happens, you can't see anything at all. I guess there is not good work around to this (from their point of view). In a DSLR's viewfinder, human eyes' dynamic range is far greater, and thus much easier to work with. Using ND grad with the XPro1 is surprising easy. You half press the shutter, then move the grad to adjust the "zone". When the shutter is half pressed, you can easily see the transition. If the shutter is not pressed, the EVF keep compensating for changes in exposure, and thus, it's exceedingly difficult to see any changes.
Lastly, I love the optical quality of the 35 f/1.4. However, it flares quite badly when you shoot directly into the sun. It flares far more than my Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L. Conventional wisdom dictates that an optically complex zoom lens will have more flare, but this is not the case. The flare situation is worsened by the ND Grad filter.
First time posting photos here and first time out on a proper photo shoot with my new X-Pro1.
These were shot at Half Moon Bay near Melbourne, Australia.
Fuji X-Pro1 with 35 f/1.4 XF on tripod + HiTech 1.2 ND Grad.
Impressions: The EVF was a mixed blessing for sunset shoots when there is a mix of super bright sun and dark foreground. The EVF really helped to brighten up the foreground to allow accurate focusing but it dimmed the view when the sun is in the frame. When this happens, you can't see anything at all. I guess there is not good work around to this (from their point of view). In a DSLR's viewfinder, human eyes' dynamic range is far greater, and thus much easier to work with. Using ND grad with the XPro1 is surprising easy. You half press the shutter, then move the grad to adjust the "zone". When the shutter is half pressed, you can easily see the transition. If the shutter is not pressed, the EVF keep compensating for changes in exposure, and thus, it's exceedingly difficult to see any changes.
Lastly, I love the optical quality of the 35 f/1.4. However, it flares quite badly when you shoot directly into the sun. It flares far more than my Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L. Conventional wisdom dictates that an optically complex zoom lens will have more flare, but this is not the case. The flare situation is worsened by the ND Grad filter.
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gdi
Veteran
Very nice - I would enjoy seeing larger versions of these.
GaryLH
Veteran
I have not noticed big flare issues on Fuji lenses. But yes it does happen. I have lens hoods on all my lenses... But also thru habit thru all the years I have been taking pictures, either move around until I can find a place to shot which will not cause flare or use my free hand to add additional shading protection.
Thanks for sharing...An interesting technique w/ graduated nd filter.
Gary
Thanks for sharing...An interesting technique w/ graduated nd filter.
Gary
willie_901
Veteran
Whenever the EVF becomes problematic why not switch to the OVF?
There's a reason the camera has two finders.
There's a reason the camera has two finders.
Tejasican
Well-known
Is there no way to hyperfocus something like those sunsets on the X-Pro? Or does that require the old school glass?
GaryLH
Veteran
There is a distance scale at bottom of ovf/evf when using Fuji af lenses
There is a distance scale at bottom of ovf/evf when using Fuji af lenses
When display is set to custom mode, there is a distance scale at bottom of display... Evf/ovf/LCD.
As u change your f-stops a green bar moves around the area of the distance u are focused at giving u an idea of dof. The Fuji implementation of the dof zone is a bit conservative.
Gary
There is a distance scale at bottom of ovf/evf when using Fuji af lenses
When display is set to custom mode, there is a distance scale at bottom of display... Evf/ovf/LCD.
As u change your f-stops a green bar moves around the area of the distance u are focused at giving u an idea of dof. The Fuji implementation of the dof zone is a bit conservative.
Gary
dejavu
Member
I was using ND Grads. It's inconvenient having to keep switching between the two. Subject framing is more crucial with close foreground so I prefer to use the EVF for that.
dejavu
Member
Gary, I always use the hood too. Mainly to protect the lenses. Now I will certainly keep an eye out for flares when shooting. On my old system, I never have issues so I grew more negligent of this issue. I was looking for the drama of having the sun in the frame but seems like it is not possible.
GaryLH
Veteran
Sometimes stopping down also helps.. But mainly when the flare is initiated from the corners as opposed to straight on. Stopping down past f11 can cause some loss of sharpness, but on the other hand can introduce some interesting affects as well.
cheers
Gary
willie_901
Veteran
With 16 megapixels you could frame with the OVF, crop and not suffer very much. With mechanical rangefinder camera that's exactly what people do.
Still you are entirely correct, EVFs are inferior to a 100% DSLR or large format ground glass finder in the specific circumstance you describe.
Still you are entirely correct, EVFs are inferior to a 100% DSLR or large format ground glass finder in the specific circumstance you describe.
dejavu
Member
I am still getting used to this camera system after switching from the Canon 1Ds mark 2. I love both systems, but just need to work out what is the best practice with the XPro1 in the field.
Ideally, I would love to use only the OVF for everything. However, I am nervous about the lack of focus confirmation in the OVF in the sense that you don't get a feel of precisely what the camera is focused on.