Testprinting need help

haffy

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Mar 24, 2013
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Hi,
I am trying to learn my basic darkroom setup (Leitz Focomat 1c color), and have now printed larger than I usually do to se a bigger picture/more details with my bare eyes. To se how the grain looks and how the dynamic range is.
I have here two different films developed and printed with the same cemicalls and the same way.

* Film developed with Rodinal, ilford stop, ilford rapidfixer.
* Paper (ilford multigrade M44 24x30,5cm) developed with ilford multigrade, ilford stop, ilford rapidfixer.

This first one is a Tri-X @ 400.
IMG_3851_905.jpg


This secound one is Rollei Retro 400S @ 400.
IMG_3852_905.jpg


Picture of the both to see the difference.
IMG_3859_905.JPG


I like how the Tri-X handles the light areas and how the Rollei handles the dark areas, or is this just beacuse the Rollei is a darker negative?

But I do not like how the Tri-X feels flat, no real darkness to it. Can I use ilford multigrade filters to make it pop more, or is these just to handle the "to bright" or "to dark" of the entire image, should I instead crank up the time instead?
 
Thanks for the quick answer, I will try to answer here..

I have an Leit Focomat 1c color (I think it is called color as that is what the dude I bought it from called it), it looks like this.
IMG_3855_905.jpg


And as we are on the focomat, what's a condenser?

The paper I am using is multigrade, and can be used with ilford multigrade filters. I think that is what you are calling poly filters (Kodak did make the right?).

I have these, I think one is for when making color prints and one is the multigrade filters for the contrast.
IMG_3856_905.jpg


And do anyone know how to use this?
IMG_3857_905.jpg
 
Cibachrome filters are for printing in color from slides. Multigrade filters are for contrast, #2 being about normal. With 35mm maybe #3.
 
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