Thanks to Peter for advice on film picker

SolaresLarrave

My M5s need red dots!
Local time
5:30 PM
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
7,662
Location
DeKalb, IL, USA
Thanks to Peter for the advice!

I just got this thingy from eBay. He said in this forum that this is the kind he uses, and this afternoon I practiced for a while with it.

I'm getting better.

Now... if I only could remember which of our Peters he was... but thanks anyway! 🙂

Now... here's the gizmo! The pic, by the way, is from "camera accesories," the seller.

a6_1.JPG
 
One thing... I used to refer to these things as "film retrievers."

Should I make a poll? 😕

In any case, they work like a charm! Now... I'm onto chemicals, developing tanks and spools.
 
This is an all-plastic, "made in India," gloriously ephemeral film retriever, Joe. There's nothing metallic about it.

Now... if things go the way I want, I'll shop (not buy) for spools and tanks tomorrow. Containers and chemicals will come later, when I finally master putting film through the spools and can do it in the dark (or in a bag).

So, to me, the film retriever is just a very small step. 🙂
 
I'm a newbie too....and I found it much easier to just rewind far enough that it still leaves a leader, then take it out of the camera. I trim it and wind it on to the reel in the bag while the film is still in the cassette....I just find it easier to control the wind by pulling about 6" of film out at a time, and winding until I feel the cassette hit my fingers, then repeating until the end, then just tearing the film off at the cassette. I found I had less chance of twisting or mis-winding the film that way. Of course, if you have an auto-rewind camera then you need one of these film retrievers.
A tank and chemicals are cheap......and you can usually find used graduating cylinders at a camera shop. Practice a few times with a cheap film then give it a shot....premix everything and have all your ducks in a row....I had no problem at all first time, and I'm a clutz.
But get a bag....I found it difficult to do in total darkness. First time I did it I even put the tank in the bag fully assembled....took it apart in the bag and laid everything out where I knew I could find it easily (instead of groping for stuff in a darkroom.) Remember you need 2 reels in a two-film tank, even if you're only developing one film, the empty upper one keeps the reel with the film at the bottom and in the developer. Sounds obvious but two guys lost their films at class, one by putting his film on the upper instead of lower reel so it wasn't in the developer, and the other by not putting in a second reel, and the lower reel slid up the spindle when he agitated and the same thing happened.
In another case, 3 people thought they'd save some money and go splits on a hundred sheet box of Ilford photo paper....we all watched as they popped open the box in class and happily divvied it up 33 each...guess they thought it was inkjet paper. Pretty funny but they didn't think so after spending $44...
Photo101 was easily the funnest Continuing-Ed course I ever took, and just today I've come home with an immaculate Saunders enlarger with all the fixings for ridiculously cheap.
I love scanning and printing my negs on my Photosmart at home, but AFAIC wet work blows it away in fun, self satisfaction, and quality.
Mike
 
jcline said:
Why not just use a can opener?

I'll second that. Pulling the film through the felt a thirdtime after the exposed roll has been rolling (excuse pun) around in mypocket seems like a surefire way to scratch film. Cassettes peelapart very nicely with an old style crown cork opener, but I suppose it's what you feel best about.

Mark
 
Let's clarify something here.

I'm a total newbie when it comes to developing. I've never done it in my life, and I'm looking for ways to start it off by myself, self-taught, but also collecting all the experience other people can supply (thanks for your post, Mike! 🙂 )

Hence, sorry but no can opener yet, until I've mastered the technique of spooling the film.

Second, thanks for the suggestion. I'll grab a couple of rolls of film to practice spooling it and "developing" (of course, I'll "mock-develop" some). My intention is:

a) Get the film leader out of the canister.
b) Learn how to thread it into the spool, directly from the canister.
c) Put the spool in the developing tank.
d) Close said tank.
e) Pour in chemicals. BTW, I intend to use diafine, as I've learned you don't have to worry about temperatures and you can wash the film with water; more research on this needed, and I'm sure Oscar will supply the details. Otherwise, there's a thread somewhere here called "The Diafine Diaries.
f) Agitate as directed
g) Clean film with water, run it with a squeegee, hang it to dry in my shower (relatively free of dust)
h) Cut negatives and scan them.

Of course, these are just the steps I intend to take. And I must train myself to do it first... the same way I trained myself to load a Leica in the dark for all the times I use infrared film.

Again... where's Peter when one wants to thank him? I think he's the one who lives in Boston and shoots an M7.
 
a) I don't understand why you can't just peel the cannister like an orange. That's what I do. Grab and rip. Tear off the end caps if they get in the way. Takes like one second.

b) Diafine is two-solution, so developing is two-steps.

c) The best tank I've ever found is the Kodak Kodakcraft.

http://www.nwmangum.com/Kodak/FTank-3.html

It does not use reels of any kind - more like an apron or ribbon. Simplicity itself to load - you can't do it wrong.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=5629

The aprons are still sold by Freestyle for 99 cents each - MF or 35mm. They sell a tank too, but it only holds one roll at a time. If you want two rolls at a time, get an original Kodacraft tank off eBoy - dead cheap and lots of 'em out there.

The only drawback is no inversion - agitate without inverting. This is not a problem and I've never been bothered by it.

Anyway, that's my rant. Enjoy developing!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Congrats on your new film retriever and for the step you're taking into the real world of darkness 😎

Francisco, be it metal or plastic reels, I STRONGLY recommend you to get a dummy roll and practice loading it onto the reels under daylight.

That way you can get familiar with how it loads and what kind of touch you should expect when doing it in darkness. You have to rely on your hands and ears there to spot if something is going wrong (it's usually really easy to notice 😛)

I used to pop open the casettes with a can opener but some of them were quite reluctant to work with so since a while ago what I do is:

a) when rewinding, be sure to leave the film leader out.

b) If I fail and put it inside, before going into the darkroom I use the film picker thingie. I also like to first cut straight on the film leader to get rid of the first couple inches of reversed curl. Finally I usually trim a bit the corners to make them rounder.

c) once loaded, remember to put that locking clip in the central column if youre only developing one reel at a time, otherwise the reel could move to top during inversions.

d) As for pouring inside chemicals, I pretty much follow the Diafine box recommendations. First, Diafine A in. A couple slight bump-bumps to get rid of bubbles and first couple inversions. Not too gentle, not too vigorous.

I do maybe 2-3 inversions in that way to the tank while Diafine A is inside during 3+ minutes. Don't worry if it's 4, or 5 or even 6. Nothing dramatic will happen.

e) Pour Diafine A out the tank (and inside its bottle, the whole key is reusability with this thing). With time the solution gets uglier, usually turns slightly grey. After a ClassicPan film soup it got a tasty pink. Again, don't worry 🙂

Be sure to pour out all the Diafine you can, btw, you can help by shaking a bit the tank. (this is why the central column clip is indeed important)

f) Now time for B. Repeat the same as with A. Pour in. Initial bump-bump, maybe 3 couple inversions while it's there. 3+ minutes (I read you can get more contrasty negs by leaving it less time). Pour out, shaking a bit in the last drops.

BTW) I use to rinse the 'embudo' I use to help put chemicals inside in the bottle between processes, so you don't contaminate one with the other. You CAN get some A in the B bottle as it's indeed normal, but DO NEVER allow any of B enter the A bottle. Remember, A is like a bottle full of C4, and B is the detonator 😉 It won't explode, but all A will get activated and become unuseable.

g) Stop bath / wash. I use plain tap water for this step. What I do is fill the tank till water comes out from the top. Then put lid. Invert 5-10 times. Pour out. Repeat two more times.

Again, be sure to get the tank out as much water as possible when finishing this step. Water there will make the fixer a tiny bit more diluted. Shouldn't be a problem, but just in case...

h) Fixer time ! Fixing is important and fixer is as well. Exhausted fixer will ruin a developing session. You can check the 'health' of your fixer by dropping a bit over a light exposed piece of film (a film leader ie). Be sure to check the specifications for dilution and # of rolls on the fixer box. Indeed these people took time to write them and most of the times they are right 🙂

So, pour in the fixer. In this step I discovered I got better results when applying to this process the same inversion policy as for Diafine. If I leave fixer in for maybe 5 minutes I do 2 or 3 couple slow inversions there.

i) Once time is gone, you CAN open the film tank without damage, slightly get out the reel and look at how film looks (don't take it out the reel though). It should be as transparent as possible (you can see a slight color depending on how strong the film base, pink usually), and what you DON'T want is a sort of 'milkyness'. If you see something like that, film is not completely fixed, put it in there, close and wait another minute or to and check again.

j) Ok, it's fixed 🙂 Pour it out, and then time to wash film again. You can repeat the same steps as when doing the stop bath. I usually use a 5 litres can of water per developing session (2 reels tank).

k) Finally, pour in the tank the final wash / fotoflo / wetting agent dilution thing. For sure there are many recipes here. I use Agfa Agepon, 1 bottle cap for 1 litre of washing solution.

l) And that's all, after a couple minutes, pour solution out as well as the film reels, and then do the squeegee thing or pass your fingers (wet with wash solution better) along film to take out the excess of water. Again, there are a lot of recipes here, whatever works best for you 🙂

m) Put the roll in the dryer (shower for me) with a weight clip on the bottom, and let it dry while you have a well deserved coffee / cigar / sherry or combination of them !

n) Pop open the window and let all your neighbours know that you developed your first roll of film 😉

And good luck this didn't come much longer, otherwise I'd have to learn the greek alphabet...

Oscar
 
Last edited:
SolaresLarrave said:
Again... where's Peter when one wants to thank him? I think he's the one who lives in Boston and shoots an M7.
hey! Give me a break - I'm only able to get on the forum in the evenings these days... Glad you're liking the picker Francisco! 🙂 This one is all plastic and about 2 bucks as I recall. Good value.

 
Back
Top Bottom