That 35mm/1.2 Beast

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SteveM(PA) said:
think unsexy thoughts think unsexy thoughts :eek:
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"Baseball...baseball...baseball..." (I know, old joke.)

Then again: I recall the last time I had anything close to this, namely a Nikkor 35mm f/1.4 AI when I had a pair of F3s (and an F2 Titan...damn. Shall we start another "what was I thinking when I sold THAT?" thread?). Went to town with that lens for a few years straight. I'd long been a photographic speed freak, but that lens helped kick things up a notch.

And, to think...this is faster, and with no mirror-slap to deal with. Time for a shower...


- Barrett
 
Ooo I have a question. What do people use as a lens cap for their 35 noktons when they take the hood off? I want to try shooting some rolls with the hood off but i want a lens cap since i always just throw my camera in my bookbag
 
chrish said:
Ooo I have a question. What do people use as a lens cap for their 35 noktons when they take the hood off? I want to try shooting some rolls with the hood off but i want a lens cap since i always just throw my camera in my bookbag
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Plain and simple: unless you leave the hood on, you don't want to leave the cap off. A rigidly-attached hood creates a reasonable barrier between the front element and most anything in most camera bags that might inflict damage there (this has worked with my Konica M-Hexanon 28mm f/2.8 and its brilliantly-designed hood, which in my case is essentially permanently affixed to it). Keep the hood on, and you're (mostly) safe if the camera has a "regular" perch in your bag; otherwise, put a cap on it, or you're taking a risk. The faster the lens, the bigger that front element, and the bigger the risk of damage. I don't need to tell you much more, do I?

(This goes for outside the camera bag as well; I've destroyed a few SLR lens hoods in violent lens-to-ground contact, but he lenses themselves survived.)


- Barrett
 
amateriat said:
Plain and simple: unless you leave the hood on, you don't want to leave the cap off. A rigidly-attached hood creates a reasonable barrier between the front element and most anything in most camera bags that might inflict damage there (this has worked with my Konica M-Hexanon 28mm f/2.8 and its brilliantly-designed hood, which in my case is essentially permanently affixed to it). Keep the hood on, and you're (mostly) safe if the camera has a "regular" perch in your bag; otherwise, put a cap on it, or you're taking a risk. The faster the lens, the bigger that front element, and the bigger the risk of damage. I don't need to tell you much more, do I?

(This goes for outside the camera bag as well; I've destroyed a few SLR lens hoods in violent lens-to-ground contact, but he lenses themselves survived.)


- Barrett
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i think you either misunderstood me or i didnt correctly say what i was trying to say, so here is a second crack at it.

the lens cap that came with the nokton only fits when you have the lens shade (is that what its called? hood? i dunno...) on the camera. take the lens shade off and the lens cap no longer fits. i know some people shoot without a lens shade on their noktons and i was wondering what they use as a lens cap or what size lens cap fits the lens when the lens shade isnt attached.
 
I believe the Nokton takes 52mm filters, so just get a generic 52mm snap on cap and it'll work just fine.
 
I use a B+W neutral filter. It's nothing but glass and has no effect on the image. I keep filters on all of my lenses and don't even bother with lens caps. I know some people argue against filters. Saying they get in the way of lens quality. But I'm pretty brutal with my equipment, and that thin piece of glass gives me incredible peace of mind.
 
How far does the front element project forward, do standard filters fit without having to worry about them hitting the front element. The reason I ask, the Canon 50/1.2 front element jumps forward and Tiffin filters will hit the front surface if screwed on fully. Wider ringed Hoya and B+W filters have been fine with it though.
 
chrish said:
i think you either misunderstood me or i didnt correctly say what i was trying to say, so here is a second crack at it.
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Gotcha. My goof.

the lens cap that came with the nokton only fits when you have the lens shade (is that what its called? hood? i dunno...) on the camera. take the lens shade off and the lens cap no longer fits. i know some people shoot without a lens shade on their noktons and i was wondering what they use as a lens cap or what size lens cap fits the lens when the lens shade isnt attached.
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Actually, I like the fact that the included cap works with the hood on-camera; that said, they should have included a cap for the lens alone as well. A third-party cap of appropriate size (Kyle mentioned 52mm) should suffice.


- Barrett
 
rover said:
How far does the front element project forward, do standard filters fit without having to worry about them hitting the front element.
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Hi Rover, the front element looks flat to me. Yes, in a moment of weakness I ordered one. I blame all of you! While big, it's not as extreme as Mr. Noctilux. The weight is not bad at all, and the balance is a lot better than I expected. If I can take any worthwhile photos this weekend I'll post them. Tall order, I know.
 
Yes, in a moment of weakness I ordered one.
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Me too. :D :D :D

Well, Flyfisher Tom is the happy owner of a 50 Summicron and I am....... :angel:

It is an impressive hunk of glass. I should get to do some shooting this weekend with it.
 
For those of you concerned about size;) , I thought I'd post 2 photos to show some size differences. A borrowed noctilux, the nokton, and the summicron asph.
 

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MikeL said:
For those of you concerned about size;) , I thought I'd post 2 photos to show some size differences. A borrowed noctilux, the nokton, and the summicron asph.
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That is positively ginormous!!! Yes, it is a f/1.2, but it still is gigantic; it really is amazing what those 1.2 stops can do to a lens...
 
Of course, with an SLR lens (like the afore mentioned AIS Nikkors) you don't have to worry about seeing around the lens through the viewfinder....
 
The R4M is starting to look very interesting. It would be possible to use the 28mm Utron and 35mm Nokton with zero viewfinder blockage, right?
 
marbrink said:
The R4M is starting to look very interesting. It would be possible to use the 28mm Utron and 35mm Nokton with zero viewfinder blockage, right?
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i tried both at Photovillage. No blockage as long as you don't put some crazy lens hood on them.
 
kshapero said:
i tried both at Photovillage. No blockage as long as you don't put some crazy lens hood on them.
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Really? How small are the 35mm framelines in the R4? Like 50mm in an R2 or M6.......?
 
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