The Industar 26 / 61 Gallery

[retinax]

Few of my pictures with obvious (big white spot in the middle of frame) but what it seams to be random problem. It's not flare related I guess since some pictures were taken from shade and still received white spot.

These pictures show beautiful rendering.
Are the spots definitely on the negative or could it be a scanning problem? Is there anything on the lens? Look through it against a light source, preferably a flash light held so that you just so don't shine it in your eye through the lens.
Maybe the tiniest of holes in the shutter curtain could cause something like this? If it only happens with this lens, it's ruled out of course. If not, shooting part of a roll where you always keep a lens cap on between shots could help diagnose this.

 

[Brambling]

The lens kit should have such a curtain.

such a bunny is due to a continuous flare around the perimeter of the lens or the flange of the camera.

 

[ratm22]

These pictures show beautiful rendering.
Are the spots definitely on the negative or could it be a scanning problem? Is there anything on the lens? Look through it against a light source, preferably a flash light held so that you just so don't shine it in your eye through the lens.
Maybe the tiniest of holes in the shutter curtain could cause something like this? If it only happens with this lens, it's ruled out of course. If not, shooting part of a roll where you always keep a lens cap on between shots could help diagnose this.

Spots are on negative so scanner is eliminated. There was nothing on the lens when pictures were taken. I checked lens again, nothing inside (lens was CLA one month ago by me along with body used with lens -Fed 2). Curtains were checked when I was servicing camera and found out that the curtains are not capping properly as I wind on to the next frame. So I used cap between every shot.

@Bramling
I have Industar 61 "Panda" version, and it didn't have (when I bought it) that metal curtain you were referring to. Maybe previous owner somehow remove it, but I doubt it since it was like new and never used neither cleaned.

Sorry for off topic, if u have some kind of solution please PM, so we don't spam great picture thread here 🙂

 

[Brambling]

Sorry for off topic, if u have some kind of solution please PM, so we don't spam great picture thread here 🙂

A small amount of text, I think, will not damage the branch.
I have seen such a shutter in all lenses, starting from Industar 26. Such glare, from experience, appears due to glare along the contour of the rear part of the lens or the flange of the camera. shine in the lens on the camera with a flashlight with a long shutter speed, as you have already been advised, you can see the cause of the flash. 🙄

 

[ratm22]

A small amount of text, I think, will not damage the branch.
I have seen such a shutter in all lenses, starting from Industar 26. Such glare, from experience, appears due to glare along the contour of the rear part of the lens or the flange of the camera. shine in the lens on the camera with a flashlight with a long shutter speed, as you have already been advised, you can see the cause of the flash. 🙄

Only thing I noticed when shinning through lens is that some kind of circle is forming (see picture below) in lens glass which may affect picture rendering and create white area in most of my pictures. 😕

 

[pvita]

...That said, what's up with these lenses (I mean, Russian RF lenses in general)? Something I've noticed with nearly all the color shots I see from them is that they render color very...flat? All the shots I see look like they're 50 years old.

I read and seen comparison of the color casts based on the coating used. Older lenses has a violet-blueish coating and show warm color cast that looks like 50y old photo. The color neutral coating comes later around 1962 onwards and has sort of yellow color. If you have “red P” lens then you would have color shifting coating as “red P” was before the color neutral coating.

 

[Brambling]

Only thing I noticed when shinning through lens is that some kind of circle is forming (see picture below) in lens glass which may affect picture rendering and create white area in most of my pictures.

I think You've found the reason. No wonder many manual lenses Nikon has such internal dampers. I'm sure You can do this with your own hands or scissors from a beer can, in any way darkening or painting its surface.
🙂

 

[Brambling]

Zorki 3M, I61ld, avifot400, D76, 07.09.17

 

[Andrea Taurisano]

I was going to start a new thread called "in praise of the Industar 61LD", or something like that, after testing the latest arrival on my M6.

Not sure if many care about this contribution, but someone one day may find these shots at f2.8 and the one into the sun useful. They give a clue about this soviet lens' performance when shot wide open and when aimed almost at the sun. I just find it an excellent portrait lens, and all round lens too actually, really not so terribly prone to flare either.

 

[lynnb]

I was going to start a new thread called "in praise of the Industar 61LD", or something like that, after testing the latest arrival on my M6.

Not sure if many care about this contribution, but someone one day may find these shots at f2.8 and the one into the sun useful. They give a clue about this soviet lens' performance when shot wide open and when aimed almost at the sun. I just find it an excellent portrait lens, and all round lens too actually, really not so terribly prone to flare either.

Lovely shots with this lens Andrea, thanks for sharing them.

Sorry for this necro-quote, but I've just got stuck at this picture.
Am I the only one considering the jump a bit too short?
:/

Yes it was a very near thing, the jumper only just cleared the rocks. Apologies for my necro-reply!

 

[tbhv55]

I just find it an excellent portrait lens, and all round lens too actually, really not so terribly prone to flare either.

Yes - a very nice lens, Andrea.

I've (somehow 😱) managed to acquire two or three copies of it. I'd certainly agree that it's an excellent all-round lens - and it can usually be purchased for a modest price.

 

[BobCoRn]

FED-2, Industar-26M.

Home style portrait

 

[BobCoRn]

Zorki-C, Industar-61 л/д. SVEMA FOTO 64, Vidermann.

 

[BobCoRn]

Industar-61 repair manual


Industar-26M repair manual

 

[Swift1]

From March 2018...

Untitled by Colton Allen, on Flickr
Canon 7 Rangefinder
Industar-61 L/D 53/2.8
Expired Walgreens (Fuji) 200
Nikon Coolscan V ED​

 

[Swift1]

Untitled by Colton Allen, on Flickr
FED 3 Rangefinder
Industar-61 L/D 53/2.8
Expired Kodak TMAX 100
Epson V500​

 

[former member]

Industar 26m, wide-open on the Leica M9. This lens is from 1957, has the Tabbed focus mount. I added the rear light baffle from an I-61L/D to it, reduced reflections.





I CLA'd this lens, and shimmed it for the Leica. Used 3M polishing sheets made for fiber optics on the back part of the focus mount to make it super-smooth.

Compared with the I-61L/D: lower contrast, not quite as sharp. The Tabbed focus mount has a better build quality than the I-61. The two focus mounts are not compatible.

 

[rfaspen]

This looks like separation to me. This could very well be causing the anomalies in your images. I have had the same behaviour with some of my lenses with this rather typical kind of separation.

Unfortunately, if it is separation I don't think it's practical to fix it. But, if you're into "fun" challenges and the cement was balsam, you could make the attempt. However, I'd be ready to pick up another lens.

I have a 70's era I-61LD and while it makes fine images (not great), the build quality is just too awful for me to enjoy using it. In fact, the build quality makes it difficult for me to use it at all. I'm glad others are having better luck.

Only thing I noticed when shinning through lens is that some kind of circle is forming (see picture below) in lens glass which may affect picture rendering and create white area in most of my pictures. 😕

 

[former member]

The build quality on the I-50 Collapsible lens is very good, all brass. Same quality image as the I-61, much better feel to using it. I found a set of filters for the I-50.

These images are with an I-61L/D that I shimmed for the Leica. These are all wide-open on the M9.











Optically- The I-61L/D is one of the best Tessar formula lenses you can find. The I-50 is as good, but slower.
Mechanically- the focus mount of the I-61L/D does not match the optics, but a good CLA greatly improved this one and another that I picked up in trades. I sold both for under $40 each. I put a lot of time into them. I get a level of satisfaction with making inexpensive lenses perform optimally on a Leica.

 

[Brambling]

ZORKIY 3M, film - Kodak 5222, D76​