kshapero
South Florida Man
The pureness of film and rangefinders is what brings me here, but it is getting rough to stay in the "game" when one does not develop one's own film. I used to get CD scans from Walgreen's but at 1.6 megs per shot they were not rich enough. I found a Pro Lab that will give me 6.6 meg scans but it costs $12.75 a roll. Ouch! What to do? I also don't have $5,000 for the M8 or even $1700 or more for the RD-1's. Of course, I guess I could put my nightly change in a Pretzal can and get an M11:bang: in 2011 (sic).
This is a real problem for me.
BTW, I like the scans not so much to doctor them up, but for archival purposes.
This is a real problem for me.
BTW, I like the scans not so much to doctor them up, but for archival purposes.
FrankS
Registered User
Scans for archival purposes? Hmmm. I'm thinking the negs themselves are much more archival.
Developing your own film is easy as pie, and a flatbed scanner capable of scanning negatives are not that expensive.
Sharing images over the internet is my reason for scanning.
Developing your own film is easy as pie, and a flatbed scanner capable of scanning negatives are not that expensive.
Sharing images over the internet is my reason for scanning.
kshapero
South Florida Man
Yeah, sharing the images is also another reason, but I am very much out of practice doing my own developing ( I think it was around 1992 last I did it.). I have never had good luck with my own scanning. Any ideas how to get back into developing for a guy who can't remember the details of the good ol' days. Any resources?FrankS said:
R
RML
Guest
Akiva, I was at a similar point a year and a half ago. I paid 3 euro per roll of 36 colour neg film, and 3 euro per roll just to have it developed. Add the time wasted scanning some 365 rolls per year (on average 1 a day) and you can see that I was bleeding my wallet and myself empty.
I did the calculations and guess what... I was spending nearly 2200 euro per year on film and dev'ing. An R-D1 at that time went for about 3000 euro here in Holland but I looked further and found Dr Yao from HK selling me an R-D1 for 2500 euro (including the 400 euro customs duties)! The R-D1 payed itself back in less than 14 months. And, as Dr Yao overhauled the camera to iron out all known QC issues before shipping it off to me, I never had any trouble with the camera. And I still don't have any. Plus, I have time aplenty for my family, my shooting, etc.
Going R-D1 was (and is) a blessing.
I did the calculations and guess what... I was spending nearly 2200 euro per year on film and dev'ing. An R-D1 at that time went for about 3000 euro here in Holland but I looked further and found Dr Yao from HK selling me an R-D1 for 2500 euro (including the 400 euro customs duties)! The R-D1 payed itself back in less than 14 months. And, as Dr Yao overhauled the camera to iron out all known QC issues before shipping it off to me, I never had any trouble with the camera. And I still don't have any. Plus, I have time aplenty for my family, my shooting, etc.
Going R-D1 was (and is) a blessing.
kshapero
South Florida Man
RML said:
HK? Please tell me the contact.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
continue to get your negs lab processed - and scan the ones you like with a $500 film scanner. I personally wouldn't bother with scanning the whole roll (unless your percentage of winners is much much higher than mine). The negs are already more archival than current digital storage.
branki
Established
I second rogue's suggestion.
I mostly shoot B&W and develop all of it myself.
Then I patiently scan the "winners" or the "less loosers" with an old school HP scan.
It works just fine.
I like film because it makes you slow down and think more.
I mostly shoot B&W and develop all of it myself.
Then I patiently scan the "winners" or the "less loosers" with an old school HP scan.
It works just fine.
I like film because it makes you slow down and think more.
RdEoSg
Well-known
I've recently started shooting film again after a 5 year absence and though I was annoyed for a while at not having the images right away, I have found that I got used to it and just borrow the nikon film scanner from work to scan the shots I want to post online. I admit that I am a bit far behind already.. I've had the camera for about 3 months and am already two months behind on scanning and posting! But still. I wasn't all that fast at it with the digital either so who cares! If I was you I would definatly invest in a decent film scanner for $500- 1000 or so and just practice scanning. Heck. You can probably pick up a used or lower resolution one for even cheaper if all you want to do is show some online and arcive a few.
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
Akiva you can jump right in with developing your own film. It's dead easy!
Well ok, I've never developed or printed a single C-41 or E-6 neg/image... but black and white is hella good fun!!
I think in total I've spent about £100. That includes the tank, chemicals, changing bag, two old enlargers (one head for 35mm, one for medium format), masking frame (!) and every other tidbit like the measuring cylinders.
The film developing cost about £30. That's less than the cost of 8 films to be processed for me, and without the 2 week wait for black and white!!
I'd say look through the darkroom/photoshop/film forum and look at the recent posts, a lot of people are getting back into it, and the scanner shouldn't cost too much. If you want the full extent of tweaking ability then either look into Photoshop Elements, or GimpShop (GNU Image Manipulation Program) which is a free version of Photoshop.
Well ok, I've never developed or printed a single C-41 or E-6 neg/image... but black and white is hella good fun!!
I think in total I've spent about £100. That includes the tank, chemicals, changing bag, two old enlargers (one head for 35mm, one for medium format), masking frame (!) and every other tidbit like the measuring cylinders.
The film developing cost about £30. That's less than the cost of 8 films to be processed for me, and without the 2 week wait for black and white!!
I'd say look through the darkroom/photoshop/film forum and look at the recent posts, a lot of people are getting back into it, and the scanner shouldn't cost too much. If you want the full extent of tweaking ability then either look into Photoshop Elements, or GimpShop (GNU Image Manipulation Program) which is a free version of Photoshop.
ravid905
Established
Its pretty easy doing your own developing, I guess you just need to get a technique that works for you. I do all of mine with two tanks, 6 empty ice tea bottles, and a red bucket. As far as scans go, why not look into a used film scanner? I bought a Dimage Scan Elite II for all of 200 bucks, maximum dpi is 2820, and maximum resolution is 4000ish X 3000ish. Can't remember exact numbers off the top of my head. I'm sure that I have shot and developed enough of my own, as well as gotten developed for me to buy my own M8, but if I had saved all my money from then until now, I would never have taken a single picture to date. Nor would I own a camera or any lenses.
Nando
Well-known
To save money I get my C41 processed without getting prints. I then take the negatives and scan them into my computer. When I want a print, I send the scan to MPIX.com. They do a reasonably good job and they don't mind serving Canadian customers like me.
Luckily, being a teacher, the government gave me $500 to buy computer equipment or to get computer training. I didn't need anything but I had to spend the money, otherwise I would lose it so I bought a Nikon Coolscan V ED scanner. I love it. If I didn't have this funding, I would probably opt for an Epson 4490 scanner instead. Scanning is a time consuming process but I enjoy it.
I want to learn to develop my own B&W. Maybe during the summer, I'll have some time to do this. I love B&W films but processing costs $25 per roll where I live - add tax and it almost comes out to $30. I pay just over $2 per roll for C41. Hence, I've been sticking with C41 B&W or converting C41 colour film to B&W in Photoshop.
Luckily, being a teacher, the government gave me $500 to buy computer equipment or to get computer training. I didn't need anything but I had to spend the money, otherwise I would lose it so I bought a Nikon Coolscan V ED scanner. I love it. If I didn't have this funding, I would probably opt for an Epson 4490 scanner instead. Scanning is a time consuming process but I enjoy it.
I want to learn to develop my own B&W. Maybe during the summer, I'll have some time to do this. I love B&W films but processing costs $25 per roll where I live - add tax and it almost comes out to $30. I pay just over $2 per roll for C41. Hence, I've been sticking with C41 B&W or converting C41 colour film to B&W in Photoshop.
kshapero
South Florida Man
Thanks for all the suggestions. They are varied so I'll chew on them and see what I decide, which will probably be to stay the course.
Kat
Well-known
Like the others here, I rarely get prints. My main cost in this hobby is just film and developing, and I usually buy el cheapo film, the type you can get around $1 per roll. Fuji Superia isn't that expensive either. The nicer film I save for special occasions. You can even do bulk-loading, though I don't do this as I use mainly color film.
D.O. (develop only) costs about $1 in my area, so that's a total of $2/roll. I bought a $300 flatbed scanner, and I figured after i scan 100 rolls on it, it will have already paid for itself, since my local Fuji lab scans for $1.50. After those 100 rolls, I'd consider myself scanning for free!
But I'm not a heavy shooter, I use up probably a roll a month or so. If you shoot a lot more than that, and want better quality scans, then might be worthwhile to invest in a better scanner.
D.O. (develop only) costs about $1 in my area, so that's a total of $2/roll. I bought a $300 flatbed scanner, and I figured after i scan 100 rolls on it, it will have already paid for itself, since my local Fuji lab scans for $1.50. After those 100 rolls, I'd consider myself scanning for free!
But I'm not a heavy shooter, I use up probably a roll a month or so. If you shoot a lot more than that, and want better quality scans, then might be worthwhile to invest in a better scanner.
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w3rk5
Well-known
Here are a couple of links that might help you out.kshapero said:
http://www.photo-seminars.com/Seminars/B&W Film/devb&w.htm
http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfilmdev.html
http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Thinktank/5693/photogra.html
My current developing kit consists of;
1 Single 35mm stainless steel developing tank
2 35mm stainless steel reels
1 Graduated cylinder 20 oz ( 600 cc )
1 Straight glass thermometer
10 300ml glass juice bottles for the mixed chemicals and water baths
3 Syringes to measure the chemicals
For film clips I use binder clips
Kodak HC-110 (cause I can get it easily)
ILFORD RAPID FIXER
KODAK PHOTO-FLO
Good luck and have fun with it if you decide to develop again.
mr roberts
Just R
I do develop only at the local labs as well. B&W is ~$5/roll color, C41 is ~$2.80, E6 is ~$8.00. My approach lately has been to put them into clear scannable index sheets after I cut them, scan the sheet at good rez on an Epson flatbed, name the file accordingly i.e. BWN001_112006 and put the sheet in the appropriate binder with a tag bearing the same number as the scanned index file. (BWN - B&W Negative, 001 - roll number, 112006 - date processed.
I can print the "contact sheet" out in several sizes/copies if we're going through pics together or in a group or review it on the screen if I'm working alone. It's easy to select frames, find them in the binder and scan it on the Sprintscan 4000 for a higher rez for printing. If I do that the High Rez scan is saved as i.e. BWN001_112006_F25 for Frame #25. I make a note in the index scan files properties of which frames have been scanned to print.
It took me a while to settle on this process, but it works for me and allows me to maintain these records at the file system level and not in an "asset management" program.
I can print the "contact sheet" out in several sizes/copies if we're going through pics together or in a group or review it on the screen if I'm working alone. It's easy to select frames, find them in the binder and scan it on the Sprintscan 4000 for a higher rez for printing. If I do that the High Rez scan is saved as i.e. BWN001_112006_F25 for Frame #25. I make a note in the index scan files properties of which frames have been scanned to print.
It took me a while to settle on this process, but it works for me and allows me to maintain these records at the file system level and not in an "asset management" program.
rogue_designer
Reciprocity Failure
kshapero said:
Staying the course - as a plan of action, doesn't always work out so well.
Just sayin.
kshapero
South Florida Man
I am thinking of getting the negs done at walgreens for a couple of bucks (C-41) and investing in a better scanner ( I am presently using a HP 3210 All-in-One).
I tried the Minolta Dual Scan IV. It was used as in too used, so I sold it.
Any suggestions for a good used scanner for 35mm negs?
I tried the Minolta Dual Scan IV. It was used as in too used, so I sold it.
Any suggestions for a good used scanner for 35mm negs?
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
I am amazed at how much good scanners still cost, given the shift to digital capture in the general consumer market. A "good" scanner ... depends on one's definition of good, I suppose. I want a Nikon V or a Canon 4000. But they're still too expensive, IMO, even used. I've also been interested in the Microteks, but the opinion on them is varied and they are also not cheap.
kshapero
South Florida Man
What about the Poloraid Sprintscan 4000? mr Roberts pipe in, please.
jky
Well-known
kshapero,
I just processed my first couple of rolls this past weekend after more than 10years. It's not that difficult & everything you need can be had for a minimal expense. There's a processing pdf file on the Ilford site that I used.... and that was very simple.
Cheers, j
I just processed my first couple of rolls this past weekend after more than 10years. It's not that difficult & everything you need can be had for a minimal expense. There's a processing pdf file on the Ilford site that I used.... and that was very simple.
Cheers, j