The right Film SLR next to Leica M6ttl. R6 or FM2/FM3a

I recently got a non-metered F and find I use it almost as much as my M6. They also have metered heads if you're into that. I also have an F2, but find that I enjoy using the F more.
 
I wouldn't worry about the opposite direction aperture on the Nikkors, the cameras are totally different that you're not going to forget which one you're using. Plus you can see the aperture in the VF. If you want everything to turn the same, how about an OM setup?

If I wanted an SLR kit to go with my M, I'd get an FM2 plus a few Nikkor AI-S lenses. You could even get a backup and still be well under the cost of the Leica system.
 
The Leica R6(.2) is way better than the R3 or R4. It is totally mechanical and as close to an SLR M as it is possible to get. I have never noticed a shutter lag any more pronounced than any other SLR, including my Nikons. If it was good enough for Sebastião Salgado, it is good enough for me...

Rolfe
 
I'm curious as to what you're shooting that requires a camera with virtually no shutter lag?

If you're focusing your attention on the delay in your camera you're not concentrating on your subject enough. I've shot with a lot of different cameras in my career and never shot one that was so noticeably slow that it distracted from my shooting or drew my attention from the photo making process. But then again I'm a guy that shot college football from the sidelines in the 60's with an M body, visoflex 2 and long preset lenses.
 
I think the aspect to remember with Leica R bodies is their repairability. (I have had an SL2, an R3, R4, R4sp and an R7) The SL series is old and there are few spare parts, also prisms have a tendency to de-silver (it was also a bit of a boat anchor). The R series shutters I believe are not replaceable unless you canibalise another body. I've also had (since 1967) and still have, a slew of nikon manual focus bodies - NEVER had a problem - they are repairable. If you can afford it the FM3A makes the most sense IMO, especially as it's quite compact so close to the Leica M.
Just my 10 cents worth
 
I have a couple Rolleiflex SLRs that use nice Rollei/Zeiss lenses but I would NOT recommend that system for various reasons.

I currently have Canon, Nikon, OM, and other SLR systems (yes I have a problem). I find the Olympus OM system fairly easy to use along with M's in fast-paced environments except they are difficult for me to hold -- too small I think. If there was a grip available for OM, I would find them ideal. Good lenses, but lacking in the long end (>= 300mm).

So, I end up using Nikon because I have a fair bit of them. If Nikon lenses focused the same direction as Leica they would make an ideal companion SLR system. OP is trying to avoid battery-dependent AF Nikons, so that's out. Still, Nikons are a great option overall for reasons stated in previous posts.

I tried to like Canon FD, but I just don't. I only use it for my 50/1.2 FD lens. I may try to trade that lens for an LTM version, then I can move all my FD gear out and make space in the closet. But its an option with plenty of decent lenses, many cheap now with FD being an orphaned mount. The F1 is said to be excellent, its just not for me.

I almost bought an SL2 several times. What holds me back is the known difficulty of repair (and CLA). Apparently they're almost too well built so home repair is not easy. Leica R lenses are great, but comparable to the better Nikon or even OM lenses, and I don't need another camera system.

A long post to suggest my personal favorites of either OM or Nikon, but whatever has your lens needs and ergonomics covered is the right choice.
 
Have a Leica R6.2 with 28, 50, and 135 lenses and it is the same size as my M2 and a lot smaller/lighter then my M5. In fact, you can think of it as an M6 with both spot and averaging metering.

Now, I am a Nikon user from way back and think the original F was the best camera they ever made (especially if it needed to stop a bullet or be used as a weapon (see Vietnam)) But the R6.2 has a great viewfinder, the spot/average metering is great and really I don't see a down side to it if you are looking for a all mechanical SLR with the Leica name on it. I just don't use it much as I prefer my M2 or M5.

Make you a deal on a R6.2 and three R lenses.
 
x-ray said:
I'm curious as to what you're shooting that requires a camera with virtually no shutter lag?

If you're focusing your attention on the delay in your camera you're not concentrating on your subject enough. I've shot with a lot of different cameras in my career and never shot one that was so noticeably slow that it distracted from my shooting or drew my attention from the photo making process. But then again I'm a guy that shot college football from the sidelines in the 60's with an M body, visoflex 2 and long preset lenses.
Click to expand...


THANK YOU EVERYBODY FOR YOUR INSIGHTS AND OPINIONS. It is of great help to me.


I always shoot people and try to shoot mostly on my feeling and spontaneous. Kind of street shoot style and enjoy the Leica M system very much. Lately i had some mishaps with composition of horizontal shots/portraits. Maybe cause of the combined shooting (M9/M8.2) so especially on Fim (where you can't chimp) I would like to see the image more reliable.

But i know i will always want to act on impuls and want to be able to get that moment. AND it is quit possible that shutter lag will not be a big problem but it is just something that is in my head. I want to 'feel' the shot/trigger and time when it goes of. I sold my Sony A7 cause i didn't feel the shutter and was happy with the responsiveness of the Nikon D700 after that.

Some times i focus and frame and wait for that moment on portraits for instance. I want the shutter to click as soon as i push the button. Or at least not have the feeling that there is lag.

Now i spoke with a Dutch repair guy and he said that the R6 has a kind of tube/valve that dampens the mirror. When that is oily it prevents air to come out of the valve/tube and it slows the momentum. That sounds logical. So than the question is if the R6 is fast enough (for my feeling) when i have one in serviced condition. And how is even the best serviced R6 in comparison to FM3a/FM2.

From all the reactions it seems that the Nikons are quicker by design. To bad i still did not manage to handle a r6 in the flesh to see how it feels. If the lag is that bad as the R4 i tried or maybe it is ok. Or that the feel of that camera is so nice that think i want to try it anyway.


For now i have black r6 that i can order for 380 euro. A 60mm lens (My first R lens) will cost app 350 euro. Or i can get a really nice black FM3a for 450 euro. That FM3a can work with the 17mm ais, 28mm 2.8 ais, 35mm f2 add, 50mm 1.4 add, 50mm 1.8E, 100mm 2.8E, 135mm f3.5 ais i already have (for my 2 D700's + F100).

Going for the R would mean buying two R lenses: 60mm macro as alround lens and wide portrait lens and the 28mm f2.8 for wider shots. My Mlenses are 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 85mm, 135mm (shoot mostly 28/35mm on M).

Nikon would be smart since i have most glass already. But hen if the leica R feels better and i can find some nice glass. I could just start with the 60mm next to my wider M lesnes.

To make it less easy..i found a Black OM1 with 50mm1.4 for 50 euro. I have a 28mm f3.5 somewhere so i would almost be ready when this set is ok and doesn't need extensive CLA done to make work. Didn't handle it yet.

The FM3a and R6 are the youngest kids on the block. The OM or Pentax systems or much older and more probable to need servicing. The leica R6 will keep it's value and probably the Nikon too. Judging from the expereience with the FM bodies i think the the Leice R6 might feel sturdier and more like the M and quit possibly have a less loud shutter. Also nice points..

So i guess the smart thing is to go for FM3a/Fm2. since they are definitely quick and can be serviced everywhere and probably have a better chance of getting parts. And i have glass.
My other persona likes to give that R6 a try. The M6 i have just feels so good. Ik that R6 has some of that feeling.. and if it was good enough for Salgado etc.. Would more probably need a CLA. Any one know the cost of a CLA for Leica R6.
 
You could buy the R6/60 macro and try them out, and if they didn't work out, sell them at minimal loss. People can tell you their experiences, but it is not the same as actually handling the camera yourself. It beats overthinking it.
 
My two cents: The Nikon F3hp. There are many fine lenses for this camera, including Zeiss. It is easy and terribly expensive to go to a 24mm or lenses longer than 135mm or zoom lenses. The 105mm f2.5 is outstanding. It is manual focus like the Leica. A motor drive can be attached at almost nominal cost. The F3hp is plentiful on the market and ergonomically easy to handle.
 
i sent my Fm3a early this year to nikon for a simple CLA and they fixed it for free for some reason and replaced a part for free. service doesn't get much better than that. I never asked why, but maybe i should have.

what was funny was when i was checking prices for the service, Nikon service center was the cheapest in the country of the 7 places with good reputations that I checked.
 
Roel said:
.......
To make it less easy..i found a Black OM1 with 50mm1.4 for 50 euro. I have a 28mm f3.5 somewhere so i would almost be ready when this set is ok and doesn't need extensive CLA done to make work. Didn't handle it yet.
...
Click to expand...

Wouldn't be my first choice, but an EXCELLENT one.

But then lugging around a SL2/180 combo for a full day might have me re-thinking my choice.

B2 (;->
 
if you want the focus and aperture rings to turn the same direction as a leica m, the only options are leica r, minolta, and topcon.
 
aizan said:
if you want the focus and aperture rings to turn the same direction as a leica m, the only options are leica r, minolta, and topcon.
Click to expand...

Thnx. So did Minolta ever make a Mechanical body based on their R4/5/6 design? I hear from technician sources that the R4/5 (even though they have much in common) have more problems than the Minolta bodies.
 
Hang on, you already own a whole bunch on Nikkor AI-S glass? Just get an FM2 and see how it goes. You can get an R6/60mm combo to test the waters and see if the grass is greener if you want I suppose, but unless there's something you really don't like then it's an obvious choice.
 
michaelwj said:
Hang on, you already own a whole bunch on Nikkor AI-S glass? Just get an FM2 and see how it goes. You can get an R6/60mm combo to test the waters and see if the grass is greener if you want I suppose, but unless there's something you really don't like then it's an obvious choice.
Click to expand...

Guilty! Would be a logic choice but there is something mystical in M series feel that i hope also translates to SLR R6. And then there is the loud click that the FM2/Fm3a series have that i find a problem. One i would have to live with if i pursue the mechanical Nikon road. The logical brain half says Nikon..
 
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