Things to check before buying a Mat 124-G

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Michiel

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Tuesday I'm going to take a look at a Yashica Mat 124-G that someone in the next town put up for sale. The seller and me have already agreed on a price we both are comfortable with, so now it's all up to my inspection of the camera. So here's my question:

Please help me with what I should look for, so that I won't end up with something broken. I'll be at the seller's house, so there's no anonimity or anything. I only do business this way (very nervous with my money), but still want to do a thorough check of the camera.

Here's what I've figured:
- test the meter
- check if the shutter speed and aperture dials work like they should. Check the window with the values on top.
- check if the aperture blades open and close evenly and smoothly
- Open the shutter on "B", then look through the lens at a light source to find imperfections
- test filmwind crank, shutter cocking mechanism and shutter fire at different speeds.

I have read and learned the Mat 124-G manual, so I know what's where and how to use it.

So please help me with:
- What's missing from the above list?
- What are common defects that you know of, and how should I detect them?
- What if I find a small cratch or something on the lens. Is it worthless now?

I'm very much looking forward to starting MF photography. I feel it will suit me very well, as calm and quiet landscapes are what I enjoy shooting most. I love framing and fidgeting with my tripod, so TLR will hopefully be my final stop. (from p&s to rf, to slr, to tlr 🙂 which I will all continue to use by the way)

Thank you for reading and for anything you might post!

[edit]
Success! see my post below
[/edit]
 
Last edited:
Clear ground glass
Load a roll of film, Mats' weak link is the film advance. Does it evenly space the shots. Mine has been fixed, but it still doesn't. The frames don't overlap, anymore, but the spacing isn't even.
 
When focussing the camera the lens carraige should move back and forth smoothly. There should not be any wobble or undulation in the movement. to observe if there is you may have to observe it from the side as well as the top when focusing.

Focus the camera out close to bring the lens carraige all the way out. Now gentle hold the carraige ad see if it is lose or wobbly - it should have no lose feel or perhaps just the slightest of movement - nothing more.

Look into the camera through the front of the viewing lens. This will enable you to see the surface of the mirror. The mirrors in most TLRs are surface silvered and this can start to break down from the edges in.

The back should close evenly and firm all the way around the edges.

By lifting the viewing hood the meter is turned on and it is switched off by closing the hood. Check that it is working.

When checking the self timer do so on the slower speeds.

I have been using Yashica TLRs for over 30 years and currently have a 124G.

Please let me know how you get on.

Regards
Peter
 
Only use the self timer when the flash sync is set to X not M. If set to M the self timer can cause shutter failure. Peter, please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Thank you for your replies. I have read many ealier posts and threads on this particular camera here on RFF, so I feel I will be able to correctly judge it when I get there tomorrow.

Rover, I read that you had the shutter fail after trying the selftimer. Was the flash sync setting the cause of this?

I hope it will be in good working condition. I cannot afford a CLA, so if it needs repairs I won't buy it.

I will remain to keep an eye on this thread. Tomorrow I will let you know my results. If I decide to buy, I'll post some pics!

Thanks again 🙂
 
Unfortunately you will not be able to evaluate the frame spacing or overlap issue until you shoot a roll of film and get it developed. And that will indeed require a repair. So I suggest that no decision be made by you (and no money change hands) until the film is developed.
 
Thanks for the advice. I have asked the seller if he has developed negs for me to check, and he said he would have them ready.

Supposing he isn't showing me negs of a different 6x6 camera (which I don't expect he will), frame spacing issues be immediately evident.
 
Rover, I read that you had the shutter fail after trying the selftimer. Was the flash sync setting the cause of this?
Click to expand...

Yes, the shutter went down after a family self portrait. I could have sworn I checked the sync, but unfortunately I had not.
 
Remember,
the loud ratcheting sound you hear when advancing the film crank is normal, sounds alot like a hand crank coffee grinder 😉.

good luck!
Todd
 
Hi Michiel,

I've used one but sold it a few weeks ago.
-Check the lens for scrathces, fungus and haze
-Check the top speed. See if it opens at 500th.
Check the littel pies of foam in the vf. It might need replacement. But you can do that your self quit easy.

The meter is nice to have but mine wasn't good enough for slides.
Although it is a nice camera and can use 220 film will be outperofrmed by any recent Rolleicord or Rolleiflex. A Rolleicord Vb is much sturdier, has a birghter and interchangeable viewing screen and the Xenar is better than the Yashinon.

Considering you are also named Michiel and live in Holland we should meet. Are you going to Paris the 20-22 of April. If so, I can give you a ride.

Cheers,

Michiel Fokkema
 
Hi Michiel

Thanks for the tips. I can replace the lightseals myself, yes, and I expect them to be gunked up 🙂

I use a handheld meter for most of my photography, so won't be using the one in the camera much. I have read in more places that it is indeed very unreliable.

April will be probably too busy for me to go to Paris, but thanks for offering! I would have enjoyed going there, but there's now way I'm going to have enough time.. Were you there at the last RFF meeting in Amsterdam? I was in China at the time, but would have liked to. It would be great to meet you and the other Dutch RFFers!

Todd.Hanz, thanks for the tip on the shutter advance. I had already heared the sound here, but if I hadn't and you wouldn't have let me know, it would have scared me so much, I'd have ran home 🙂
 
Without trying to confuse Michiel, or start a debate, I must dissagree with the comment that the metering in the 124G is not that good.

I took a 124G around Bali for a month back in '84 and shot mostly colour neg. Since then I have owned several 124Gs and have shot colour tranny and b/w neg with excellent results when it comes to exposure.

I find the metering to be very accurate and reliable. the only influence on the metering being the voltage change in the battery - from 1.35v then to 1.5v now.

I have an article describing an adaptor that uses a PX13 case with a 76 or 44 cell inside via a mini doide that takes the 1.5v down to 1.3v. Otherwise adjust the ASA (ISO) of the meter to compensate for the voltage affected readings.

Regards Peter
 
Hi everyone, thanks again for all the tips.

I just returned from the sellers house, and it was a success!

He was an older man, just retired. He decided to spend his new found free time learning about computers, and taking his photography digital. So here we have an old man explaining the latest digital gadgets from Nikon to a 23 year old who has never heard of any of the stuff 🙂

We talked for about an hour over coffee, while I did my checklist. And there is simply nothing (and I mean absolutely nothing) wrong with it!

The man is the first owner, and bought it years ago new for portraitry, but then bought a Rollei and didn't use it much anymore. The case is as new, the camera itself appears like new, and it comes with a hood and yellow filter. Only thing it didn't have is a strap, he didn't get one when he bought it.

All in all a great experience and a good way to spend my day. I'm so excited with my new camera!

So now I'm off for some film. I've already found a pro-lab that I can mail my film to, and get the negs and a contactsheet send back from for a good price. I figure the next step will be getting my own darkroom 🙂

Anyway, thanks again for all the help. It's great so many took the time to help me along!

Peter, can you tell me where to find the article on the adaptor? Maybe I'll try to get my hands one. Can you explain how to accurately adjust the ASA to compensate for the voltage difference?

I'll post some pics as soon as I find my digicam 🙂
 
Very nice indeed, enjoy.

Now I am thinking, I can swear there is a regular 1.5v battery in mine, if not it must be a Wein Cell.

Google "Yashica Guy"

He may have the adaptor you are looking for.
 
ARCHIVIST said:
Without trying to confuse Michiel, or start a debate, I must dissagree with the comment that the metering in the 124G is not that good.

I took a 124G around Bali for a month back in '84 and shot mostly colour neg. Since then I have owned several 124Gs and have shot colour tranny and b/w neg with excellent results when it comes to exposure.


Regards Peter
Click to expand...

I said MINE wasn't accurate enough for slides. It could easily be off one stop. A disaster for slides, for negative film not a big issue.

Cheers,

Michiel Fokkema
 
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