Landberg
Well-known
Hi! Im thinking about buying a Leica M2. I would really like to own one of the old classic Leicas and i was thinking about a M2. The M3 is not a option because of the lack of 35mm frame lines. I know it has no light meter but that doesn't matter.
What are there Pros/Cons of buying a old Leica? What should i look fore?
Thanks!
What are there Pros/Cons of buying a old Leica? What should i look fore?
Thanks!
lxmike
M2 fan.
As someone who has always wanted a leica M and after 35 years, recently obtained an M2, I would say go for it, you will not regret it, the build quality and smoothness alone justify getting one, the uncluttered viewfinder is a big bonus. I do not see any real cons. Good luck with your decision
ferider
Veteran
Many M2 sold on the used market have the beginning of finder separation.
Other than that, budget time and money for a CLA, and you should be fine.
Other than that, budget time and money for a CLA, and you should be fine.
Landberg
Well-known
I have a Leica CL and used to have a Leica M6 but so the leica experience is not new but i newer bought a camera that is so old.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
Bring a flash light if you get the opportunity to inspect the camera before buying. Open the bottom/back and shine the light into the film chamber from the opposite side to show any holes in the shutter. Make sure to wind the camera and check both curtains. (Do that in a dark room so it's easier to see pinholes.)
Look at both shutter curtains for visible cracks in the rubber coating. If you see cracks, the curtain needs to be replaced.
Check the pressure plate for any burrs.
Look through the viewfinder and check to see if it's nice and clear. It should be bright and clean with good contrast between the rangefinder spot and the rest of the VF. Shine a flashlight into the front and back of the viewfinder to check for any element separation.
Find a lens that is known to be properly adjusted for infinity focus and check the infinity of the rangefinder. It should be spot on. Also check close focus against the scale. You should be able to tell what is in focus at 1 meter. If it's off slightly, you may need an adjustment but usually this isn't the case if the camera focuses to infinity.
Run through all the shutter speeds, listening closely to the speeds below 1/30 of a second. They should sound even in tone and not rise or drop in pitch. You should be able to hear a pendulum swing after 1/15 second then the geartrain on slower speeds.
Make sure B works properly. It shouldn't stick open, nor should it cap after you depress the shutter button. When it's out of adjustment it can stick open or act like 1/30 second or not open at all.
The speeds above 1/30 usually are close and you won't be able to hear too much of a difference. You'll be able to ascertain the fast speed condition after exposing film at 1/500 and 1/1000 to see if the shutter is capping or exposure is off at all.
When you wind the camera you should feel nothing but pure silky smooth goodness. There might be the very slightest of geartrain noise and the shuddering of curtains as they are tensioned but otherwise the M2 is just about perfection.
Check to make sure the strap lug holes aren't worn thin and the lugs themselves are in the body tight just by gently trying to jiggle them.
Bring a test roll to run through to make sure the clutch prong in the rewind is properly engaging so you can rewind your film.
Good luck and happy hunting.
Phil Forrest
Look at both shutter curtains for visible cracks in the rubber coating. If you see cracks, the curtain needs to be replaced.
Check the pressure plate for any burrs.
Look through the viewfinder and check to see if it's nice and clear. It should be bright and clean with good contrast between the rangefinder spot and the rest of the VF. Shine a flashlight into the front and back of the viewfinder to check for any element separation.
Find a lens that is known to be properly adjusted for infinity focus and check the infinity of the rangefinder. It should be spot on. Also check close focus against the scale. You should be able to tell what is in focus at 1 meter. If it's off slightly, you may need an adjustment but usually this isn't the case if the camera focuses to infinity.
Run through all the shutter speeds, listening closely to the speeds below 1/30 of a second. They should sound even in tone and not rise or drop in pitch. You should be able to hear a pendulum swing after 1/15 second then the geartrain on slower speeds.
Make sure B works properly. It shouldn't stick open, nor should it cap after you depress the shutter button. When it's out of adjustment it can stick open or act like 1/30 second or not open at all.
The speeds above 1/30 usually are close and you won't be able to hear too much of a difference. You'll be able to ascertain the fast speed condition after exposing film at 1/500 and 1/1000 to see if the shutter is capping or exposure is off at all.
When you wind the camera you should feel nothing but pure silky smooth goodness. There might be the very slightest of geartrain noise and the shuddering of curtains as they are tensioned but otherwise the M2 is just about perfection.
Check to make sure the strap lug holes aren't worn thin and the lugs themselves are in the body tight just by gently trying to jiggle them.
Bring a test roll to run through to make sure the clutch prong in the rewind is properly engaging so you can rewind your film.
Good luck and happy hunting.
Phil Forrest
JMQ
Well-known
Rather than reinventing the wheel, see this link to Gandy's guide to buying older Leica cameras.
http://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm
http://www.cameraquest.com/leicamchecklist.htm
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Pros: quiet, smooth operation, 35mm "native" VF, solid brass top plate, all the Leica goodness of mid-century industrial design and fabrication.
Cons: no meter, few winder options (Tom A makes a nice rapidwinder, but that's it), 60 year-old mechanical device, 28 and wider need an external finder, flash is a pain.
There are a lot cheaper ways to get a durable 35mm platform these days. You could probably get a used Nikon FM2 or FE2 with a 50/1.8 for a good chunk of change less AND address all the "cons" listed above. FWIW, I love the M2; I have M2, M3, M5, and M6 and the M2 holds its own in that company.
Ben
Cons: no meter, few winder options (Tom A makes a nice rapidwinder, but that's it), 60 year-old mechanical device, 28 and wider need an external finder, flash is a pain.
There are a lot cheaper ways to get a durable 35mm platform these days. You could probably get a used Nikon FM2 or FE2 with a 50/1.8 for a good chunk of change less AND address all the "cons" listed above. FWIW, I love the M2; I have M2, M3, M5, and M6 and the M2 holds its own in that company.
Ben
BW400CN
Bessamatic forever!
I may provocat some people here - but why spend so much money just for a name?
You wanna use leica lenses? - buy a Bessa!
You have a RF with interchangeable lenses - have a look @ a Kodak Retina IIIs!
There is no sense in hunting for an old Leica - only if you are somebody who pays for a name!
You wanna use leica lenses? - buy a Bessa!
You have a RF with interchangeable lenses - have a look @ a Kodak Retina IIIs!
There is no sense in hunting for an old Leica - only if you are somebody who pays for a name!
Landberg
Well-known
I have a summicron 35/2 and a planar 50/2 so its gonna be a leica. I know about the frame line options and the no meter. Simply want to know about the risks of a real old camera
ferider
Veteran
The risk is pretty low if
1) you don't negotiate down to the last dollar
2) buy from a seller you can return to
3) don't mind paying for a CLA.
Youxin Ye once told me, "the nicer a camera looks from the outside, the better it most likely looks on the inside", and I trust him.
Roland.
1) you don't negotiate down to the last dollar
2) buy from a seller you can return to
3) don't mind paying for a CLA.
Youxin Ye once told me, "the nicer a camera looks from the outside, the better it most likely looks on the inside", and I trust him.
Roland.
Landberg
Well-known
Bessa is really good cameras! But the M2 is cheaper. And i would like one of these classic cameras. I have a wide spend of rangefinders, from a minolta CLE to a Kamerawerk Futura so the brand isn´t all. But there is something with the m2/m3 models.
Landberg
Well-known
I found this one from a swedish used camera store with 3 months warranty. And it is newly served.
Attachments
thegman
Veteran
The only real cons with Leica for me, is the cost of the lenses, compared to vintage SLRs. Other than that, if it's got the frame lines you want, you don't mind not having a meter, there is not really anything to worry about in my opinion.
The "feel" of a M2 or M3 is pretty special, and they are a pleasure to use.
The "feel" of a M2 or M3 is pretty special, and they are a pleasure to use.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
BW400CN is right, but so are you! Once you have handled a Leica M and the tactile feel of one becomes you well, the Bessa still is a capable camera but it lacks that feel.
Bessa's are a lot that Leica's are but there is one thing they are not: a Leica
As for limited winder options and no meter: I wouldn't call that cons at all. And using flash is no hassle, it just requires a flash with a short cord attached, or a hotshoe adapter that plugs into the flash sync on the camera. Adds less than an inch to the flash's height.
Pro: an uncluttered viewfinder if your lenses are 35-50-90! All others have more frame lines in the finder.
zupstermix
Established
If 35 is your preferred focal length, get the M2. It's very simple and uncluttered.
Landberg
Well-known
JMQ
Well-known
I found this one from a swedish used camera store with 3 months warranty. And it is newly served.
Looks like you found your M2! a recently serviced M2 (ask to make sure that it is serviced by someone reputable), and you have the warranty. Good luck!
Landberg
Well-known
Yeah, i think so!