Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
No votes for zooms or vario lenses... I'd buy a small 28/50 CV lens anytime!
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
This is how I prefer to do my street shooting...
- Thread starter Juan Valdenebro
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clear2000
Established
I've been doing street for almost a year now and for film I use the Konica Auto S3. Digital, I use the Sigma DP2 and I just got the Sony Nex-5. I use the Voigtlander 25/4P Color-Skopar for the Nex-5. That works out to be 37.5mm, the DP2 is 40 and the KAS3 is 38mm. This range is perfect for me and I always prefocus for around 5-7 ft. I set the camera to F8 and I shoot from the hip a lot but I also use a few other techniques.
In terms of metering and light, I just take readings and adjust as I'm walking along. I always try to be mindful of the exposure but if the light is good I usually don't have any problems.
I like BW, so I process(D76) and scan Tri-X most of the time. Digital I shoot Raw and convert in pp.
I had the Konica Hexar AF and that was a almost prefect street camera but it was a little too big for me. I prefer small black fixed lens cameras. I think people get nervous when they see some one with camera in the street. I try to read peoples body language. I won't even try if the subject is nervous about being photographed. I prefer the candid shot.
In terms of metering and light, I just take readings and adjust as I'm walking along. I always try to be mindful of the exposure but if the light is good I usually don't have any problems.
I like BW, so I process(D76) and scan Tri-X most of the time. Digital I shoot Raw and convert in pp.
I had the Konica Hexar AF and that was a almost prefect street camera but it was a little too big for me. I prefer small black fixed lens cameras. I think people get nervous when they see some one with camera in the street. I try to read peoples body language. I won't even try if the subject is nervous about being photographed. I prefer the candid shot.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I voted for an in-camera meter. I didn't want to say that meterless cameras are superior. If it had said they are adequate, I think I would have voted for that.
smile
why so serious?
definitely the best option is DSLR with zoom lens, approx 300mm
DNG
Film Friendly
I prefer a 28 and M5, f/8-11 with Fuji Acros 100 @ 64.
Hyper-Focal DOF set INF - ? (typically 3' to 5')
Neck Strap. camera at mid belly, (3.5 feet from the ground)
left hand covering the top with my thumb over the plunger.
Hyper-Focal DOF set INF - ? (typically 3' to 5')
Neck Strap. camera at mid belly, (3.5 feet from the ground)
left hand covering the top with my thumb over the plunger.
l.mar
Well-known
Agreed. I recently used a cir. 1949 Ikonta C. Relatively slow to use, but sometimes slow is good --- plus it makes huge 6 x 9 negatives. Nobody paid any attention anyway, as it was during the beginning of a blizzard!
alistair.o
Well-known
35mm F2 lens for me; meter off camera or a reading in camera to confirm and away I go - I just adjust for the light. Silver or black, doesn't bother me. A smile and a chat (if possible) absolutely colourless!
I have tried the set distance thingy, but too much goes on and goes by for me to wait too long. 45 minutes is the most I have been in one location i.e. static.
Al
I have tried the set distance thingy, but too much goes on and goes by for me to wait too long. 45 minutes is the most I have been in one location i.e. static.
Al
DNG
Film Friendly
My favorite Combo, 28/50
Although I find the 50 a tad long for "Fast Action" candid. the 28 is better, preset for 4' to INF and just "Lift and Shoot", or just keep it at my belly and "Swing and Shoot"
with the 50 I have to use a 320/400 film to use f/16 with a fast shutter. With a 50, the "Lift and Shoot" method must be used IMO.
I don't do a lot of street candid, I live out in the subbrbs, and travel to Downtown Indy is $20 of gas 😱. + Parking
Vilk
Established
motorized F2, usually a 50 on it, but really any prime between 28 and 180. exposure usually taken ad hoc. idem focusing--plain matte screen still faster and more accurate than any other system i've tried (yes, including pre-focusing). we'll see how that one goes as my eyes get older
😎
overall, the above m.o. gives me a higher firing (and success) rate than a pre-everything leica M (which i also use sometimes)
😎
overall, the above m.o. gives me a higher firing (and success) rate than a pre-everything leica M (which i also use sometimes)
braver
Well-known
I have been eyeing the new micro- 4/3 cameras and especially the new panasonic primes, I think in many ways they might be cool to shoot street with. They look like fun anyway.
On the other hand, they do not really support the way I shoot now. I usually zone focus and only use the rangefinder when there is time. I meter only when the light changes, and a meter on top of the camera is better here: no distraction. I do really rely on negative film to soak up my sloppiness here though. In practice it hardly matters where the meter is though, usually I only have time for framing and composing anyway.
I follow Winogrands advice to always look through the viewfinder: composition is a central element of my photographs and you need to keep the picture taking in your own hands, not just purely rely on luck. I may just be a short peek, but just enough to make the picture. If I get a second chance on a situation, that's usually where I focus, open up the aperture, try different compositions.
Black or silver doesn't really matter in that equation, nobody noticed my silver m6 yet but my previous black one attracted attention even in the night...ymmv I guess 🙂
So I really prefer a camera that I can easily adjust to a situation and then just look, compose and snap. To me that means focusing scale, good bright viewfinder, some kind of meter.
On the other hand, they do not really support the way I shoot now. I usually zone focus and only use the rangefinder when there is time. I meter only when the light changes, and a meter on top of the camera is better here: no distraction. I do really rely on negative film to soak up my sloppiness here though. In practice it hardly matters where the meter is though, usually I only have time for framing and composing anyway.
I follow Winogrands advice to always look through the viewfinder: composition is a central element of my photographs and you need to keep the picture taking in your own hands, not just purely rely on luck. I may just be a short peek, but just enough to make the picture. If I get a second chance on a situation, that's usually where I focus, open up the aperture, try different compositions.
Black or silver doesn't really matter in that equation, nobody noticed my silver m6 yet but my previous black one attracted attention even in the night...ymmv I guess 🙂
So I really prefer a camera that I can easily adjust to a situation and then just look, compose and snap. To me that means focusing scale, good bright viewfinder, some kind of meter.
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
All applied to me.
I guess a more meaningful poll (to me) would have been:
- I prefer to do it on the street
- "Street?" What does that mean?
I guess a more meaningful poll (to me) would have been:
- I prefer to do it on the street
- "Street?" What does that mean?
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
I'm sorry if this poll didn't meet your high standards, but your great contributions remain accepted here.
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
atlcruiser
Part Yeti
I was taught by a master 🙂
Metered M6, 35/2.5 or 1.4 "set" on f8 but often messed with as needed, never do I swap lenses in the street, color seems to make little difference to me (black and gray)
or
Metered M8 set to AP mode, 28/2.8 "set" to f8 and almost never touched, no lens swaps, bright sliver and red
of course this does not include the mamiya 7 or x pan both of which excel on the street and I use as the above primary cameras.
Metered M6, 35/2.5 or 1.4 "set" on f8 but often messed with as needed, never do I swap lenses in the street, color seems to make little difference to me (black and gray)
or
Metered M8 set to AP mode, 28/2.8 "set" to f8 and almost never touched, no lens swaps, bright sliver and red
of course this does not include the mamiya 7 or x pan both of which excel on the street and I use as the above primary cameras.
Neare
Well-known
As for meters, both ways have advantages. Having an inbuilt meter does lessen exposure mistakes, however without a meter I find I shoot far quicker.
Also more and more I find myself using p&s's for street work, they're just really practical.
Also more and more I find myself using p&s's for street work, they're just really practical.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I think a Leica screwmount scale focused with an accessory finder so you don't have to squint into that damned viewfinder is hard to beat. I think their ergonomics are really suited to the street environment and I've always really liked the knob film advance.
My first venture into street shooting ever was with my 1933 Leica ll and 35mm Summaron and although I've never really warmed to street photography per se, I'll never part with this camera/lens combo in case I decide to ... 'return to the street!' 😀
My first venture into street shooting ever was with my 1933 Leica ll and 35mm Summaron and although I've never really warmed to street photography per se, I'll never part with this camera/lens combo in case I decide to ... 'return to the street!' 😀
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peterm1
Veteran
I would prefer to scale focus if I had the option but like to use slightly longer lenses so that is not really an option at all. Especially as I like to shoot with the aperture wide open or near to it. When using my M8 I am therefore stuck with trying to manually focus quickly and hope for the best. But I always get some keepers.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
(1) Do people really notice that level of detail and
(2) If they do, doesn't a shiny new lens hood make the photographer look less like a professional and more like an amateur playing with a new toy?
Cheers,
R.
Chris101
summicronia
My explanations:
A prefocused lens takes zero time to focus. Using the distance scale is the fastest way to change the focus on the fly with any accuracy. I look through the viewfinder if exact framing and focus are needed. Usually I just point the camera in the general direction of my subject and shoot one handed. I also prefer to not change lenses, so I tend to pick a lens and keep it on for a while.
I use a hand meter to check a lit scene and a shadowed scene, then set my exposure of a bright scene on f/11 or 16. Then I can open up for shadowed subjects without looking at the camera. The meter readings for shadows tell me how much to open up for shadows of varying depth.
With flash, I want the best autoexposure possible. I find that Nikon has this down. I love the weegee-esque look of flash street photography. And for street flash you NEED speed!
It seems intuitive that a small black object will be less noticeable than a silver object. But hey. If you get busted, you get busted. Old silver cameras are pretty though!
A prefocused lens takes zero time to focus. Using the distance scale is the fastest way to change the focus on the fly with any accuracy. I look through the viewfinder if exact framing and focus are needed. Usually I just point the camera in the general direction of my subject and shoot one handed. I also prefer to not change lenses, so I tend to pick a lens and keep it on for a while.
I use a hand meter to check a lit scene and a shadowed scene, then set my exposure of a bright scene on f/11 or 16. Then I can open up for shadowed subjects without looking at the camera. The meter readings for shadows tell me how much to open up for shadows of varying depth.
With flash, I want the best autoexposure possible. I find that Nikon has this down. I love the weegee-esque look of flash street photography. And for street flash you NEED speed!
It seems intuitive that a small black object will be less noticeable than a silver object. But hey. If you get busted, you get busted. Old silver cameras are pretty though!
sanmich
Veteran
I insist on framing from the eye, and I found the exact opposite to work for me:
I have the finder screwed to my eye for very long periods of time, and even try to rewind without the camera leaving my face.
That way, people do notice me, but they are not exactly sure when I take the picture, and most of the time, don't feel under aggression too much and just go on walking.
sometimes they do disappear from my finder though...
Only issue: I once did that for about twenty minutes with a CV 28mm finder, walking around and tilting the camera to play with angles and it took me a long time to understand why I felt sick. I was sea sick actually...😱
rbsinto
Well-known
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"Everyone does what they do."
RBSinTo's Law.
Which is why you'll get as many different answers as people who reply.
Me?
When I go SLR:
Three black motorized manual focus meter-equipped film bodies usually with zoom lenses.
When I go rangefinder:
Three rangefinders ( two chrome & meterless, and one black meter-equipped) with wide, medium and short tele and a motorized SLR with a longer telephoto.
Always a handheld meter in incident mode in my pocket.
And except for those walk-by shots from the hip or chest that are pre-metered and made with the lens set to hyperfocus, I prefer to focus as I shoot.
RBSinTo's Law.
Which is why you'll get as many different answers as people who reply.
Me?
When I go SLR:
Three black motorized manual focus meter-equipped film bodies usually with zoom lenses.
When I go rangefinder:
Three rangefinders ( two chrome & meterless, and one black meter-equipped) with wide, medium and short tele and a motorized SLR with a longer telephoto.
Always a handheld meter in incident mode in my pocket.
And except for those walk-by shots from the hip or chest that are pre-metered and made with the lens set to hyperfocus, I prefer to focus as I shoot.
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