matti
Established
It seems like few people use 35 mm film with Sandy Kings developer Pyrocat-HD, that they talk about over at APUG all the time. But I really like it.
It is extremely sharp with Efke 25 as in this example. Ok the girl i a little too energetic to be sharp at 1/30, but the ground just pops out. It's not only contrast, as this scene was quite contrasty to begin with with sunshine through the trees above.
Well, I like it anyway.
I havn't had time to print it yet, just a scan. So we'll see what my graded fortezo has to say about this... Probably grade 2...
/matti
It is extremely sharp with Efke 25 as in this example. Ok the girl i a little too energetic to be sharp at 1/30, but the ground just pops out. It's not only contrast, as this scene was quite contrasty to begin with with sunshine through the trees above.
Well, I like it anyway.
I havn't had time to print it yet, just a scan. So we'll see what my graded fortezo has to say about this... Probably grade 2...
/matti
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matti
Established
It's a staining and tanning developer with catechol instead of Pyro. Info can be found here:
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html
It seems like people think these kinds of developers only work for Large format, because they create huge grain. Well, they don't.
Maybe this example should have been developed a bit shorter, it is hard to tell before I try to print it. But it is efke 25@25 for 16 minutes in 21 deg C with agitation every 3rd min.
The interesting thing is that every shot on the efke 25 film could be just scanned, without any curves or so in photoshop. And the exposure must have been quite difficult in the woods.
Efke 100 also seems to be very fine in this developer (see enclosed photo).
The only drawback is that it is a bit toxic. My spouse insisted I didn't mix it myself. But as she is a PhD-student at Micro Biology, she mixed it at the lab. The stock solution, that is.
/matti
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html
It seems like people think these kinds of developers only work for Large format, because they create huge grain. Well, they don't.
Maybe this example should have been developed a bit shorter, it is hard to tell before I try to print it. But it is efke 25@25 for 16 minutes in 21 deg C with agitation every 3rd min.
The interesting thing is that every shot on the efke 25 film could be just scanned, without any curves or so in photoshop. And the exposure must have been quite difficult in the woods.
Efke 100 also seems to be very fine in this developer (see enclosed photo).
The only drawback is that it is a bit toxic. My spouse insisted I didn't mix it myself. But as she is a PhD-student at Micro Biology, she mixed it at the lab. The stock solution, that is.
/matti
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rich815
Guest
patrickjames said:
Rodinal hasn't gone away:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?q=Rodinal&catsel=all&
(and no, this is not old stock. It's being made again)
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
rich: You beat me to it! I think pyrocat and Rodinal have somewhat different looks, but the flexibility and ease of use of Rodinal makes it my #1 choice.
matti
Established
Pyrocat-hd is not harder to use than Rodinal. The compensating effects I think I see makes me think it is easier to use, actually. And if you want something like Rodinal, there is Calbe R09.
/matti
/matti
oftheherd
Veteran
Great results matti. And thanks for the link to the developer. I must try some of that. That could get me to using my Super Press 23 more.
matti
Established
Thanks. I see no reason that it wouldn't work fine with 35mm too. I ordered it pre measured from Photographers formulary.
/matti
/matti
jdef
luxologist
Hi everybody.
I just developed a roll of Fuji Acros exposed in my Olympus XA, in 510-Pyro. I think it's a winning combination, all around. 510-Pyro is as easy to use as Rodinal or HC-110, because it's also a concentrated, single-solution developer that is simply diluted with water to make a working solution, and like those developers, 510-Pyro will last practically forever on the shelf. I love my little XA! What a sleeper.
Jay
I just developed a roll of Fuji Acros exposed in my Olympus XA, in 510-Pyro. I think it's a winning combination, all around. 510-Pyro is as easy to use as Rodinal or HC-110, because it's also a concentrated, single-solution developer that is simply diluted with water to make a working solution, and like those developers, 510-Pyro will last practically forever on the shelf. I love my little XA! What a sleeper.
Jay
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rolleistef
Well-known
I'm currently using the R09 and have to admit that it's the best one I've tried so far.
OK, I havent tried many :
Ilford LC09 and Microdol, Tetenal Emofin but you really need to keep the t° steady otherwise you get grainy, 50s-looking pictures and R09.dilutions such as 1+80 or 1+100 ) and you don't need the t° to be as accurate as for thr Emofin.
All right Emofin will give you super-fine negs, but it's not designed for an occasional use.
OK, I havent tried many :
Ilford LC09 and Microdol, Tetenal Emofin but you really need to keep the t° steady otherwise you get grainy, 50s-looking pictures and R09.dilutions such as 1+80 or 1+100 ) and you don't need the t° to be as accurate as for thr Emofin.
All right Emofin will give you super-fine negs, but it's not designed for an occasional use.
T
Todd.Hanz
Guest
Jay,
good to see you here. Jay turned me on to 510 Pyro a few weeks ago and I can't thank him enough, it's a really amazing developer. I had researched some of the pyro developers and looking for one I could use with small tank developing, 35/120mm film. The general concensus was some of the pyro developers would streak and some would develop unevenly in tanks, 510 Pyro doesn't seem to exhibit these problems.
I am a novice when it comes to measuring/mixing chemicals from scratch, a bit hesitant due to the toxicity of the chemicals involved but as long as you're careful and take precautions (wear gloves and a mask) it's a breeze and worth the effort.
510 pyro is a simple developer to use, once mixed it's just like using Rodinal, just a bit thicker in consistancy. The dilution of 1:100 seems to work well, thats 3ml of developer for 300ml of water making this a pretty economical developer as well.
The results speak for themselves, sharp negs with good highlight control, not too contrasty. So far I have used Fuji Acros, Ilford Pan F, and Tri-X. The Tri-x was pretty grainy in this developer and I need to work on it some more. Here are a few samples, 35mm Acros:
good to see you here. Jay turned me on to 510 Pyro a few weeks ago and I can't thank him enough, it's a really amazing developer. I had researched some of the pyro developers and looking for one I could use with small tank developing, 35/120mm film. The general concensus was some of the pyro developers would streak and some would develop unevenly in tanks, 510 Pyro doesn't seem to exhibit these problems.
I am a novice when it comes to measuring/mixing chemicals from scratch, a bit hesitant due to the toxicity of the chemicals involved but as long as you're careful and take precautions (wear gloves and a mask) it's a breeze and worth the effort.
510 pyro is a simple developer to use, once mixed it's just like using Rodinal, just a bit thicker in consistancy. The dilution of 1:100 seems to work well, thats 3ml of developer for 300ml of water making this a pretty economical developer as well.
The results speak for themselves, sharp negs with good highlight control, not too contrasty. So far I have used Fuji Acros, Ilford Pan F, and Tri-X. The Tri-x was pretty grainy in this developer and I need to work on it some more. Here are a few samples, 35mm Acros:
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T
