dogbunny
Registered Boozer
I've reached the point where I can't resist the savings this can bring, so I'd like to try it out for a while and see if it is something I can stick with. I plan on ordering a bulk loader from Freestyle, along with some cannisters. I already have an oversized changing bag.
Can any of you more experienced people offer any tips or tricks? Things to avoid? I'll probably buy the Lloyd bulk loader. I'm not sure if there are "better" cannisters or if they are all basically the same.
Thanks in advance.
db
Can any of you more experienced people offer any tips or tricks? Things to avoid? I'll probably buy the Lloyd bulk loader. I'm not sure if there are "better" cannisters or if they are all basically the same.
Thanks in advance.
db
michaelwj
----------------
Good move. I find it so relaxing, the gentle click of the frames being wound on. My wife finds it more annoying than relaxing though.
Tips:
I use the blue masking tape (ScotchBlue Painters Tape) to secure the end to the spool. A 2 inch piece wrapped around so it secures the film on both sides. You don't need much, as long as it is on both sides. It doesn't leave any residue and is easy to remove in the change bag.
Make sure you REALLY understand how the film loads and how it comes out BEFORE you unbox the 100 ft of film. Unbox the film in the change bag. The last thing you want is to accidentally expose it all.
I stop at 30 exp per roll. I once rolled too much onto a cassette and it didn't fit on the reels.
Enjoy!
Tips:
I use the blue masking tape (ScotchBlue Painters Tape) to secure the end to the spool. A 2 inch piece wrapped around so it secures the film on both sides. You don't need much, as long as it is on both sides. It doesn't leave any residue and is easy to remove in the change bag.
Make sure you REALLY understand how the film loads and how it comes out BEFORE you unbox the 100 ft of film. Unbox the film in the change bag. The last thing you want is to accidentally expose it all.
I stop at 30 exp per roll. I once rolled too much onto a cassette and it didn't fit on the reels.
Enjoy!
benji77
@R.F.F
I love bulk loading, and I usually do it with a larger or a whiskey in hand 
I reuse the canisters, and to make it easier to remove the sticky tape, I cut them with a pair of scissors, and not the dispenser's teeth. I then mark the canister with those sticker tabs you can find in discount stores with the film type. Eg D1 (Delta 100). I leave space on the tabs so that I can write the actual shooting speed with a pen. This way, I dont always need to carry a permanent marker.
One bulk roll usually makes 18-20 rolls. You can choose to vary the lengths of the film, so that you have a variation of film (24 shots, 36 shots). This helps in shooting esp when you need a short roll before daylight fades, where you then need a high speed film.
I reuse the canisters, and to make it easier to remove the sticky tape, I cut them with a pair of scissors, and not the dispenser's teeth. I then mark the canister with those sticker tabs you can find in discount stores with the film type. Eg D1 (Delta 100). I leave space on the tabs so that I can write the actual shooting speed with a pen. This way, I dont always need to carry a permanent marker.
One bulk roll usually makes 18-20 rolls. You can choose to vary the lengths of the film, so that you have a variation of film (24 shots, 36 shots). This helps in shooting esp when you need a short roll before daylight fades, where you then need a high speed film.
kxl
Social Documentary
When the Arista films from Freestyle were readily available, there wasn't really much of a savings to be had by bulk loading. Now? Haven't done the math, but there could be some savings in buying 100ft rolls. I still have a freezer full of film so I haven't gone back to bulk loading, but I may do it again in the future.
I used to load about 30 exposures for normal use, but what I really liked about bulk loading was the option to load 10-12 exposures so I could test film/exposure/developer/dev technique combos without burning through a lot of film, e.g., stand development, mixing Xtol and Rodinal, etc...
I used to load about 30 exposures for normal use, but what I really liked about bulk loading was the option to load 10-12 exposures so I could test film/exposure/developer/dev technique combos without burning through a lot of film, e.g., stand development, mixing Xtol and Rodinal, etc...
bence8810
Well-known
I see you live in Japan - have you checked bulk film prices here? They are more expensive than buying the individual rolls (for some unknown reason).
Where are you planning on buying your film from?
Ben
Where are you planning on buying your film from?
Ben
julio1fer
Well-known
I have a Lloyd loader too. I have been using bulk load for more than 30 years.
Tips and tricks? Not much, just being careful and taking your time the first time, especially when you load the bulk loader. It is quite easy but maybe you want to practice outside the bag with a small length of film. When you can do it with your eyes closed, you are ready to go.
100 ft rolls come inside a black plastic bag. It is just film rolled into a central plastic cylinder. The cylinder has relatively narrow hole in the axis. The outer film end in the roll, the one you pass through the seal, is secured with a tape that you must take out when you load the 100 ft roll into the loader.
Inside the changing bag, open the carton and take the plastic bag out. Open the plastic bag, find the 100 ft roll, and take the outer tape out while you hold the roll well secured in your other hand. Make sure you do not allow the film to freely unroll!
To load the 100 ft roll, my technique is to take out a small length of film from the roll, pass it vertically down through the seal with my right hand while I hold the 100 ft roll with my left hand, and then thread the hole of the plastic cylinder (center of the film roll) into the metal axis of the loader.
Then make sure that you have the film roll well centered in the axis and fully down, and install the top cover. Make sure that the cover of the loader is perfectly seated before screwing in the round top that secures the top cover. The shapes of the Lloyd loader are easy to manipulate in the dark, because one side is rounded and the other is straight. The cover only seats one way.
Before loading, inspect the light seal and make sure there is no dirt there, or inside the loader.
If you are in a dry air area, roll film slowly and pause every 5 turns to allow static charges to dissipate. A spark would fog your film.
Your first canister should be a test one. I assume that you develop yourself? If so just a 12-frame roll would be enough to verify your equipment and technique. After you thread the film into your canister, make sure that the canister is well seated, in the loader, with the film seal of the canister touching the film seal in the loader. Close the little plastic door in the angle, and wind the desired number of turns. . Then take out the canister and cut the film end.
The operation is really very simple - just take your time to familiarize with everything before you do your first load.
I get 17 to 18 36-frame rolls from a 100 ft can. Cannot recommend a specific type of canister because I reuse old rolls that I got from a minilab. I just tape the film from the loader to the short end remaining in the used factory canister. Never had a problem, and I have reused these rolls tens of times.
The number of turns given in the loader are a bit conservative, but they are a safe starting point. You will calibrate the turns you need for your camera, canisters and loading technique after your first roll. In any case remember that the end of the roll from a bulk loader is fogged - it is the end that you inserted in the canister.
Good luck and let us know of any question. I am sure that this forum is full of people bulk loading.
Tips and tricks? Not much, just being careful and taking your time the first time, especially when you load the bulk loader. It is quite easy but maybe you want to practice outside the bag with a small length of film. When you can do it with your eyes closed, you are ready to go.
100 ft rolls come inside a black plastic bag. It is just film rolled into a central plastic cylinder. The cylinder has relatively narrow hole in the axis. The outer film end in the roll, the one you pass through the seal, is secured with a tape that you must take out when you load the 100 ft roll into the loader.
Inside the changing bag, open the carton and take the plastic bag out. Open the plastic bag, find the 100 ft roll, and take the outer tape out while you hold the roll well secured in your other hand. Make sure you do not allow the film to freely unroll!
To load the 100 ft roll, my technique is to take out a small length of film from the roll, pass it vertically down through the seal with my right hand while I hold the 100 ft roll with my left hand, and then thread the hole of the plastic cylinder (center of the film roll) into the metal axis of the loader.
Then make sure that you have the film roll well centered in the axis and fully down, and install the top cover. Make sure that the cover of the loader is perfectly seated before screwing in the round top that secures the top cover. The shapes of the Lloyd loader are easy to manipulate in the dark, because one side is rounded and the other is straight. The cover only seats one way.
Before loading, inspect the light seal and make sure there is no dirt there, or inside the loader.
If you are in a dry air area, roll film slowly and pause every 5 turns to allow static charges to dissipate. A spark would fog your film.
Your first canister should be a test one. I assume that you develop yourself? If so just a 12-frame roll would be enough to verify your equipment and technique. After you thread the film into your canister, make sure that the canister is well seated, in the loader, with the film seal of the canister touching the film seal in the loader. Close the little plastic door in the angle, and wind the desired number of turns. . Then take out the canister and cut the film end.
The operation is really very simple - just take your time to familiarize with everything before you do your first load.
I get 17 to 18 36-frame rolls from a 100 ft can. Cannot recommend a specific type of canister because I reuse old rolls that I got from a minilab. I just tape the film from the loader to the short end remaining in the used factory canister. Never had a problem, and I have reused these rolls tens of times.
The number of turns given in the loader are a bit conservative, but they are a safe starting point. You will calibrate the turns you need for your camera, canisters and loading technique after your first roll. In any case remember that the end of the roll from a bulk loader is fogged - it is the end that you inserted in the canister.
Good luck and let us know of any question. I am sure that this forum is full of people bulk loading.
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
Thanks everyone, lots of useful little tips here.
I only buy in Japan if I'm desperate now. I either buy from B&H, Freestyle, or Fotoimpex, depending on the film I want to buy.
I'm going to try bulk loading the the re-branded Foma films from Freestyle (100 & 200 ISO). I like those two films and they are less than 40USD for 100ft -- that works out to less than $3 per roll. I don't care for the Foma 400, so I will probably opt for HP5+, which is cheaper from B & H, though I haven't really found a developer I like with that film, but that's another story.
Even when you factor in the price of shipping, it should work out to less than $3 per roll. Of course, need to buy the loader and the cartridges. I'll give it a go and see if I can stick with it.
Too bad there's no way to bulk roll 120 film.
I only buy in Japan if I'm desperate now. I either buy from B&H, Freestyle, or Fotoimpex, depending on the film I want to buy.
I'm going to try bulk loading the the re-branded Foma films from Freestyle (100 & 200 ISO). I like those two films and they are less than 40USD for 100ft -- that works out to less than $3 per roll. I don't care for the Foma 400, so I will probably opt for HP5+, which is cheaper from B & H, though I haven't really found a developer I like with that film, but that's another story.
Even when you factor in the price of shipping, it should work out to less than $3 per roll. Of course, need to buy the loader and the cartridges. I'll give it a go and see if I can stick with it.
Too bad there's no way to bulk roll 120 film.
f16sunshine
Moderator
Hi DB
Try bulk loading for fun and flexibility before economy.
Unless you love some really inexpensive film and shoot one or two rolls per day, the economy is just not that great.
Have super shoot rolls on hand can be handy.
Feeling good about less waste is also nice.
I never found much economy with the films I love
I don't wish to sound at all negative about the subject (punny).
It just is not very much money to save. Most photographers are worth more time on their particular job (at work ) than the effort bulk rolling requires.
Try bulk loading for fun and flexibility before economy.
Unless you love some really inexpensive film and shoot one or two rolls per day, the economy is just not that great.
Have super shoot rolls on hand can be handy.
Feeling good about less waste is also nice.
I never found much economy with the films I love
I don't wish to sound at all negative about the subject (punny
). It just is not very much money to save. Most photographers are worth more time on their particular job (at work ) than the effort bulk rolling requires.
michaelwj
----------------
I use the Foma 400. It's rubbish at 400, but at 250 -320 it's great. I only use HP5 for pushing to 1600 now.
bence8810
Well-known
Yes same here - I don't buy film in Japan only when I am squeezed.
One shop to consider though is Silversalt.jp - have a look on their site - they have good pricing on Foma and Rollei / Adox films. Typically around 550 yen per roll or $4.5 USD. Way better than Yodobashi.
I only bulk load so I can perhaps also help - I bought the Watson 66 loader I have from Ebay around 30-40 USD inclusive of shipping which works great for IXMOO cassettes for Leica M4 and prior cameras. These cassettes are made of metal - expensive and rare but will last you and outlast you. Also no felt tip so no scratches (unless if you try loading 40+ frames in it which I did :bang
For my non Leica camera I use again silversalt where you can buy 10 cassettes for 1700 yen and they should work well too. They are made of tin and are sturdy - the only problem is that they have felt tips so might scratch (never happened to me though) and that if you drop one by accident, there's a good chance it'll pop open as the ends aren't that tight. Same with the plastic cassettes in my opinion - I just like the feel of tin better.
For these non IXMOO cassettes I use an AP loader I found on Yahoo auction for cheap. It is much better in terms of film economy - the watson wastes some film unless you load it in a darkbag as quite a long strap of film is exposed before you lock the loader. I only use the Watson as it can open and close the IXMOO cassette while loading and I do go through the hassle of loading in a darkbag. I save 5+% of my film this way.
Good luck and ask away if anything.
Ben
jamin-b
Well-known
I buy film whenever I visit the US, and bulk films make for less packing space, as well as flexibility and savings for b/w films. I like to be able to test a camera / lens / developer combo with a roll of 12 or 16, and find that for a typical session a 24 roll is enough. Once you get the hang of it the added time for rolling is not significant. The one downside is that when using cameras that only read DX, this usually means being locked into a 100 ASA default setting ...
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
A roll of Tri-X here is about $7USD +tax, so there is some economy to it.
I'm not resigning myself to only shooting cheapies. I do genuinely like Foma 100 and 200. I'm more trying to find a balance, I shoot in bursts--nothing this month, but 9 rolls last month. I do like the sound of a super shoot roll.
@julio1fer - thanks for the detailed post.
@bence8810 - I know of silversalt.jp but I've never actually shopped with them. I'll give them a look as well.
cheers,
db
Roger Hicks
Veteran
You may find the following useful:
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how load bulk.html (bulk loading)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how choose cassetes.html (cassettes)
Cheers,
R.
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how load bulk.html (bulk loading)
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how choose cassetes.html (cassettes)
Cheers,
R.
Fotohuis
Well-known
I am bulk loading with the AP bulk loaders, far superior to Restem/Watson type. A very short end possible to connect the film with the tape too.
My favorite bulk loading films:
Agfa Optima 400 C-41: Eur. 6,00 for 30,5m/100ft. Almost finished yet the last of 6 30,5m/100ft rolls. Sales out in 2007 at Agfa Photo.
Fomapan 100/200/400. FP200 is my favorite: Eur. 20,00 for 30,5m/100ft.
Retropan 320 Soft, a little bit more expensive.
Kodak 5222 Double-X 122m/400ft, around Eur. 160,00 in S/E.
OrWo Filmotec UN54/N74+, 122m/400ft, around Eur. 120,00 for the iso 100 cine film.
Prices Ex Works, ex VAT.
My favorite bulk loading films:
Agfa Optima 400 C-41: Eur. 6,00 for 30,5m/100ft. Almost finished yet the last of 6 30,5m/100ft rolls. Sales out in 2007 at Agfa Photo.
Fomapan 100/200/400. FP200 is my favorite: Eur. 20,00 for 30,5m/100ft.
Retropan 320 Soft, a little bit more expensive.
Kodak 5222 Double-X 122m/400ft, around Eur. 160,00 in S/E.
OrWo Filmotec UN54/N74+, 122m/400ft, around Eur. 120,00 for the iso 100 cine film.
Prices Ex Works, ex VAT.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Rebranded Foma film from Freestyle . Called Arista EDU.
Try Kentmere from BH instead. Both speeds are good. Very good.
You could also bulk load Fuji cinefilm and process it at home.
And where are good deals on expired color negs film in Japan, I was told by those who desperate to buy it not so expensive.
Kodad made in Rochester metal canisters, still possible to find. Lasts for years and hundreds of ... meters!
. Called Arista EDU.Try Kentmere from BH instead. Both speeds are good. Very good.
You could also bulk load Fuji cinefilm and process it at home.
And where are good deals on expired color negs film in Japan, I was told by those who desperate to buy it not so expensive.
Kodad made in Rochester metal canisters, still possible to find. Lasts for years and hundreds of ... meters!
mcfingon
Western Australia
I have used LPL Dayroll Deluxe loaders since the 1980's. Easy to use and reliable. My little tip is to trim the end of the film as you can see here prior to loading into the canister so it is quicker to load into the film spiral for development. Easier to trim in the daylight and less likely to take a chunk out of your fingers...
Nokton48
Veteran
I load Eastman XX film directly from the 400 foot roll to the Kodak Snap Caps. In the dark, of course. Just make sure to handle them carefully as they can pop apart. I store them in old plastic cans marked with masking tape and sharpie.
No easier way to bulk load. See below I have a hundred and forty of these myself.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kodak-Snap-...719994?hash=item1a08bc7c3a:g:HxwAAOSw5ZBWOik1
No easier way to bulk load. See below I have a hundred and forty of these myself.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kodak-Snap-...719994?hash=item1a08bc7c3a:g:HxwAAOSw5ZBWOik1
Fotohuis
Well-known
Good lord ......
Sid836
Well-known
Is there any way to save that last frame that comes out first from the bulk film loader? I hate it when I get my last frame half light burned and it almost always the frame with the highest potential in the roll.
Nokton48
Veteran
You could do the opening and cutting in a darkened room or changing bag