Tri-X 400 and rodinal 1:50

I've been fooling around a bit with Carter's HC-110/Rodianl mix, but mostly with HP5+. I did develop a roll of Tri-X in it, though, and the two photos below were both rated at 320, and souped in 500ml of developer, ( 8ml HC-110, 2ml Rodinal ) @ 11.5 minutes, with agitation for the first 30 seconds, then 2 or 3 gentle inversions each minute.

I like the results, but I'm currently trying to use straight Rodinal with limited agitation to see if I can cut back on a bit of the grain. I prefer this combo on HP5+, where I've adjusted the "mix" to include 8ml HC-110 and 3ml of Rodinal.
 
THe original poster's poor contrast may not require a longer developing time. If they're scans from the negatives, he just needs to increase contrast with some curves adjustments in Photoshop. Low contrast film scans are common on RFF because so many people here do not realize that scans MUST be adjusted in PS to look good.

Here's some of my Tri-X in Rodinal results. I like it.

leica49.jpg

Contrast was very high because of harsh sun. Should have given (N-1) development but the pic was a quick shot on a roll that had been started on an overcast day and had important images for a project I am working on.

leica45.jpg

EI-320. normal dev. in Rodinal 1+50

leica43.jpg

EI-160, (N-1) dev. Rodinal 1_50
 
Nice shots, jpa66. I've only been developing bw myself for about a year, so I'm still relatively new at this. I've been trying to get a look that's much closer to the shot that Maddoc posted above, but my early efforts with TriX @ 400 in Rodinal 1:50 were much too grainy for my taste. After reading some threads here and following suggestions by Carter and mfogiel, I dropped the iso to 250 and also cut way back on agitation (e.g., 2-3 igentle nversions every 2 or 5 minutes). Much better. But I also tried developing TriX shot at iso 400 in HC 110 dil. e, and found the results were even closer to the look I was aiming for.

TriX @ 250 in Rodinal 1:50 w/ reduced agitation:

3697207992_e8f0bc2133_o.jpg


TriX @ 400 in HC 110 dil. e, 8 mins.:

4063443852_a9d9e0408d_o.jpg



Carter's method of mixing HC 110 and Rodinal, though, gets brilliant highlights AND nice shadow tones. Takes things to a new level, IMO.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
THe original poster's poor contrast may not require a longer developing time. If they're scans from the negatives, he just needs to increase contrast with some curves adjustments in Photoshop. Low contrast film scans are common on RFF because so many people here do not realize that scans MUST be adjusted in PS to look good.
Click to expand...

Love Tri-X in Rodinal!!!
3846895644_fc00ef7a49_o.jpg


3693385637_a8fc26a061_o.jpg


3642041140_6b09932132_o.jpg


Todd
 
Did some difrent corrections in photoshop lightroom in the same photo, begining from the negative scan. Here is:







I scan my negatives at Millions of Colors (24-bit), then convert to greyscale in photoshop. Should I continue or should I scan my negatives at 256 Gray Shades (8-bit grayscale)?
 
Rhodes said:
Did some difrent corrections in photoshop lightroom in the same photo, begining from the negative scan. Here is:

I scan my negatives at Millions of Colors (24-bit), then convert to greyscale in photoshop. Should I continue or should I scan my negatives at 256 Gray Shades (8-bit grayscale)?
Click to expand...

Neither. You want 16bit greyscale. 8 bit grey and 24 bit color are the same quality...24 bit color is really 8 bit per color channel and converting it to greyscale throws away the other channels. 16 bit grey gives much more ability to edit without losing image quality. If you scan color pics, you want 48 bit color
 
New scanner for xtmas! My scanner don't have 16bit greyscale option nor 48 bit color. The top is 24 and then 256 (8) bit color,256 color palett, web palett, 256 Gray Shades (8-bit) and black and with (1 bit).
 
Rhodes, thanks ! 🙂 The V700 is a really good alternative to the Coolscans, especially for color. 😉 ( I have both, an Coolscan 4000ED and Epson V700)

@ Jaans, to make life easier when using HC-110, I now use HC-110 "stock-solution" (diluting 100ml of the US syrup with 300ml of water) and make the working solution (in my case always "B") by diluting the stock solution (for "B" it is 1 + 7). The stock-solution can be stored in a fridge for up to two month, it is slowly getting darker but no difference in the results.

I found that I get much more consistent results diluting a large part of the syrup than fiddling with a small syringe .... (I am a chemist and used to do laboratory work)
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
THe original poster's poor contrast may not require a longer developing time. If they're scans from the negatives, he just needs to increase contrast with some curves adjustments in Photoshop. Low contrast film scans are common on RFF because so many people here do not realize that scans MUST be adjusted in PS to look good.

Here's some of my Tri-X in Rodinal results. I like it.

leica49.jpg

Contrast was very high because of harsh sun. Should have given (N-1) development but the pic was a quick shot on a roll that had been started on an overcast day and had important images for a project I am working on.

leica45.jpg

EI-320. normal dev. in Rodinal 1+50

leica43.jpg

EI-160, (N-1) dev. Rodinal 1_50
Click to expand...

Great shots Chris! Are you mixing Rodinal with HC-110 these days or are you developing with Rodinal straight up?

I notice your photos are higher contrast than normal - what is your relationship with this contrast? Is it for aesthetic reasons. The reason that I ask (its not a criticism) is that I want to get higher contrast with my images but am worried about losing the highlights, or blowing them out. So, how do you retain the highlights with these photos>??
 
Jaans said:
Great shots Chris! Are you mixing Rodinal with HC-110 these days or are you developing with Rodinal straight up?

I notice your photos are higher contrast than normal - what is your relationship with this contrast? Is it for aesthetic reasons. The reason that I ask (its not a criticism) is that I want to get higher contrast with my images but am worried about losing the highlights, or blowing them out. So, how do you retain the highlights with these photos>??
Click to expand...

Jaans,

I just used Rodinal. I've never used HC-110. I expose the film at 320 and develop for 11 minutes at 20C/68F. That's for normal lighting conditions (cloudy, not harsh sun) and gives a normal contrast neg with good highlight and shadow detail. If the neg is too contrasty, its hard to hold the highlights in the final image after scanning the film.

Here's my developing times for different films and developers I have tested and used:

http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/developing.php

I scan the film, which on my Nikon 8000ED with Vuescan, gives a really flat image. I use several curves adjustments to bring the contrast up in the midtones, while being careful not to let the highlights and shadows get lost. I also dodge and burn quite a lot on many of my photos to bring back detail that might get lost because of increasing the midtone contrast.

Here's some examples:
http://chriscrawfordphoto.com/technical/scanning.php
 
Chris: Thats a fantastic educational site that you have constructed - I have bookmarked the developing times as well.

It is very interesting to see the evolution of your scans from flat contrast to a more biting contrast. Thanks again for sharing!
 
I've never been one to shoot much Tri-x, generally preferring Neopan or Delta as my 400 speed films (depending on what I want). However, I kind of like the grain you get with this combo. I definitely recommend 1+50 over 1+25 though:

1+25 is quite grainy:

Untitled by redisburning, on Flickr
 
Some great images on this thread. I love the look of Tri-X in Rodinal 1:50 and I have been using this combo for a while. I also like Tri-X in HC-110 dilution H and having both developers in house I can readily choose the look I like for each subject. Full marks to Carterjohn for combining Rodinal and HC-110. That sort of innovation is how to get a look all of your own. Today I souped a roll of Tri-X in HC-110 using the same semi stand technique as I use with Rodinal. The negatives look really good. It is how my brain works. What if I try this. ?? Techniques learnt with one developer can and do inspire improved technique with other developers. All part of the learning curve.
 
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