squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
OK, I did it for 7 minutes in stock solution, turning it over twice and tapping every minute. I think it was like 70 degrees--I got fed up waiting for it to get down to 68. ;-)
I like how it turned out.
I like how it turned out.

40oz
...
I think it turned out all right. :thumbup:
MichaelHarris
Well-known
Here is a couple from yesterday using Tri-X stock and whatever time is listed inside the box. I forget but I think it was 6:45
I shot it with a Mamiya RZ67 and the 110 2.8 lens


I shot it with a Mamiya RZ67 and the 110 2.8 lens
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
hey Chris, thanks for the 'splanation. I've always just shot at the rated speed and then used the Massive Dev chart. It works but as usual you eventually find out there's always another level
I've never read about Zone systems or using it to deal with light situations like you described. Then developing 'off chart' so to speak. I guess I've got some homework and I just love homework. I'm sure I'll be better for it tho.
BTW I've liked your BW work you put up in another thread here at RFF
Thanks Jan,
The Zone system is a way of measuring the brightness of different things in your photo and setting exposure and developing time to ensure that the dark tones have enough exposure and the bright tones are developed to the correct density to bring any scene to normal contrast. Kinda slow and tedious for anything but landscapes, architecture, etc....not easy to do with street photography, etc. For street photos and other candid or fast work I'd just develop normally (what the manufacturer recommends usually works well as a normal) for overcast days, and if the light looks contrasty (sunny day for example) then give 30% less dev time and overexpose one stop. That'll get you close most of the time, though on the sunny days you might want to bracket if there is a lot of deep shadow area you want to have detail, just in case the contrast is high enough to require more exposure than the basic one stop over that is needed to compensate for the lower dev. time. But like I said, 30% less developing and one stop extra exposure will get you close on most sunny day situations.
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