Tri-X 400 in D76

Depends on the dilution, tank size, what speed you rated the film at, and temperature. I use D76 with Tri-X 1+1 for 10 minutes @ 68 degrees Fahrenheit.

D76 and Tri-X is bog stock, so Kodak has the data you seek, and their info should be depended upon. If it were cross-manufacturer or some weird coupling of developer and film, then Massive Dev Chart is the way to go.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.jhtml
 
6.75 is the recommended development. Develop a roll and see how the negatives look. Too thin, develop longer or lower the ASA rating on your camera. Too dense, expose and develop accordingly. Some people agitate every 30 seconds. Some, once every minute. There is no real standard. These are suggested times.
 
It is common to see more than one time on the Massive Development Chart, because it usually includes times for older versions of the film. Look to the right and you will see a hyperlink that says "Notes," for one of the entries. Click on that and it takes to this, "Development data is taken from a previous version of this film. Starting point time remains the same."

Paul
 
I have had good success with TX 400 (the current version of Tri-X in 400 speed) in 6:45 (stock) and 9:45 (1:1) at 20C. In my experience, stock will give you less visible grain than 1:1.

aparat
 
With the greatest respect to other posters, 8 minutes is correct! Anything less and your negs will be too thin. I was caught out by the shorter time and it's a mystery as to why Kodak shows this time, however I guess that's why Digitaltruth continues to show the old time "Development data is taken from a previous version of this film. Starting point time remains the same." My time for 1+1 is 11 minutes.
 
Heh heh, perhaps I'll try 7.37 minutes...

...I'm using stock solution, BTW. Very new to developing, so I'm just now beginning to find out what works for me, and what I like.

Thanks!
 
What is right is what is right for you. You are required to test.

For me, ISO 400 D76 1:1 for a condenser enlarger is 9.75 min. If I use stock solution time is 6.5.

Your water PH is different than mine. Your agitation is perhaps different. Your enlarger is more or less contrasty than mine. You camera and enlarging lenses are different.

You need to test.
 
All the above posters are correct,that is that there is no one perfect time for everyone. I rate my Tri-x by the contrast of the scene. Flat lighting, such as heavy overcast, I rate the film at 650 and dev it in D76 straight for 9 min at 68 degrees. Normal contrast I rate the film at 400 and develop it at 8 min straight or 10 min ,1 to 1. For Bright sun ,(Arizona in the summertime) I rate my Tri-x at 200 and develop it for 8 min at 1 to 1. Try a time ,see if the negs work for you, and adjust so that you get a neg that is best for your photography. I fine that its better to add contrast to your final image, not by developing longer as this adds grain, but instead doing it with photoshop, or a higher grade paper.The trick is doing it the same way with each step, every time so you are consistent.
 
Last edited:
Michael, I'd be very interested in seeing some shots taken as you describe above here

"For Bright sun ,(Arizona in the summertime) I rate my Tri-x at 200 and develop it for 8 min at 1 to 1."

That's one full stop over exposure in AZ sun. I'm surprised by this since I would think it blows out highlights etc. Could you include an image in this thread. I'm intrigued to see how this looks. I'd have gone for some underexposure and rated at say 640 ISO. Thanks
 
Jan,

In bright contrasy sun you overexpose and underdevelop. The underdeveloping reduces contrast, keeping the highlights in check. It also cuts about a stop of film speed, so you need to add a stop to keep the shadow detail (so its not really overexposing..the film speed drops so you expose accordingly). The usual procedure is to reduce dev. time by 20-30% from normal for this kind of light. Zone system users call it N-1 developing.
 
hey Chris, thanks for the 'splanation. I've always just shot at the rated speed and then used the Massive Dev chart. It works but as usual you eventually find out there's always another level

I've never read about Zone systems or using it to deal with light situations like you described. Then developing 'off chart' so to speak. I guess I've got some homework and I just love homework. I'm sure I'll be better for it tho.

BTW I've liked your BW work you put up in another thread here at RFF
 
Ronald M said:
What is right is what is right for you. You are required to test.

For me, ISO 400 D76 1:1 for a condenser enlarger is 9.75 min. If I use stock solution time is 6.5.

Your water PH is different than mine. Your agitation is perhaps different. Your enlarger is more or less contrasty than mine. You camera and enlarging lenses are different.

You need to test.
Click to expand...


Very true indeed...

I feel like an outsider with my numbers...
Tri-X or Neopan 400 gets D-76 1:1 @ 68* for 12 minutes, agitate for 15 seconds every two minutes...I like my negs and they print just fine with my enlarger...
You gotta find what works for YOU!!!
 
Jan , Christopher did a good job of explaining about overexposure and underdevelopment. I had a quick look though my photos and I do not see one that jumps out as one that I did this with . Most of the times that I had to do that , was when I was shooting film for the paper and had to shoot a photo at noon on a summer day. Those photos are not here in my gallery, but there are many examples of Tri-x and D76 here, if you open the photo , I almost always put the film dev combo in the details, and as I said 99.9% of all these B&W are tri-x.

http://photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=947345&include=all&unlimit=1
 
Last edited:
nikon_sam said:
Very true indeed...

I feel like an outsider with my numbers...
Tri-X or Neopan 400 gets D-76 1:1 @ 68* for 12 minutes, agitate for 15 seconds every two minutes...I like my negs and they print just fine with my enlarger...
You gotta find what works for YOU!!!
Click to expand...

You agitate a lot less than most people do, and that could account for you needing a longer Dev. Time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom