Landberg
Well-known
Hi!
I often shoot tri-x 400 at 1600 even in bright sunlight (it get a bit over exposed some time). I'm thinking of adding a yellow filter in to the mix. Anyone have any experience with trip-x 1600 and a yellow filter? The filter has a 1 stop factor so in bright sunlight i should be able to shoot at around 1/1000 at f/16 and still develop it at 1600.
I always find my self wanting a more contrasty look when i se my photos.
Is this a good idea or am i just crazy?
Please share som pictures if you want to?
I often shoot tri-x 400 at 1600 even in bright sunlight (it get a bit over exposed some time). I'm thinking of adding a yellow filter in to the mix. Anyone have any experience with trip-x 1600 and a yellow filter? The filter has a 1 stop factor so in bright sunlight i should be able to shoot at around 1/1000 at f/16 and still develop it at 1600.
I always find my self wanting a more contrasty look when i se my photos.
Is this a good idea or am i just crazy?
Please share som pictures if you want to?
Huss
Veteran
If the filter is 1x that means no change in exposure. If it is 2x, then it means it needs one stop more. Are you sure the yellow filter is 2x? Most are 1x.
Landberg
Well-known
It has a filter factor 2 witch means 1 stop? Or am i wrong?
The real question is if it is a good idea to shoot 1600 in bright sunlight with a yellow filter?
The real question is if it is a good idea to shoot 1600 in bright sunlight with a yellow filter?
Dwig
Well-known
None of the yellow "contrast filters" have a filter factor of 1x, 0 stops.
The common "yellow" filters have a factor around 2x, 1 stop, on most films though some are stronger and have factors in the 3x, ~1.5 stop, range.
check out this link for a simple list: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_factor
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
Yellow filters are almost completely ineffectual with many modern films, and using a by-the-book filter factor when pushing film will negate what you are trying to do.
To get the contrast you want when pushing, blue tones have to be near, at Zone V, or below it - since pushing expands the highlights. So you need stronger suppression.
I would recommend trying a yellow-orange filter like a Hoya G, exposing at 640-800 ISO and developing for 50% longer than normal development (so pushing two stops not by the data sheet but by the old convention for N+2). That's using Xtol or D76. And adjust from there. With Xtol it should be like 10.5 minutes at 20c/68f.
Dante
To get the contrast you want when pushing, blue tones have to be near, at Zone V, or below it - since pushing expands the highlights. So you need stronger suppression.
I would recommend trying a yellow-orange filter like a Hoya G, exposing at 640-800 ISO and developing for 50% longer than normal development (so pushing two stops not by the data sheet but by the old convention for N+2). That's using Xtol or D76. And adjust from there. With Xtol it should be like 10.5 minutes at 20c/68f.
Dante
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I had x1 (0) yellow filter once on Summar.
It made very subtle difference in the contrast.
If you need contrast of film, get modern lens like CV and get deep x4 filter. Use 400 film @100 with filter like this.
You could also always add contrast in PP as well, by computer or enlarger filter.
It made very subtle difference in the contrast.
If you need contrast of film, get modern lens like CV and get deep x4 filter. Use 400 film @100 with filter like this.
You could also always add contrast in PP as well, by computer or enlarger filter.
oltimer
Well-known
I purchased the complete set of contrast filters from Leica in the E39 thread back in 1966, with inter-locking holders. Mind you we had very slow Black and white film at that time as Dante is talking about now. The yellow was a 1x, and still use this set today.
Pherdinand
the snow must go on
Theres a huge step between 1x and 2x. No filters- not even a clear UV- can, physically, be exactly 1x.
Yellow filters are weak on some scenes and rather strong on others. E.g. If you take shots indoors it will be much weaker than if you put a lot of blue sky into your frame. Thats the point of a filter...
I'd say outdoors on a nice day yellow filters probably cut you a good third stop short, maybe even a half.
Easiest is to verify with a meter
Yellow filters are weak on some scenes and rather strong on others. E.g. If you take shots indoors it will be much weaker than if you put a lot of blue sky into your frame. Thats the point of a filter...
I'd say outdoors on a nice day yellow filters probably cut you a good third stop short, maybe even a half.
Easiest is to verify with a meter
Dwig
Well-known
While technically true, in practical photographic terms where any exposure related values are rounded to the nearest 1/3 stop, all UV and Skylight filters would round to 1x.
I agree with Dante, that the common yellow filters (e.g. Wratten #8 aka K2, ...) are too weak to be of any practical use with modern films.
Dwig
Well-known
I had x1 (0) yellow filter once on Summar.
...
The filter is in the picture is what is commonly called a Skylight filter. It has no impact on modern (read "made after ~1970) films.
Dante_Stella
Rex canum cattorumque
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
In Leica book it is called as "yellow filter, №0, very light".
https://books.google.ca/books?id=yY...=0CFUQ6AEwDA#v=onepage&q=Fihel filter&f=false
Yes, I'm aware of its effect since I was actually using it for taking pictures with film.
Commonly and correct isn't always the same, btw.