Tri-X at 400... Wow

grapejohnson

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Since Tri-X is so easily pushable, and gives such great results at 1600, it's my go-to high speed film. Since my K1000's meter isn't as capable as some of my more advanced cameras, I shot a roll at 400 again (developed it in D-76 1:1) and I remembered why I started buying Tri-X in the first place...

This is the picture that made me really fall for it:

julia by scottkessler, on Flickr

and here's what brought me back:

kelsey by scottkessler, on Flickr

Pushing film for convenience and really high contrast is cool, but I almost regret shooting so much of it so fast since those middle grays are so incredible.


liz by scottkessler, on Flickr
The convenience of being able to take a picture like this in almost no light is great, but the other two look sooooooo much better.
 
Do you have any examples of 1600 in Diafine? I use D76, as I only have that and Rodinal in stock at the moment, and in Rodinal it would be ridiculously grainy.

Grainy in Rodinal? Not really... D76 isn't a fine grain developer either.

Want fine grain and exceptional grays? Xtol.
 
Grainy in Rodinal? Not really... D76 isn't a fine grain developer either.

Want fine grain and exceptional grays? Xtol.

I'll try out Xtol next time if that's the case. How is it with HP5? I don't have much experience with many developers yet.

Rodinal seems to be a lot grainer with faster films than it is slower, hence my assumption of graininess. I'll try it out again, too. Maybe I agitate too much.
 
Sure, I shoot 1600 not a whole lot that Infigured Diafine would be the perfect chem for those days, otherwise I shoot at 400 in HC-110, but D76 is beautiful too 🙂

photo-85.jpg
 
Boy, you're in for a treat:

Try HP5+; same tonality and grain and it dries perfectly flat, unlike TriX.

Oh yeah, I love HP5, i shoot it all the time, but it usually looks more contrasty than this for me. Not that there's anything wrong with that. There's just something "creamy" about Tri-X that I haven't seen other than in Neopan.

I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir with this, it's just funny to me that it's been under my nose this whole time.

I do hate that Kodak curl, though, BTW. I wonder if anything curbs it?
 
Had my first outing with Tri-X 2 weeks ago.


Graflex Combat Graphic 4x5 (Kodak 127mm f/4.7 Anastigmat), with Graphic 23 Roll film adapter.

FE130373.jpg


FE130374.jpg



I'm starting to see why it has such a great following
 
Do you have any examples of 1600 in Diafine? I use D76, as I only have that and Rodinal in stock at the moment, and in Rodinal it would be ridiculously grainy.

D76 and Rodinal would in my experience give similar grain appearance at least to up to 8x12."
At those print sizes the difference is marginal given good technique; I guess 'ridiculously grainy' is perceptual based upon individual preference.

Here is a similar high contrast light type shot Rodinal & Tri-x

73761617.jpg


I think exposure is more critical than you'd imagine. Metering for emerging shadow detail then stopping down two stops is going to give you a more accurate idea of apparent grain.

59819421.jpg

Gritty but not that grainy IMO (even if it is a hair underexposed)

Oh, of course. I just never got such good tonality before, maybe only in certain shots of Fomapan 100 in sunlight.

Exposure is the key; I think a lot of people underexpose Tri-x it's the exposure and subsequent development that gives the 'tonality' you crave. I think metering for the shadow where detail starts to emerge and stopping down two stops makes more of a difference than developer type when dealing with grain.
Look at this film (Delta 3200) pushed to 6400 (EI) and developed in Rodinal

92789242.jpg

There is tonality because I exposed in order to place those tones where they could be recorded. In other words I set my spot meter to 6400 and metered the black bag on the right then stop down 2 stops.
 
Tried-and-true. Tri-X in D76 1:1.
I tend to shoot it at 200 these days as I seem to have an easier time printing denser negatives, but a very versatile film.
I agree about HP5 drying flatter, though. Much better for coaxing into the enlarger negative carrier.

7488250288_b5f8b2a3a8_z.jpg
 
Oh yeah, I love HP5, i shoot it all the time, but it usually looks more contrasty than this for me. Not that there's anything wrong with that. There's just something "creamy" about Tri-X that I haven't seen other than in Neopan.

Contrast is a function of exposure and development. I can make Tri-x look higher contrast than HP5 and vice versa under the same lighting. Given the same treatment I doubt many could tell the difference.

Low contrast Hp5?
114791585.jpg
 
Oh yeah, I love HP5, i shoot it all the time, but it usually looks more contrasty than this for me. Not that there's anything wrong with that. There's just something "creamy" about Tri-X that I haven't seen other than in Neopan.
I think the contrast issue you're experiencing is because you underexpose the film; I get HP5+ as smooth as TriX in both D76 and XTOL 😀
 
Good tips and advice all around.

Photo_smith/Jockos, I've been more careful metering lately, I guess maybe that explains it? I feel kind of dumb, I know you can make film look however you want based on how you expose and develop it as far as contrast and things go, I've been teaching myself everything with the aid of this site so I was just sharing what I've observed so far.
 
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