GusW
Newbie
Dear all
I have always used Ilford HP5 developed with Ilfotec HC. We do not have Kodak film readily availible in South Africa. But I am now based in London, UK and thought i'd give Tri X a go.
First question, how does tri x respond to being pushed to 800/1600. Secondly, what developer do you guys suggest.
Thank you
gus
I have always used Ilford HP5 developed with Ilfotec HC. We do not have Kodak film readily availible in South Africa. But I am now based in London, UK and thought i'd give Tri X a go.
First question, how does tri x respond to being pushed to 800/1600. Secondly, what developer do you guys suggest.
Thank you
gus
laurentb
Established
I've -almost- always used HC110 for Tri-X in all formats (Tri-X 400 in 35mm, Tri-X 320 in MF and LF) and am pleased with the results.
hans voralberg
Veteran
Looks good with a tad more grain, I used DDX with good result, I guess Xtol or Rodinal is also popular.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
D-76 diluted 1+1 probably is the best overall developer I have used for normal speed use. I have never pushed Tri-X, but Other films I have pushed work well in tmax Developer. Straight D-76 is the traditional choice for pushing Tri-X, but I have not tried that.
Tri-X in D-76 1+1
Rodinal 1+50 works well and has surprisingly fine grain, though its finer in D76 or Tmax Developer.
This is Tri-X in Tmax Developer diluted 1+7. I like it too.
So...tradition is D-76, Ilford ID-11 is very similar if you cannot find D-76 where you're at. If you can't find either, Tmax Developer is good too but rather expensive...but is convenient since its a liquid. Rodinal for higher sharpness but more grain.
Tri-X in D-76 1+1
Rodinal 1+50 works well and has surprisingly fine grain, though its finer in D76 or Tmax Developer.
This is Tri-X in Tmax Developer diluted 1+7. I like it too.
So...tradition is D-76, Ilford ID-11 is very similar if you cannot find D-76 where you're at. If you can't find either, Tmax Developer is good too but rather expensive...but is convenient since its a liquid. Rodinal for higher sharpness but more grain.
bidnez
Established
Well, after a friend on another forum preached the gospel of TriX + XTOL, I´ve never looked back. It´s a great combo - maybe especially at 1600 and 3200.
jmcd
Well-known
Chriscrawfordphoto's first Tri-x example, in D-76 1:1, has a super smooth look, with full contrast on what looks like an overcast day.
And texture is simply outstanding in the second example, in Rodinal 1:50.
Great examples.
Do you shoot at 400, Chriscrawfordphoto?
And texture is simply outstanding in the second example, in Rodinal 1:50.
Great examples.
Do you shoot at 400, Chriscrawfordphoto?
marke
Well-known
Chris, I didn't know that about using straight D-76 when pushing Tri-X. I've always used it 1:1, whether pushing or not, but I might have to try it straight sometime.
Here's one pushing Tri-X to 1600 and using D-76 at 1:1.
mfogiel
Veteran
Look at the end of this thread:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82050&page=2
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82050&page=2
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Chris, I didn't know that about using straight D-76 when pushing Tri-X. I've always used it 1:1, whether pushing or not, but I might have to try it straight sometime.
Here's one pushing Tri-X to 1600 and using D-76 at 1:1.
I haven't actually tried it; I feel that Tmax 3200 or Delta 3200 both give MUCH better results for speeds over 400. I got the recommeendation for straight D-76 from my photo professor in college years ago, and I have seen it repeated in several books too, including the Film Developing Cookbook.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
They were all shot at 320. I think you could probably get away with using 400 for the D-76 or Tmax Developers, but for Rodinal you definately need to give more exposure than you'd get at 400. I have only done a couple rolls in Rodinal (I used to use that combo a lot yrs ago but Tri-X has been reformulated since then) and I am thinking that it has to have more exposure than you get at 400. I prefer Tri-X at 320 in D-76 and Tmax too but I think the results would be ok at 400 in them.
pschauss
Well-known
I use HC110 dilution H (half of dilution B) for box speed. For pushing to 1250 I use Diafine.
padraigm
Established
When you are rating Tri-x at 320 do you pull the development times? I have been rating it at 250 lately and pulling the development 30% and quite pleased with the results.But I am loosing speed. Rating at 400 with normal development always seemed to be a bit grainy unless in very dull conditions for me. I typically use Hc-110.
marke
Well-known
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Depends on what light conditions you shoot under. If I am shooting on overcast days, I use normal development times and EI-320. If its harsh and sunny, then EI-160 and 30% less development. With normal development times Tri-X gives a true EI of 320. I measured with a densitometer and my actually real world exposures bear this out. Assuming your meter is accurate...many are not. I have 2 handheld spot meters and four 35mm SLRs with built in spot metering and all of them are calibrated to match each other and are spot on. Most people are not so obsessed with technical consitancy/perfection. I am.
bmattock
Veteran
It is one of the most versatile B&W films made. Very pushable.
D-76 1+1 or if you can't obtain that, Ilford ID11 which is supposedly the same stuff. I also use Diafine with Tri-X quite often. I rate the film at EI 1200 when using with Diafine.
md2008
Established
I use HC110 Dilution H with film rated at 400 or 800 - for 1 stop underexposure, I generally don't change my development times because I'm usually developing a roll of EI400 with a roll of EI800 in the same tank - I don't have much time to do developing and when I do, those are the two rolls that always seem ready to go. Results might be better if I did them separately but I've got to make the most of the little photography time I have 
. I've found this combo is very convenient due to the one shot developer and shelf life of the syrup. It also scans quite well if you have a hybrid workflow:
(Film is actually Arista Premium 400)
. I've found this combo is very convenient due to the one shot developer and shelf life of the syrup. It also scans quite well if you have a hybrid workflow:
(Film is actually Arista Premium 400)
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le vrai rdu
Well-known
I do love trix with D76 1+1 but I would like to try HC110
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Tri-x and Rodinal with minimal agitation (3 inverses per 4 minutes):
charjohncarter
Veteran
TriX at 250 in HC-110 using Ansel Adam's compensating method:
