pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
Hi.
New to developing my films, and i have beginners questions
What is the relation between agitation and grain?
What happens if i develop for less time or for more time than recomended?
Last, can anyone recomend a good book for developing technics, covering tri-x and Rodinal?
Thanks,
Pedro Reis
New to developing my films, and i have beginners questions
What is the relation between agitation and grain?
What happens if i develop for less time or for more time than recomended?
Last, can anyone recomend a good book for developing technics, covering tri-x and Rodinal?
Thanks,
Pedro Reis
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Pedro: I do not have a suggestion at hand for a book, but I have used Tri-X in Rodinal in the past and liked it. (My standard developer was HC-110 at the time, but now I will be trying Ilford DD-X as well.)
The standard wisdom is that grain is increased with agitation and wet time. According to this theory, one should increase temperature a bit to reduce wet time, use minimal agitation and make sure all soutions are at the same temperature.
My last foray with Rodinal I used 23deg C, 5 seconds of agitation at the beginning, and one inversion per minute thereafter.
The best online source of information on developing techniques in general and Rodinal in particular is the APUG forum, but there is a log of knowledge here, too.
Trius
The standard wisdom is that grain is increased with agitation and wet time. According to this theory, one should increase temperature a bit to reduce wet time, use minimal agitation and make sure all soutions are at the same temperature.
My last foray with Rodinal I used 23deg C, 5 seconds of agitation at the beginning, and one inversion per minute thereafter.
The best online source of information on developing techniques in general and Rodinal in particular is the APUG forum, but there is a log of knowledge here, too.
Trius
24x30
I don't know my own mind
Rodinal is the magic developing soup
... everything is possible. Ask 10 persons and get min. 11 answers.
In my opinion no book is necessary. Rodinal is normaly used at 20° Celcius, for this temerature you get all those nice times at the web (for example: Massdevchart ). Just to start you can use it at 1+25 7 minutes (agitation every minute). Just try an look how it fits to you.
/rudi
In my opinion no book is necessary. Rodinal is normaly used at 20° Celcius, for this temerature you get all those nice times at the web (for example: Massdevchart ). Just to start you can use it at 1+25 7 minutes (agitation every minute). Just try an look how it fits to you.
/rudi
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Welcome/Bienvenido/Bem Vindo to the world of Rodinal 
- Rodinal can be used in several dilutions, being 1+25 and 1+50 the most common ones.
- By diluting Rodinal, and opposed to D76 and other developers, grain is smaller and tonality seems to be longer (IMHO)
- Agitation and grain do not relate as much as contrast and agitation. Agitation helps fresh developer to reach the film, thus developing the "blacks" (highlights) more.
- With rodinal it seems to be a good technique to agitate less than with other developers. Depending on the length of your development time a once a minute agitation works better to keep the contrast in check.
- With TriX, expect to see some "interesting" grain, shooting TriX at 200 is a common practice, and develop in Rodinal 1+50 or even 1+100.
- There is a lot of Rodinal-holics here, in APUG, photo-net and such places gthat can be of great help with techniques and such.
- IMHO the best trick I have used with rodinal yet is adding Vitamin C!
- Rodinal can be used in several dilutions, being 1+25 and 1+50 the most common ones.
- By diluting Rodinal, and opposed to D76 and other developers, grain is smaller and tonality seems to be longer (IMHO)
- Agitation and grain do not relate as much as contrast and agitation. Agitation helps fresh developer to reach the film, thus developing the "blacks" (highlights) more.
- With rodinal it seems to be a good technique to agitate less than with other developers. Depending on the length of your development time a once a minute agitation works better to keep the contrast in check.
- With TriX, expect to see some "interesting" grain, shooting TriX at 200 is a common practice, and develop in Rodinal 1+50 or even 1+100.
- There is a lot of Rodinal-holics here, in APUG, photo-net and such places gthat can be of great help with techniques and such.
- IMHO the best trick I have used with rodinal yet is adding Vitamin C!
pedro.m.reis said:Hi.
New to developing my films, and i have beginners questions![]()
What is the relation between agitation and grain?
What happens if i develop for less time or for more time than recomended?
Last, can anyone recomend a good book for developing technics, covering tri-x and Rodinal?
Thanks,
Pedro Reis
S
sljm
Guest
Well my own personal Tri-X and rodinal times
1+50 iso 400 11mins
1+50 iso 400 11mins
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
Hi have some samples in my gallery of my home made developing using Tri-x and Rodinal.
Some opinions will be apreciated!
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2960
Some opinions will be apreciated!
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=2960
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
The midtones look realy good, but IMHO the shadows nees some improvement.
Specially in the Charrete picture
Specially in the Charrete picture
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
What are the shadows? How can i improve-it? 
Thanks
Thanks
kaiyen
local man of mystery
Shadows are defined by exposure. So increase your exposure OR decrease your EI. Are you rating TXT @ 400? Try 320, or 250 (your shadows are pretty black, so perhaps 250 rather than 320).
Of course, you also have to consider how you are metering. If you're just using averaging or center-weighted metering, you'll have less control over shadows from shot to shot than if you spot-metered the shadows specifically.
allan
Of course, you also have to consider how you are metering. If you're just using averaging or center-weighted metering, you'll have less control over shadows from shot to shot than if you spot-metered the shadows specifically.
allan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
Shadows (sombras) are the dark part of a picture... highlights are the birght part
pedro.m.reis said:What are the shadows? How can i improve-it?
Thanks
pedro.m.reis
Newbie but eager to learn
ok, i'll try another bunch of rolls this weekend, maybe i get better luck with the shadows/hilight things 
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