Tri-X push, push to the limit.

[gholen]

I've been developing TriX to ASA 3200 with some really good results, with D76 1+1, TMAX 1+4 and XTOL 1+1.
Results has been really good, however, I'm curious about pushing even more, as high up as 6400 ASA, or even more.

Any tip you can share, and pictures to show?

From Sweden with love.

 

[denizg7]

does anyone know where i can find the same images used on same film , but the difference in pushing them

thanks

 

[freax]

What times do you use with D-76 ? I don't like try-x pushed even to 800 ... !
Thanks.

 

[gholen]

Times for 1600 in D-76 1+1 was something around 15~minutes, temperature around 22 degrees Celsius.
For TMAX 1+4, time around 12 (i think) in 22 degrees Celsius. Inversions was i both cases two hard, two soft, at every two minutes.

 

[j.scooter]

does anyone know where i can find the same images used on same film , but the difference in pushing them

thanks

Not exactly what you asked for but maybe this will be useful.
http://filmdev.org/recipe/search?search=trix

 

[Merkin]

Using rodinal, you can apparently push tri-x to 12800, although the results are apparently only useful for scanning, they are apparently not conducive to wet printing at that much of a push. Run a search here for tri-x 12800 and you will find the relevant threads.

Tri-x in diafine exposed at 1600 is my full-time go-to. I wet print 10 inch square crops from them all day long, and they look fantastic. There is practically no increase in grain.

 

[jonasv]

I used to shoot it at 1600 developed in Microphen all the time, loved the results.

3200 was fine, 6400 useable, but I couldn't get many useful results at 12800 in Rodinal.

 

[mfogiel]

If you want to push seriously, simply dilute DD-X or Xtol (Xtol 1:3 and DD-X 1+9 should be fine), shoot a few test strips of Tri X between EI 250 and EI 16000, and then try to develop for half an hour and one hour at 24C, agitation every 3 minutes. You will see, how far you can get - I bet no more than EI 2000-4000.

 

[raytoei@gmail.com]

mfogiel: great advice.

 

[Roger Hicks]

Without wishing to sound rude or elderly, when I was 26 I used to think I got 'really good results' with massive pushes. Now, looking back on the shots I took at your age, 30+ years ago, I wish I'd exposed at least some of those pics more generously. You may find it interesting to go to as many exhibitions as possible to see what can be done.

This does NOT mean that massive pushes are always unwise, because so much depends on subject matter and style: I've quite a few pics I was really happy with, and still am. It's just a word of warning.

It's also worth asking yourself what these very high EIs mean. How are you metering?

For actual testing, mfogiel's advice is spot on.

Cheers,

R.

 

[andrewnelles]

I've found Rodinal 1:100 is the best for 3200asa. Stand developing. Grain isn't terrible and the contrast is totally reasonable. I have not tried, but I hear it can do 6400 quite well also.

Diafine is also a favorite of mine for 1600asa.

 

[semi-ambivalent]

I've found Rodinal 1:100 is the best for 3200asa. Stand developing. Grain isn't terrible and the contrast is totally reasonable. I have not tried, but I hear it can do 6400 quite well also.

Diafine is also a favorite of mine for 1600asa.

Not to quibble, but that should be 3200 EI, not ASA (which is ISO nowadays). For the OP, go here:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/rodinal/discuss/

There's a few people who have pushed Tri-X pretty high using Rodinal in variations of stand processing. I find most of the results average or less but some of it is fabulous. I like D-76 1:3 but Rodinal has some grays that are all to itself. Film rocks.

Good luck.

 

[ray_g]

Here's a good thread I remember, except many of Merciful's pics are no longer visible.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4441

I did get some pretty interesting results with his souping method for tri-x at 12800, stand developed in rodinal. Some Shadow detail may be lost, but nice mood to the images. And if you need the speed, it is not really difficult to do.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgphotos/410296120/in/set-72157631911519782/lightbox/

 

[rogue_designer]

I push to 3200 pretty regularly with HC110 1:100 using a semi-stand development. You get some highlight bloom, but the grain and contrast are controlled quite a bit. I expect if you have enough patience you could do the same for larger pushes, but you'll be looking at dev times longer than an hour and a half.

 

[Fawley]

I simply don't understand the rationale behind pushing trix to anything greater than 3200. At 6400 a grey card tone would not receive any appreciable exposure and would print as black no matter how much development you gave. So you are basically recording only bright tones and highlights in your image and then increasing contrast so much the highlights are blown. If you want contrast and grain there are other ways to do it.

 

[BardParker]

ZZ Top.

This was my first attempt at pushing Arista Premium 400 (Tri-X) to 1600. Developed in Arista Premium Developer at 1:9 for 12 minutes/ 22 degrees C. I am interested in learning more about extending the range of this great film. Olympus OM-4T, 100mm f/2.8.

[/url]
03060067.jpg by KentWebb, on Flickr[/IMG]

Regards,

Kent

 

[gholen]

TriX 400 pushed to 3200 ASA in D76.
Standard temperature, 30 seconds inversions the first minute, then three inversions every three minute for 18 minutes. Bigger size here: http://media.gholen.se/2012/11/Scan-121125-F3HP-1.jpg

 

[Photo_Smith]

I'd say most films can be pushed around two stops with minimum shadow detail loss and a slight increase in contrast.
Personally its not been a choice pictorially when pushing film, normally out of necessity due to the speed of subject movement or just poor lighting. If you have 400ISO film an ƒ2 lens and you have to record something pushing will get you printable results rather than thin results that you need to be a hero to print.
Make no mistake you won't get much more shadow detail, and you'll get higher contrast but you will at least get a result.
I tend to push faster films because they are normally more forgiving like Delta 3200 rather than Pan F which would be tougher because of the inherent contrast of slower emulsions.
Here is Tri-x I pushed back when i was 16

 

[retnull]

Great image!

 

[Fred R.]

Gholen, would you post some more 3200 tri-x photos, por favor.