Tri-x rating

[ReeRay]

It's been donkeys years since I last used this film but I've just bought 20 rolls of 135 at a good rate and I'm seeking guidance as to what rating to apply for normal daylight use. I use a commercial pro lab to dev my films and then I scan on a dedicated film scanner for output.

Would appreciate any input

Thanks

 

[filmfan]

I rate TX400 @200 in bright daylight outdoor shooting, then reduce developing time accordingly (effectively pulling it one stop).

 

[ReeRay]

By reducing the film what is the effect ref grain contrast etc

Thanks

 

[Vics]

I shoot it a 400 and try to place the darkest shadow in which I want some detail in Zone 2. Failing that (time pressures) I just try to err on the side of over-exposure. I develop at box speed, 400, and let the chips fall where they may.

 

[paulfish4570]

box speed and hc-110 dilution H. can't remember the d-76 formula and time for same results. i reckon a lot can depend on your lab's developer, temp and time. i reckon i'd go with what the lab recommends, and go up or down from there ...

 

[Brian Legge]

I prefer lower contrast images. I shoot Tri X at 200-360, depending on how contrasty light is on a given day. I am much more likely to go with 200 and pull than risk blown out highlights and loss of shadow detail.

For a little while I was going more zone system like but I didn't have the discipline to keep it up (it disrupted my shooting flow too much). It definitely was worth the experience though.

 

[f16sunshine]

I agree with Sam. In bright sun I tend to overexpose 1/2 - 1 stop and then hold things back in development. Using a combination of less time and or less agitation. Better shadows detail and less blown highlights. Grain does not seem to be effected much if at all.

 

[mfogiel]

If your scope is scanning, and you use a lab for standard processing, you should probably expose between EI 400 and 600, which is a slight underexposure, but will give you a thinner negative, which is better for your scanner. If you don't like the result, go to what I would reckon is the real speed of Tri X : EI 250

 

[Dana B.]

Rate at 320.

 

[ReeRay]

Quite a lot to think about here. The lab I use are prepared to push/pull so I guess my next action is to seek their recommendations as suggested.

You've all been very helpful and I thank you. Great Forum.

 

[jpa66]

I just rate Tri-X at 320 and develop as if it were shot at 400.

 

[Turtle]

You need to do your own tests. Unfortunately there is no short cut and other people's variables will almost certainly differ to yours.

I'd shoot a test roll, using various EIs and under varied lighting (making notes) and see what looks best coming back from the lab and under the scanner.

 

[Moriturii]

Expose at around 320 or 400 indoors, around 200 outdoors, develop the film for the lowest contrast scenes, even if you have outdoors (f16 sunny) shots and low contrast shots indoors. TriX has enough latitude and with variable contrast paper you'll get as good negs as you practically can get.

No need to carry around 3-4 cameras and only use one in a specific light-scenario and develop them perfectly. It's 35mm you are using, not large format single sheets.

 

[steveniphoto]

i expose at 800 and develop as if it were 400 (400/800 both have the same dev time in tmax dev i might add so...).

 

[George Bonanno]

Please, don't be an idiot. Shoot your Tri-X at box speed (400) and hand it over the counter. Don't give any instructions whatsoever. Then pickup the negs, scan and print.

Seriously, most of these guys can't even remember their last names never mind what film is in their cameras. Or for that matter what developer, time and temperature they used. It's mostly in their drunken afterhours imagination.

Case in point....

Is this what your after ?

Or this ?

Hopefully not.

 

[George Bonanno]

Absolutely !!!


If that shot was taken with a Fuji GW690II I take it all back.

George

 

[Photo_Smith]

You have to find your own settings. Speed of films will vary with developer type if they use TMax RT or similar then you get better speed than you will with a general purpose developer.

Shoot one roll at box speed, meter for emerging shadow detail then stop down 2 stops. Look at the negs if you don't have good enough shadow detail increase exposure in 1/3 stop increments.

You have to find out for your meter/camera/developer combination no one else can give you a definitive answer–there is no magic bullet.

 

[Roger Hicks]

A vast amount depends on how you meter, and what results you want. And, of course, on your developer.

True ISO of Tri-X in Ilford DD-X (my wife's favoured combination) is abut 650. With a spot meter, reading the darkest shadow in which she wants detail, she is perfectly happy with EI 500 (an extra 1/3 stop for better tonality). With the MP, she commonly sets the meter to 320. This may well give exactly the same exposure as the spot meter... See http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps expo neg.html

Cheers,

R.

 

[steveniphoto]

Please, don't be an idiot. Shoot your Tri-X at box speed (400) and hand it over the counter. Don't give any instructions whatsoever. Then pickup the negs, scan and print.

Seriously, most of these guys can't even remember their last names never mind what film is in their cameras. Or for that matter what developer, time and temperature they used. It's mostly in their drunken afterhours imagination.

Case in point....


Or this ?

Hopefully not.

what the **** are you talking about? i remember exactly how everything was shot and developed (i dev b/w myself). whats wrong with how my shot came out exactly?

 

[mfogiel]

I think, he intends to say, the tonality of your photograph could be better...