TriX at 1600 & 3200

Faintandfuzzy

Faintandfuzzy

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I'm off on some more street travels shortly and Id like to get some opinions on shooting 35mm TriX souped up to 1600 and 3200. Any examples? Any developer and timing suggestions? I normally use Neopan 1600 and Delta 3200....but I'd like to try something different. And yes...I love grain and contrast.
 
I used to like Neopan 1600. I had just gotten it "dialed in" to my taste at EI 800, when they discontinued it! I think there is a lot to be said for shooting Tri-X at 1600, and you will find lots of support for that here. In the meantime, why not look on flickr, there will be tons of examples. A strong argument for Tri-X is that it's cheaper than Delta 3200 (which is really only about a true ISO of around 1000 or 1200 or so anyway).

Also, I seem to recall that that Roger Hicks has told us that HP-5 is actually more pushable even than Tr-X. Maybe Roger will chime in about this.
 
Rob-F said:
I used to like Neopan 1600. I had just gotten it "dialed in" to my taste at EI 800, when they discontinued it! I think there is a lot to be said for shooting Tri-X at 1600, and you will find lots of support for that here. In the meantime, why not look on flickr, there will be tons of examples. A strong argument for Tri-X is that it's cheaper than Delta 3200 (which is really only about a true ISO of around 1000 or 1200 or so anyway).

Also, I seem to recall that that Roger Hicks has told us that HP-5 is actually more pushable even than Tr-X. Maybe Roger will chime in about this.
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Thanks Rob. I have a few hundred feet of HP5....and like it very much. I think I prefer the grain of TriX
 
Diafine. Proper shadow detail is achieved around 1000/1200. 3200 is possible if you feel it is ok to lose detail in the blacks.
 
tri-x at 1600 is really good. this pic was taken on my om1n with 28mm. day time gives great tones. indoors its grainy but you stated you like grain.never tried it at 3200.

im yet to have a scanner so my process it much slower


dateposted-public


not sure how to upload on here. it my fourth picture on flickr link (below)of woman with sunglasses
 
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There is an older article - I don't remember where I saw it - about pushing Tri-X to 3200 and beyond. The author tried a number of developers, including some really odd super-soup combinations. He determined that the easiest was Diafine done twice. I will try to find it tonight and provide the reference tomorrow. BTW, Diafine is a really easy developer and stores forever in full brown glass bottles. Used according to the mfg's direction, it gives good results at 1250/1600.
 
Ronald M said:
Diafine. Proper shadow detail is achieved around 1000/1200. 3200 is possible if you feel it is ok to lose detail in the blacks.
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Plus one on Diafine. I like it around 1000/1250 also but I go 7+4 as the times for part "A" and "B." Also know that I only do two inversions perminute to emphisize the compensating effect.

Cal
 
Lauffray said:
Do you intend to print your negatives ? In my opinion Xtol or Microphen are you best options
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Jerome,

With the Diafine times above and at 1000-1250 ISO I actually get mids and a compensating effect.

Microphen would be my second choice. Recently I have been using Microphen as my normal developer. I wanted a high energy developer, but realize that I also minimized agitation for midrange, IQ and a compensating effect. To get full development I had to extend times.

Of course this was to make negatives that have added density for wet printing. You ask a very good question.

Cal
 
Thanks everyone. I am a regular Micrphen user....but have never tried Daifine. I guess I'll run a few tests with each at 1600 and 3200....but the info here was a great starting point. Thanks for the samples.
 
Never tried Diafine, and not a lover of TriX.
I like HP5 @1600 in D76 and even D76 1+1. Xtol makes a good job, too.
Early in the '80s I used a lot of Microphen, but I was so young.

TMax 400 is not the same thing for details, if you push it.

I recently tried in the same session HP5 @3200 and TMax 3200, both in XTol: the latter is clearer but without character, the former has definitely more soul. Contrast & grain... well, you don't mind if you're pushing so hard.
 
I've still to dial this in but I just shot some Tri-X at 1600 and processed it so:
Adonal 1:50, 500 mL + 2 grams sodium sulfite
68 degrees
19 min.
Four inversions in ten seconds at 0, 5, 10 and 15 minutes.
Printing with a condenser enlarger grade 2 seems to work but 19 minutes doesn't look like enough. The sulfite chills the grain but I still get those Rodinal mid-tones, if you like those.

s-a
 
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