fidget
Lemon magnet
Running a first film through a new-to-you FSU camera may result in some frames showing faults or "artifacts". Once these are seen it can take a couple of other films to get to understand the problem enough to make a good attempt to fix it. I often wish that I had taken a particular picture on my first film, which may have given better clues to a light leak or shutter problem or even to eliminate one or the other as being faulty :bang: .
Here are a few of the exposures that you might include in a first film to check for problems in the body.
We've discussed this in the past but not got round to posting some ideas.
Naturally, you would only load up a film if all other tests show no problems, wouldn't you?
Frame number:
1. a card showing which camera is in use, or a pic in a mirror. It may work and it's surprising how easy it is to forget which camera it came from.
2 to 4. Blank frames exposed and wound on with the lens covered. Each frame left in the camera for at least 30 mins and the camera left in good light and turned to get light on all sides. (lightly toasted all over). The idea is to check for leaks through the body. More than one frame used as leaks can be where the film is on the spool at either side of the film gate.
5. Like above only not left in light, exposed with lens covered and wound on quickly, allows a buffer to the last test and may indicate a bad leak if effected.
6. Similar to above, an exposure made with the lens cap on, then the film wound on whilst the lens uncovered, the lens aperture wide open and pointing at a bright light source, (but not the sun, as this can burn the curtains). This is to look for leaks between the curtain laths as it is wound on.
7. Still looking for leaks, leave the camera cocked on this frame, pointing at a fairly bright scene, for a few minutes. Then fire shutter with lens covered. Leave again with lens uncovered, for same time before winding on. Looking for leaks through pin holes in 1st curtain and then the 2nd curtain. (you could use a separate frame for each if you wish).
8 & 9. Now looking for shutter related problems, so time to meter the light and set an appropriate aperture for a plain bright scene, say a featureless sky or wall, large piece of paper etc, at the fastest speed. Take a shot of the scene, then the same again with the camera inverted. This will show exposure variations across the frame, the upside down shot will confirm this or show if it was the scene which varied.
10 & 11, Sounds like a drag, but more of the above, next speed maybe....some of these faults can be intermittent, so a repeat is not undue.. Do these pairs for any other speeds you wish....
From here to the end of the film, check for lens issues, close focus open aperture and so on.....lens testing is much more demanding, of course.
From the results of these elementary tests, you could see that all is well or that you have a problem. The presence of the problem on some images but not on others can be valuable clues as to the source of the fault. You did make a note of what each exposure was didn't you?
If you have chosen you FSU camera in a particularly enlightened way, you could have multiple problems. The variation of the tests here will help to indicate where to look for fault fixes.
Vary the tests to suit conditions etc, just remember to identify the film and list the test conditions for each frame.
I'm sure that we all have our favourite tests to run through a "new" FSU camera, can you suggest other useful tests for bodies?
regards, Dave.....
Here are a few of the exposures that you might include in a first film to check for problems in the body.
We've discussed this in the past but not got round to posting some ideas.
Naturally, you would only load up a film if all other tests show no problems, wouldn't you?
Frame number:
1. a card showing which camera is in use, or a pic in a mirror. It may work and it's surprising how easy it is to forget which camera it came from.
2 to 4. Blank frames exposed and wound on with the lens covered. Each frame left in the camera for at least 30 mins and the camera left in good light and turned to get light on all sides. (lightly toasted all over). The idea is to check for leaks through the body. More than one frame used as leaks can be where the film is on the spool at either side of the film gate.
5. Like above only not left in light, exposed with lens covered and wound on quickly, allows a buffer to the last test and may indicate a bad leak if effected.
6. Similar to above, an exposure made with the lens cap on, then the film wound on whilst the lens uncovered, the lens aperture wide open and pointing at a bright light source, (but not the sun, as this can burn the curtains). This is to look for leaks between the curtain laths as it is wound on.
7. Still looking for leaks, leave the camera cocked on this frame, pointing at a fairly bright scene, for a few minutes. Then fire shutter with lens covered. Leave again with lens uncovered, for same time before winding on. Looking for leaks through pin holes in 1st curtain and then the 2nd curtain. (you could use a separate frame for each if you wish).
8 & 9. Now looking for shutter related problems, so time to meter the light and set an appropriate aperture for a plain bright scene, say a featureless sky or wall, large piece of paper etc, at the fastest speed. Take a shot of the scene, then the same again with the camera inverted. This will show exposure variations across the frame, the upside down shot will confirm this or show if it was the scene which varied.
10 & 11, Sounds like a drag, but more of the above, next speed maybe....some of these faults can be intermittent, so a repeat is not undue.. Do these pairs for any other speeds you wish....
From here to the end of the film, check for lens issues, close focus open aperture and so on.....lens testing is much more demanding, of course.
From the results of these elementary tests, you could see that all is well or that you have a problem. The presence of the problem on some images but not on others can be valuable clues as to the source of the fault. You did make a note of what each exposure was didn't you?
If you have chosen you FSU camera in a particularly enlightened way, you could have multiple problems. The variation of the tests here will help to indicate where to look for fault fixes.
Vary the tests to suit conditions etc, just remember to identify the film and list the test conditions for each frame.
I'm sure that we all have our favourite tests to run through a "new" FSU camera, can you suggest other useful tests for bodies?
regards, Dave.....
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I just take test roll pictures as usual.
Out of about 2000 pictures (according to my scanner), I've lost shots because of lightleaks and other shutter problems exactly 24 frames from 3 problem cameras (out of many others), ironically, none of the 3 is an FSU camera
Edit: Wrong punctuations conveys different meanings... corrected above.
Out of about 2000 pictures (according to my scanner), I've lost shots because of lightleaks and other shutter problems exactly 24 frames from 3 problem cameras (out of many others), ironically, none of the 3 is an FSU camera
Edit: Wrong punctuations conveys different meanings... corrected above.
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fidget
Lemon magnet
Hi Will, do you not have an FSU camera?!?
Just think of what you are missing! :bang:
I prescribe a FED 2 and a couple of Zorkis. Good luck
Just think of what you are missing! :bang:
I prescribe a FED 2 and a couple of Zorkis. Good luck
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Ah, I see the error in my previous post that leads you to think that I only have 3 non-FSU cameras
I have a black Kiev 4A with 3 lenses, and a Fed 2 with Fed 50/3.5 colapsible.
Love FSU optics
I have a black Kiev 4A with 3 lenses, and a Fed 2 with Fed 50/3.5 colapsible.
Love FSU optics
acheyj
Well-known
Well done. I have a routine to test speed/ aperture progression , focus rf versus scale etc. Your aproach gave me some new ideas.
Thanks
ron
Thanks
ron
bcostin
Well-known
Thanks, this will make a good checklist for the next camera I try out. I've been doing a few kitchen table repairs lately and as I troubleshoot various problems I've realized how much EXIF data has spoiled me. I usually manage to write the camera, lens, and the end date with a Sharpie on the exposed portion of the film leader, but I'm not very good at keeping exposure notes.