RussPhoto
Member
Hello everyone!
Any recommendation on using coated modern filters with uncoated Leitz Summar 50mm to reduce flare? My copy of Summar is uncoated. What do you think about B+W Filters MASTER CLEAR MRC NANO? These type of filters are coated on both sides of the filter glass. Will it do the trick? I know I have to use the lens shade
Thank you!
Any recommendation on using coated modern filters with uncoated Leitz Summar 50mm to reduce flare? My copy of Summar is uncoated. What do you think about B+W Filters MASTER CLEAR MRC NANO? These type of filters are coated on both sides of the filter glass. Will it do the trick? I know I have to use the lens shade
Thank you!
Rayt
Nonplayer Character
I had an uncoated Summar that suffered from veiling flare. Though multi coating on a filter will help the filter but will do nothing about the lens. I personally will use a filter to protect the soft glass but it will not cut down flare inherent in the lens.
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B&W filters are first rate.
With the Summar: my copy had a lot of flare due to loss of paint on the sides of the glass elements, producing internal reflections. I blackened the sides of the inner groups, greatly reduced flare. Also examine the inner surfaces for haze. With as old as the Summar is, "Bloom" (tarnish) on the glass acts as a natural coating.
With the Summar: my copy had a lot of flare due to loss of paint on the sides of the glass elements, producing internal reflections. I blackened the sides of the inner groups, greatly reduced flare. Also examine the inner surfaces for haze. With as old as the Summar is, "Bloom" (tarnish) on the glass acts as a natural coating.
Nitroplait
Well-known
A filter adds two additional glass-to-air surfaces. You will see no improvement, at best, more likely some degree of degradation - although not much because it is a good filter.
RussPhoto
Member
Brian, I actually did some partial outer touch ups with a black paint and now it looks perfect (see attached) however when I look through the glass I still can see some paint loss and I don't understand where is it? Looks like it's somewhere inside. I've seen it on many Summar lenses. Any idea how to get there?B&W filters are first rate.
With the Summar: my copy had a lot of flare due to loss of paint on the sides of the glass elements, producing internal reflections. I blackened the sides of the inner groups, greatly reduced flare. Also examine the inner surfaces for haze. With as old as the Summar is, "Bloom" (tarnish) on the glass acts as a natural coating.
Attachments
RussPhoto
Member
But that one is a special one - nano!A filter adds two additional glass-to-air surfaces. You will see no improvement, at best, more likely some degree of degradation - although not much because it is a good filter.
neal3k
Well-known
I protect my Summar from direct sunlight with my always-ready sun shade; my baseball cap.
RussPhoto
Member
Baseball cap as a shade seems like a good solution!👍Thanks!I protect my Summar from direct sunlight with my always-ready sun shade; my baseball cap.
I'll take a look at my not-so-good Summar, if the glass comes out of the fixture. It looks like the paint loss is between the glass and the metal of the fixture.Brian, I actually did some partial outer touch ups with a black paint and now it looks perfect (see attached) however when I look through the glass I still can see some paint loss and I don't understand where is it? Looks like it's somewhere inside. I've seen it on many Summar lenses. Any idea how to get there?
I have the Walz Filter for my Summar.
I could not find a Baseball Cap marked "Summar", but the hood is. I would not know which baseball cap to wear with the lens, but I do know what hood to use.
RussPhoto
Member
I think that was an idea using baseball cap as a hood shade neal3k mentioned about (see attached). Image is not mine, I downloaded it from internet, some photographers really practise this method.😃I'll take a look at my not-so-good Summar, if the glass comes out of the fixture. It looks like the paint loss is between the glass and the metal of the fixture.
I have the Walz Filter for my Summar.
I could not find a Baseball Cap marked "Summar", but the hood is. I would not know which baseball cap to wear with the lens, but I do know what hood to use.
Attachments
TenEleven
Well-known
Also when people say flare they often mean two discrete things. I had a quick dig around my photos and found two examples. There are not interesting photos, but highlight the concept well.
This is flare that happens when unwanted light hits the lens obliquely. It introduces reflection artifacts and usually lowers the overall scene contrast drastically as seen here. It happens both with uncoated and coated optics. With uncoated optics the outcome is of course much more severe, as seen here. The correct counter-measure for this is shielding the lens with a hood, with your hand, or anything else on hand.

This is flare (although, I usually call it bloom or glare) that can happen with older lenses where the highlights bleed out into the shadows due to under-corrected aberrations lowering scene contrast in that area although not as severely as above. This happens with lenses that are both coated and un-coated. In my experience coating does not move the needle much in this case. Stopping down helps. Unless the lens is cloudy or scratched - in that case there is not much that can be done.

This is flare that happens when unwanted light hits the lens obliquely. It introduces reflection artifacts and usually lowers the overall scene contrast drastically as seen here. It happens both with uncoated and coated optics. With uncoated optics the outcome is of course much more severe, as seen here. The correct counter-measure for this is shielding the lens with a hood, with your hand, or anything else on hand.

This is flare (although, I usually call it bloom or glare) that can happen with older lenses where the highlights bleed out into the shadows due to under-corrected aberrations lowering scene contrast in that area although not as severely as above. This happens with lenses that are both coated and un-coated. In my experience coating does not move the needle much in this case. Stopping down helps. Unless the lens is cloudy or scratched - in that case there is not much that can be done.

TenEleven
Well-known
I have had that happen when I applied new black paint over the old degraded one.Brian, I actually did some partial outer touch ups with a black paint and now it looks perfect (see attached) however when I look through the glass I still can see some paint loss and I don't understand where is it? Looks like it's somewhere inside. I've seen it on many Summar lenses. Any idea how to get there?
My theory is that the old paint has bubbled up underneath and when I (or you) apply a new layer we're not doing much because the problem is underneath. Sadly the only solution I have found is to completely strip the old paint and do it over.
peterm1
Veteran
I agree that the coated filter will do nothing to change the characteristics of the lens. Assuming the actual lens elements to be clean and in good condition (in which case no work is needed on them) I would strongly recommend using an appropriate hood which should help to some extent - at least in some situations. Only problem is they are hard to find and the Leitz ones have a clamp fit (not a screw fit). But I do own an old after-market "Walz" E34mm screw on hood in E34 thread I believe which matches the thread on the lens. I bought it years ago intending to one day buy a Summar but when they attracted a cult following and the prices escalated alarmingly I put it on the back burner. One day perhaps! BTW you may have to also use a method often used by people with such uncoated lenses - use your hand to shade the lens and block any lateral rays from the periphery. Also if seeking a hood you may find better success doing what I have sometimes done - find a cheap Chinese metal hood in say 36mm or 39mm diameter and see if you can find a stepping ring to go with it. The stepping ring would need to be 34mm-36mm or 34mm to 39mm respectively. Another alternative is to find a Leica FICUS hood - a telescoping hood that is designed for use on 5mm/90mm and 135mm lenses. These however have a 36mm diameter so the base would need to be packed suitably to convert it to 34mm.
RussPhoto
Member
Oh, I see it now... Looks like "Schneideritis" on old LF Schneider-Kreuznach lenses, no affect on image quality except flare. I'd probably avoid to pill off that paint myself, can do something wrong. Thanks!I have had that happen when I applied new black paint over the old degraded one.
My theory is that the old paint has bubbled up underneath and when I (or you) apply a new layer we're not doing much because the problem is underneath. Sadly the only solution I have found is to completely strip the old paint and do it over.
RussPhoto
Member
Second image, this is what exactly I meant... When using the lens on Leica monochrom body with deep red filter flare is avoidable however with color it doesn't work that way. Thanks!Also when people say flare they often mean two discrete things. I had a quick dig around my photos and found two examples. There are not interesting photos, but highlight the concept well.
This is flare that happens when unwanted light hits the lens obliquely. It introduces reflection artifacts and usually lowers the overall scene contrast drastically as seen here. It happens both with uncoated and coated optics. With uncoated optics the outcome is of course much more severe, as seen here. The correct counter-measure for this is shielding the lens with a hood, with your hand, or anything else on hand.
View attachment 4861767
This is flare (although, I usually call it bloom or glare) that can happen with older lenses where the highlights bleed out into the shadows due to under-corrected aberrations lowering scene contrast in that area although not as severely as above. This happens with lenses that are both coated and un-coated. In my experience coating does not move the needle much in this case. Stopping down helps. Unless the lens is cloudy or scratched - in that case there is not much that can be done.
View attachment 4861765
RussPhoto
Member
I used my Summar with Leica FOOKH A36 that I'm using with my LTM Summaron 35 also and it works fine, no light fall. Thanks!I agree that the coated filter will do nothing to change the characteristics of the lens. Assuming the actual lens elements to be clean and in good condition (in which case no work is needed on them) I would strongly recommend using an appropriate hood which should help to some extent - at least in some situations. Only problem is they are hard to find and the Leitz ones have a clamp fit (not a screw fit). But I do own an old after-market "Walz" E34mm screw on hood in E34 thread I believe which matches the thread on the lens. I bought it years ago intending to one day buy a Summar but when they attracted a cult following and the prices escalated alarmingly I put it on the back burner. One day perhaps! BTW you may have to also use a method often used by people with such uncoated lenses - use your hand to shade the lens and block any lateral rays from the periphery. Also if seeking a hood you may find better success doing what I have sometimes done - find a cheap Chinese metal hood in say 36mm or 39mm diameter and see if you can find a stepping ring to go with it. The stepping ring would need to be 34mm-36mm or 34mm to 39mm respectively. Another alternative is to find a Leica FICUS hood - a telescoping hood that is designed for use on 5mm/90mm and 135mm lenses. These however have a 36mm diameter so the base would need to be packed suitably to convert it to 34mm.
Erik van Straten
Veteran
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