UV/IR filter use & coding for 15mm Heliar

steve bloom

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Having just received a new Voightlander 15mm F4.5 Heliar lens to use on my Leica M8.2 I wanted to ask about the needs for the UV/IR series filters and 6-bit coding on the lens. I have done some cursory outdoors' test images and they seem to be excellent,but when test fired at a light tan-colored building side I can see a hint of edge-light falloff, and assume that's where the coding come in...Thanks for your time and any advice.....
 
I've coded mine as a pre-aspheric 21mm with a single black bar on the six spot of the six bar coding array and it works fine. The B+W UV/IR filters have worked fine as well.
 
Do you have the M mount or LTM one?

I recently got a LTM 15 4.5 and bought a 28/90 adapter with 6bit coding holes from Jieying on eBay. Coded it as a WATE which is efficient. The LTM 15mm has no filter thread but a 39mm filter dropped upside-down in the lens hood will work perfectly.
 
I use a B&W (brand) UV/IR Cut on my CV 15/4.5, and code it as the WATE, most often selecting the 16mm option but sometimes I get in a hurry and shoot at the default which is for the 18mm. Both seem equally clean and neutral to my eyes.
The corrections for all three WATE settings are the same. Only the focal length changes with the menu choice.
 
Very usefull information. I also have the 15mm F:4,5 LTM.

If you code as a WATE does it matter if you use a 28/70mm adapter or 35/135mm?
(I think i read somewhere that choosing the framelines does influence the camera/coding.)
 
Yes, choosing the proper framelines does influence the coding. I believe the 28/90 adapter is the correct one for the M8.
 
i'm using the pre-asph 21mm setting and it works fine, much more practical since you don't have to fiddle with the focal length settings. but in really difficult lightning there can be some magenta in the corners

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I just ran with it as is because coding sometimes worked and sometimes didn't... I think when it did I had selected 16mm WATE


i'm using the pre-asph 21mm setting and it works fine, much more practical since you don't have to fiddle with the focal length settings. but in really difficult lightning there can be some magenta in the corners

Cornerfix sorts this out (maybe you knew this and forgot to mention...), make sure you create a proper lens profile as shown in the application. Works great under most situations.
 
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The corrections for all three WATE settings are the same. Only the focal length changes with the menu choice.

Jaap, I do not believe that to be true, at least not for the M8. My experience is that with each step up in focal length, the amount of cyan drift reduction gets less. I achieve the best results with the 16mm setting, getting rid of alomst all cyan drift (using a 15/4.5 SWH, that is). Switching to 18mm leaves more cyan in the corners, and with 21mm cyan drift remains quite severe. I have not yet observed whether vignetting correction changes with the different focal length settings.
 
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