BobYIL
Well-known
Robert, just an inquiry: While developing Adox low speed films, did you notice any difference between the Neofin Blau and the Beutler? I mean is it really worth to not mix our own Beutler and use Neofin Blau? Thanks.
Regards,
Bob
Very Basic Film Question
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Robert, just an inquiry: While developing Adox low speed films, did you notice any difference between the Neofin Blau and the Beutler? I mean is it really worth to not mix our own Beutler and use Neofin Blau? Thanks.
Regards,
Bob
Bingley
Veteran
I think Rodinal 1:50 gives good results with TMax 400 and Tri-X shot at box speed. If I'm shooting film at a higher iso, though, I'll switch to another developer; haven't had such good results w/ Rodinal and faster speeds than 400. I like Tri-X at 800 in Diafine. Here's a sample of TMax 400 at box speed, Rodinal 1:50, 10 mins. @ 20C:
In your dreams by bingley0522, on Flickr
Fotohuis
Well-known
Neofin Blau/Blue is changed during the years. I think Tetenal is using pyro-catechine in it now.
These type of developers from the end 20's, like Amaloco AM20, later AM50 (also based on pyro-catechine), but non staining are very suitable for the slow speed Adox/Efke films. But Beutler (based on Metol) is very easy to make (or buy).
Here an example of AM50 1+29 5:00 minutes at 20C with the discontinued Rollei PAN 25, a modified OrWo NP15 emulsion. M7+Summicron 2,0/50mm.
amyukie
Member
Nice pictures!!! I like the Neopan1600 and the last picture 😀
I just developed my first 400ISO film using Rodinal 1:50 for 13 minutes. It's hanging for drying now. The process was not complicated at all, I enjoyed every step of it.
Btw, how many times (average) one can reuse the stop bath and fixer? I don't wanna risk my rolls.
I just developed my first 400ISO film using Rodinal 1:50 for 13 minutes. It's hanging for drying now. The process was not complicated at all, I enjoyed every step of it.
Btw, how many times (average) one can reuse the stop bath and fixer? I don't wanna risk my rolls.
Roscoe
Established
fotohuis, great tones in that one. May I ask what you use for scans and maybe workflow? I'm only using a plustek 7400, but would love to achieve posts that are as sharp and "3D" like. I understand lens and film/dev combo makes a big difference, but we are after all viewing these on a digital monitor and this obviously makes a big difference.
I can't speak of a certain developer/film process and acutance or sharpness and show examples from a basic flatbed that is unable to prove this...?
I can't speak of a certain developer/film process and acutance or sharpness and show examples from a basic flatbed that is unable to prove this...?
Fotohuis
Well-known
Stopbath: It normally has an indicator. It's Yellow and goes to Blue when the pH is going over 5,5. Then it's finished. It's not critical.
Fixer: 1+4 for film takes out the Silver residue. When the Silver ions Ag+ are going over 2g/ltr. (saturation of the fixer) you should toss it out. You can check this by a 10% KI (PotassiumIodide) solution. 10ml fix under test + 5 drops KI when it stays milkey you are over the limit. When it clears up, it's still good. Some manufacturers are selling it under fixer test solution.
Scan: Some 3170 Epson, some V500 Epson scan. I normally foto print on real photo paper in Split Grade, PE/RC and the best on Fiber/Baryta. But during the scan process you are loosing already a lot of information. Real dark Black is not possible.
Here a scan from a fiber print (18x24cm) made from Rollei Retro 400S (6x7cm roll film) D74 1+15 5:15 minutes at 20C printed on Fomabrom Variant 111.
Scan V500.
What you see is only 80% of the fiber photo print.
BobYIL
Well-known
Here's a safe and secure way for you, quite simple too. (I use it since the '60s).
Stopbath: Plain water.. just fill your tank after pouring out the developer, agitate and discard. Cost nothing, no need to store anything.
Fixer: Plain Hypo (Sodium Thiosulphate Pentahydrate, no need for the unhydrate type) looks like transparent rice crystals, cheap, about $5 per kilo. Mix with water, use 250gr per liter of solution or 125 gr (4 oz) for 500cc., depending on the size of your tank. Fix up to 12 rolls in a liter, 6 rolls in 500cc however try fix all your rolls within the same day, then discard. Keeping crystals is no issue, keeping solutions is big issue. Plain hypo solution is so cheap to not worth to keep and face with exhaustion issues...
Following the fixer wash your film and in the last wash a couple drops of Photo-flo.. I do not use any other chemicals following the developer.
amyukie
Member
Thanks BobYil, I learned new things today. I'll try water bath and Plain hypo after I finish my current chemicals.
I just developed my second film with Rodinal 1:100 1-hour stand development. I think I am in love with the process.
Will post pictures soon after I get my scanner. It still on the road from Amazon warehouse.
I just developed my second film with Rodinal 1:100 1-hour stand development. I think I am in love with the process.
Will post pictures soon after I get my scanner. It still on the road from Amazon warehouse.
ColSebastianMoran
( IRL Richard Karash )
For those new to Rodinal, please get and read the Material Safety Data Sheet.
Key points: a splash of the concentrate in the eye would produce severe injury. And, any skin contact would be pretty rough as well. Diluted it's not as bad, but the concentrate is dangerous. I use gloves, glasses, and extreme care. Oh... And, you want this out of reach or locked away from kids.
Key points: a splash of the concentrate in the eye would produce severe injury. And, any skin contact would be pretty rough as well. Diluted it's not as bad, but the concentrate is dangerous. I use gloves, glasses, and extreme care. Oh... And, you want this out of reach or locked away from kids.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Broken record
Broken record
Modern films and papers contain a lot of silver iodide. Plain (sodium) thiosulfate does not effectively fix iodides. If you use plain hypo with modern products you are not fixing as well as you can. Use rapid (ammonium) thiosulfate fixers.
Marty
Broken record
Modern films and papers contain a lot of silver iodide. Plain (sodium) thiosulfate does not effectively fix iodides. If you use plain hypo with modern products you are not fixing as well as you can. Use rapid (ammonium) thiosulfate fixers.
Marty
amyukie
Member
Wow, I did't use gloves for my past 2 developments. I thought the worst thing can happen was my hands smell like rotten eggs. But, thanks for telling, I'll use them next time!
BobYIL
Well-known
Sodium- or ammonium thiosulphate function the same, the only difference is time of fixing. I have been using it in the HP3 days as well as following the introduction of the HP5 up until today, also for paper. Additives are for the longevity of the fixer to reuse, if you do not plan to reuse then use plain... The key for archival processing lies in the washing, i.e. to get rid of the final traces of thiosulphate effectively.
Another advantage of the plain hypo is the much greater margin of error. With the ammonium- if the manufacturer suggests 60 seconds of fixing then the film or print has to be pulled in 60 seconds..
"Ansel Adams gives the following formula for a plain hypo bath
warm water 750 ml
Sodium thiosulfate 250 g
Water to make 1 l
Fixing time is 5 to 10 minutes"
n5jrn
Well-known
Doesn't fixer simply wash away the unreduced silver halides? If so, why should it be so time-critical? Once the silver halides are washed away, that's it: you can't get less than nothing. Everything I've read has said that it's the developer time that's the critical one (which makes sense, as long as the developer is present, the silver grains will continue to grow).
Obviously, you wouldn't want to leave film or prints in fixer overnight, but everything I've read, plus what I've read about the chemistry of film, suggests that fixing for, say, two minutes instead of one is basically harmless.
BobYIL
Well-known
AFAK, the actual reaction is far more complex than the undeveloped silver turning into silver disodium or silver diammonium so that it will start dissolving in water. This process, however, needs to be concluded in appropriate time, i.e. if it's let to react too long then the fixer following the conversion of all "undeveloped" silver starts converting "developed" silver this time. Leave an unimportant negative long enough in the fixer to see how the highlight details will start to deteriorate 😡.. With the rapid fixers (ammonium- based) especially this process should be handled with more precision.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Technically not bad at all, only you have a lack of contrast. Because you have choosen the stand type development it's more difficult to adapt from here.
Using a regular 1+50 dilution and an exact developing time you can change the Contrast Index of the film much more easier in the right direction.
Using a regular 1+50 dilution and an exact developing time you can change the Contrast Index of the film much more easier in the right direction.
amyukie
Member
Fotohuis
Well-known
To keep the grain under control you need only a little bit agitation with Rodinal. Too much agitation will lead to extra big grain when using Rodinal. And because it's containing para-Amino Phenol you won't have Bromide drag problems.
First 30S continuous, then every 30S 1x (slowly) is perfectly for Rodinal.
To reach the right Contrast Index maybe you have to develop one minute more.
First 30S continuous, then every 30S 1x (slowly) is perfectly for Rodinal.
To reach the right Contrast Index maybe you have to develop one minute more.
BobYIL
Well-known
Bravo! First attempt and you are into stand-development!.. the results are more than OK.. What film, HP5+ or Arista? I am not so sure about the contrast as deciding on them on screen could be misleading. (You can increase the contrast if you like by more frequent agitation..)
😀 To start with stand-development you are seeking trouble 😀 Anyway, I hope you do the experimenting for regular speed and push developments before starting to shoot "seriously". Do not push your film unless it's absolutely necessary, enjoy the full latitude and tonality of your films. For standard type development better not use Rodinal for 400 ISO films if excess grain is not what you intend.
😀 To start with stand-development you are seeking trouble 😀 Anyway, I hope you do the experimenting for regular speed and push developments before starting to shoot "seriously". Do not push your film unless it's absolutely necessary, enjoy the full latitude and tonality of your films. For standard type development better not use Rodinal for 400 ISO films if excess grain is not what you intend.
NLewis
Established
I would suggest HC-110, especially for your first efforts.
It is a liquid, so it is much easier to work with than a powder.
It is a nice allround developer, not a "niche" developer for special effects.
It is cheap and can be used one-shot, especially at higher dilutions.
If you want exaggerated grain, I would suggest pushing two stops. In general, though, the rule for BW film is to err on the side of overexposure. I think there is too much pushing of film these days.
For fixer, I would suggest Ilford Hypam. It is also cheap and easy to work with. However, the best thing is that, as a non-hardening fixer, both fix times and wash times are greatly accelerated. You can fill/agitate/drain three times and that's it for washing. Modern films don't require hardeners. Look at the Hypam datasheet from Ilford.
It is a liquid, so it is much easier to work with than a powder.
It is a nice allround developer, not a "niche" developer for special effects.
It is cheap and can be used one-shot, especially at higher dilutions.
If you want exaggerated grain, I would suggest pushing two stops. In general, though, the rule for BW film is to err on the side of overexposure. I think there is too much pushing of film these days.
For fixer, I would suggest Ilford Hypam. It is also cheap and easy to work with. However, the best thing is that, as a non-hardening fixer, both fix times and wash times are greatly accelerated. You can fill/agitate/drain three times and that's it for washing. Modern films don't require hardeners. Look at the Hypam datasheet from Ilford.
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