Vintage Nikon F-mount lenses

Vintage is relative I guess 🙂

Unmodified pre-Ai lenses will work on the Nikon Df. Only ones I have had trouble with on the Df are some very early 10.5cm f2.5 P and 5cm f2 S (1959-60). The rear lip of the barrel extends too far over the mount. For most of the other Nikon DSLRs, the rear of the aperture ring of pre-Ai lenses either has to be machined off, or the aperture ring itself replaced using AI-modification kit that Nikon used to sell.

A couple of preset Nikkors from way back, the Nikon 10.5cm f4 T, and the 5.5cm f3.5 micro-Nikkor, can go on any digital Nikon.
 
maryland_fotos said:
... Only ones I have had trouble with on the Df are some very early 10.5cm f2.5 P and 5cm f2 S (1959-60). The rear lip of the barrel extends too far over the mount. ...
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This will be the case for all of the original batches of F-mount lenses. These are often referred to as "tick mark" lenses for their f/stop markings. These lenses have a deep overhang (~3mm) on the f/stop ring that functions as a dust/dirt shield. Nikon reduced the depth of this overhand in later lenses to ~1.5mm. All of these lenses, if unmodified, will fail to mount on all metered Nikons other than the F and F2 Photomics. They won't fit Nikkormat FT, FTn, FT2, FT3, EL, ELW, EL2, and any of the Ai bodies that will accept other non-Ai lenses.

There are also a few pre-Ai lenses that have issues on many bodies, even when Ai-converted by Nikon. These include the 28mm f/3.5 from the mid-60s and early the 35mm f/1.4.

Nikon used to publish a list by serial number of these problem lenses indicating which were problems on which bodies. I would presume that they publish one for the Df.
 
Erik van Straten said:
Nikkormat FTn, Nikkor-N Auto 24mm f/2.8, ORWO 21 DIN.

Erik.

8490219732_9cc33dddf1_c.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow. World-class, really!
 
For those who want to use a pre Ai lens on a modern Nikon that only supports AI ones I can assure you that it is not a difficult mod to make using simple hand tools.

The Nikon Ai conversion kits are almost impossible to find even for the more common lenses but you should not let that stop you. The process of making the conversion involves nothing more than the ability to remove the rear mounting plate and aperture ring (usually held with several small screws), mark out where the cut has to be made on the aperture ring then execute the cut using needle files or a dremel tool.

Reassembly is the hardest bit - a little fiddly but still relatively easy once you have done a couple of lenses. (The trick for most lenses is to make sure that the lens is focused to its nearest focusing point). In any event if you Google it you will find several good guides that explain where and how to make the cuts etc. The critical thing - the thing that conveys the aperture mechanically is the starting point of the notch cut in the lens aperture ring. Each conversion should take no more than say 50 minutes from go to whoa for a beginner with moderate tool skills.
 
I love the quality of Nikon MF lenses . These days they get more use on my XE2 and Nikon FM than my rather neglected D700.
24mm f2.8 Ai- this is used with Tilt/shift adapter on the XE2 to good effect
35mm 3.5 PC Nikkor- first model. Small lens really used only on the FM. Pretty sharp with good contrast
50mm f1.4 pre Ai - inherited with the 35mm. This has loads of fine scratches on the front element. Soft focus effect , so rarely used.
55mm f2.8 Micro-Nikkor - zero distortion and sharp edge to edge wide open.
 
peterm1 said:
... The process of making the conversion involves nothing more than the ability to remove the rear mounting plate and aperture ring (usually held with several small screws), ...
Click to expand...

... which are themselves sealed witha Lock-Tite like material. It is often necessary to use Acetone to loosen the sealant. Also note that the older screws are flat-blade, the newer screws are not Phillips, but are JIS cross-point screws. The flat-bade screws are also make to a JIS spec which uses a narrower slot, relative to the screw head diameter, than the US convention. You need to make sure your screw drivers fit well in order to deal with the necessary torque.

The "ancient" Nikkors are quite different. With those you remove a small screw on the side of the f/stop ring and then simply twist the f/stop ring to unscrew it off the back of the lens. I recommend that you first screw it on further while counting the turns so that you can use this info when reinstalling the modified ring. You will also find that the screw that was removed to allow the f/stop ring to be removed is the connection to the iris mechinism. You will need to do a little fishing to realign the internal slotted bar so that the screw protrudes into the slot when reassembled.

When I converted one of these, I would scribe a line on the inside edge of the f/stop ring even with the face of the mount before removing the ring. That way I could use the line as a reference for how much I needed to mill off.
 
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